Trouble starting, starter "seizes"

[MB2]

Yes, I searched.

I have a '91 GS500 and since I bought it I've had trouble with starting. At first I traced the problem to the battery, no big deal, bought a new battery and she's was starting fine. Slowly the no start issue would happen on my first attempt to start, but for the most part the second or third try she would turn over. But it didn't take too long for me to occasionally end up push starting the bike because the bike wouldn't turn over. Now the no start is more frequent (last couple times I've tried to start the bike) and turning her over isn't as easy (had to run down my steep hill 3-4 times and dropping from 2nd to get her to turn...the first several tries the rear tire would lock up and I'd just slide). I changed the oil 1000 miles ago, and the battery has been on a tender recently and is doing fine (battery is 4 months old with almost daily riding)

When this was first a problem I noticed sometimes if I righted the bike so it was straight up she would turn over. Now it doesn't do anything.

I always start the bike on the kick stand in neutral with the choke all the way open.

What happens is I push the start button and I get a click, it seems to me as if the starter is getting stuck as when I let off the start button you can hear a release of pressure. The light dims a little but it always did that so I was never concerned. My assumption is the bike used to be a race bike as many items are safety wired on, and the wiring is a complete hack-job. The brake light also stopped working (light is on, bulb is good, I can hear the switch engaging...but the rear light doesn't get brighter) not too long ago. I already know the bike runs rich, and the carbs need tuning for my Yoshimura exhaust (anyone have tips on what to set it at with stock airbox by the way?). I cleaned the carbs pretty good a few months ago...but recently it seems my floats are getting stuck as sometimes when I idle at a light with the clutch in my rpms stay around 3k, and when I park the bike occasionally I'll find gas on the ground leaking out the air box.

Is it possible the start is toast? Or maybe a short, or the starter needs a cleaning? Or something else I'm overlooking?

~Scott

[jeremy_nash]

I've had similar starting issues on mine when my battery was failing. once you get it started, use a voltmeter and check the voltage to be sure the battery is being recharged

[pandymai]

i would check the starter. honestly, i dont know how, but if it clicks and after a few tries it may work, it sounds like the starter solenoid. i know cars have similar symptoms when the solenoid is going out.

[Homer]

Yuck.  This is an ugly one. 
Keep the battery on trickle charge overnight.  Make sure it's on the 12V setting.  Run through your standard start procedures, but keep your clutch lever tied down with something.  Use a jumper wire across the relay posts. 
If the starter still only clicks, take the cover off it (under the carbs) and whack it a few times with a mallet. 
Try it again. 
If it still only clicks - take the spark plugs off and try turning the motor by hand (big bolt under the timing cover [three 7mm bolts]).  Then, try the starter. 
Keep the key off, so you don't run it dead from the headlight. 

They're right, the battery might not be recharging, and the solenoid may be bad.  But, the question is why. 
A wiring harness is one thing.  An abused motor is another. 

[Twism86]

If you hear a click and then your lights dim it means the solenoid is working and the starter is likely dead. The click is the solenoid, which is basically a switch to transfer direct battery power to the starter, moving. The lights dim cuz all the power is going to the dead starter....

[Homer]

The click is the solenoid, which is basically a switch to transfer direct battery power to the starter, moving.

No, the click is the gear drive moving forward against the flywheel.  When it doesn't SPIN, it's either a battery lacking amperage, a fried starter (or the shaft stuck in the armature), or a locked motor.  Lights will dim, either way. 
He's had the battery on a charger.  The click indicates it's getting power, it just won't turn. 

At least, that's how I remember it.  It's probably the complete opposite, and I'm just a jack-@ss. 

[Twism86]

The click is the solenoid, which is basically a switch to transfer direct battery power to the starter, moving.

No, the click is the gear drive moving forward against the flywheel.  When it doesn't SPIN, it's either a battery lacking amperage, a fried starter (or the shaft stuck in the armature), or a locked motor.  Lights will dim, either way. 
He's had the battery on a charger.  The click indicates it's getting power, it just won't turn. 

At least, that's how I remember it.  It's probably the complete opposite, and I'm just a jack-@ss. 

It could also be that if the start isnt completely dead yet but even with a 100% fried started you should hear a solenoid click. So my similar car experiences have taught me..... Either way, most likely it a bad starter.

[sledge]

Homey?...... GS starter uses a sprag clutch, you wont find no clicky bendix or pre-engagers in there mate.

To the OP....Pull the starter from the bike, flash it across a good battery (use a car one if you want) with some jump leads, dont be scared by the fireworks. If it spins feckin A, the problem is elsewhere, if it doesnt spin...best case scenario is the brushes have hit the lifeline, worst is a burnt out armature, low insulation resistance or worn bushes. Or a problem in the starter driveline/sprag-clutch.

I have two spare low mileage starters in my garage, £20 each......collection only 

[JAY W]

THe GS5 is real easy to push start,if its locking up and starter is finding it hard to turn it over maybe your cylinders are hydraulic`n with fuel.Take plugs out and turn it over with the starter if poss`,if gas comes out of the plug holes you will need to stop floats from overflowing and replace o rings in the brass body that the float valve seats in,then change oil as it will be mixed with petrol.
Combo Jay.

[Homer]

Homey?...... GS starter uses a sprag clutch, you wont find no clicky bendix or pre-engagers in there mate.

Ok, thanks.  I'll read up on it. 

[bill14224]

Sounds like you have several issues at once.  I think you're right about it being a track bike due to the safety wires.  In that case it would probably be a safe assumption that it has manual petcocks so you have to shut them off when you park it.  In any case at least one of your floats is sticking open and flooding the airbox with gas so it's time to take the carbs apart again.  Not only do you have a fire hazard but gas can also enter the cylinders when parked, leak past the rings, and pollute your oil with gas.  If you ride it after that happens your engine makes horrible noises and welds itself on the inside and that is very bad!  Smell the oil and make sure it doesn't smell like gasoline and is too full.  GASOIL is bad!

As for your starter it may be as simple as a battery on its last legs.  Just because it isn't old doesn't necessarily mean bupkus.  I've heard of bike batteries lasting anywhere from less than a year to nine years.  If you don't have the $ for a new battery borrow one from one of your riding buddies to see if the starting problem goes away.  Batteries are far less reliable than our starters.  Best of luck.

[MB2]

Tearing a part the carbs to jet them today, and pulled the valve cover off to clearance everything. The left float was definitely stuck as the whole cylinder was flooded. What should I do about the cylinder being flooded over and over...could it have caused damage that I should check out while the cover's off?

She began to crank better after I kept her moving, but it seems now when I park the bike for awhile the flooded gas make it difficult. I don't have a petcock on the bike (just a fuel shut off on the tank...which I obviously can't reach with a screw driver when it's assembled)

~Scott

[Homer]

OOh, look at that.  And the signal was right in front of our face.  Drippy air filter. 
Ha!

Oh well.  Change the oil and fix the float. 
These guys used to sell a really good fuel selector.  Simple on/off with metal components, nice red dial.  Better than the plastic lawnmower shutoffs. 
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/ep/fuelvalve.html
I've got one, if you want it.  Almost brand new.