Fixing oil leak on my GS...

[madjak30]

My bike has been slowly leaking on my driveway for about a month now   , and I have finally investigated the leak and found that the shifter shaft seal is leaking  ...I bought the part, and I have the Clymer manual, but it doesn't go into detail on how to change the seal  ...just an exploded drawing of the whole shift assembly...is there any tricks to changing the seal out without having to pull the shifter shaft out, which requires removing the right side engine cover...and a gasket replacement...I am hoping to just pry it out gently with a flat head screwdriver  ...any suggestions?

[black and silver twin]

I think it just needs removed with a prick aka pick (its a real tool, it looks like a screwdriver handle with a sharp point on the end) But Im not for sure cause Ive never done it on the gs, on my old cb450 it just pooped out with a pick.

hopefully someone who has done it will reply.

bump bump and away!!!!!!!

[mister]

Are you Sure it's coming out of the shaft and Not leaking down to that area from the front sprocket which really means it's excess chain lube dripping down?

Michael

[T1z3R]

when i swapped this seal out on mine i removed the shaft.

you could drive a self tapping screw into the seal then pull it out with pliers.

id recommend removing the shaft though so you can properly clean where the new seal is going to go.

[Scrumpy]

I have never had to do any thing like this on my GS or anything else as a matter of a fact, but I worked in a bearing parts shop for years and can suggest...

Removing the shaft and replacing the seal that way, this will give you an idea if the shaft still has a good sealing surface (if its older and the seal has worn a grove into the shaft a new seal may not seal for long if at all). If you decide to go the easy route be careful not to damage the shaft. Again any major markings on the shaft will cause a leak.

As T1z3R suggested removing the shaft would also mean you can clean the housing for the new seal ensuring its not going to pop out later.

Just my 2c.
Keep the shiny side up
Scrumpy

P.S. yeah seal picks do exist as do o-ring picks! the o-ring picks look like dentist tools.

[madjak30]

The seal actually came out pretty easy...slipped a thin flat head screwdriver into the seal and pried lightly and it poped out  ...used the end of a 1/4" drive socket extension to tap the new one into place, after wiping everything off with a shop cloth.  Took the bike for a ride, and voila...still leaking   ...apparently that wasn't the problem  ...it's not excess chain lube...I have to add engine oil every so often...oh well, I will have to dig into it on the weekend if I have time...too late tonight...need to get yard work done...but if it is raining, maybe I will be able to make some time...

Later.

[JB848]

I find this very odd. I have owned a GS500 for over 20 years and never had a leak in anything. You are not being very specific about "the saft"

[A Non eMouse]

^ You're lucky.  My 2001 has had several leaks.

[sledge]

when i swapped this seal out on mine i removed the shaft.
id recommend removing the shaft though so you can properly clean where the new seal is going to go.

.....along with the RH cover, the complete clutch assembly, part of the selector mechanism including a few springs and circlips....yeah right 

Take the LH cover off and you will find there is more than enough room to polish the seal landing if needed.

If the landing is damaged and it cant be polished our with some wetordry or emery cloth it can be reclaimed with a speedi-sleeve without any dismantling. Given that there is still a leak I would now be suspecting the case gasket or the O/P shaft seal itself.

[T1z3R]

yeah right. its just how i do it. but then i can do all that and put it back together in under an hour so its no big deal.

each to their own...opinions 

[sledge]

Err...so can I and so can many others in here, and yeah......there is no big deal about it for some  

Why recommend a totally unnecessary and long winded way of doing something and making the job several times more complicated and difficult for someone that would appear to have little experience and knowledge?  This is a guy who is asking the easiest way to remove and refit an oil seal, on that basis do you seriously think he could confidently dismantle and refit most of the RH side of the engine........or that he would even want to?

If you are going to offer advice in here, fair enough but make it realistic for those concerned eh?

[T1z3R]

lol.

my reply to the OP offered how i did it when i had the same problem. then i offered a simple alternative for him. then i gave my recommendation of how it should be done.

just what exactly do you object to about that?

[madjak30]

@T1z3R: I under stand that would be the more technically correct way to do it, but I am trying to avoid opening up the cases...I think my problem is multiple leaks...the bike is a 2003 and has had 4 previous owners that I know of...so who knows how many times it has been dropped/abused...

@sledge: thanks for understanding I am trying to quick fix this...but all suggestions are welcome...your right in assuming that I have little motorcycle experience, but mechanically I am not worried about getting my "hands dirty" so to speak...I am in the middle of doing a resto-mod on a 1968 Firebird...I just want to fix the leak and continue riding the bike...I don't really want to have two vehicles ripped apart and no toys to play with...lol

It is oil change time for the bike anyway, so I will change the filter and replace the o-ring (it may also be a partial source of the leak), and while I am down there, I will also replace the oil seal on the clutch push rod on the left side...the output shaft seal seems to be dry, or at least not soaked like some of the engine...the whole bottom left side of the engine seems to get "wet" after a ride, but the wetness seems to start from the opening below the left side cover...feel like I am on a wild goose chase...I was pretty disappointed when I took the bike out for a ride after replacing the seal and the leak was still there...bummer...

Later.

[sledge]

A simple alternative? or......... THE simplest alternative? Therein lies the difference T1. Put another way if you were paying someone by the hour and for the parts to do this job which option would you take? 

Yeah removing the shaft to clean/inspect it makes sense, cant take that away from you but why would someone want to put in the all extra effort, time and possibly cost when there is a far simpler, quicker and equally efective way of achieving the same result?
Removing the engine from the frame to check valve clearances make the job x10 easier to do but does the extra effort involved make it a realistic option?

BTW...Why didnt you in your earlier post mention the fact your suggestion involved removal of the RH case, clutch, selecter mechanism etc? A very misleading reply if you dont mind me saying so.

Forgive me but in the light of all this am asking myself....has he really had that shaft out   

[T1z3R]

yes a simple alternative....screw a self tapper in and pull the seal out. could it be any simpler?

no need to forgive you there as you can ask yourself anything you like really as i have neither the need nor the intention to prove anything to anyone. wink 

@OP glad you did it your own way. after all thats the best way to learn. sorry it didnt cure your leak though. im sure youll track it down and sort it out 

[sledge]

yes a simple alternative....screw a self tapper in and pull the seal out. could it be any simpler?

Simpler??? You have just "recommended" removing the shaft WITHOUT mentioning the amount of work involved and now............you are saying do the old self-tapper trick ......You have gone from one extreme to the other.....I am struggling to comprehend your logic  Do you not agree that removal of the LH cover and polishing the shaft in situ is perhaps the easiest option?

For the benefit of the O/P can you walk us through the two options you have suggested? ie. How to remove inspect and reinstall the shift-shaft, and how to do the self tapper trick including what size screw to use. Shouldnt be too difficult for a man of your ability 

[madjak30]

You do know that I have already replaced the seal...right?     I just didn't want to have to replace the gasket and dig in quite that deep...not that it is major surgery, but ...

I am now hunting for the leak, I bought the seal for the clutch push rod (? not sure what it is called) and a new o-ring for the oil filter cover...I will see if that cures the problem...could also be the gasket on the left side...I hope not...

You guys can try to pick fights if you want, I'm going to get my bike back on the road...

Later.

[madjak30]

I can take the seal back, it looks like the previous owner had the left side crank case cover off and used silicone to repair the gasket instead of a whole new gasket   ...once it got warm, I could see little bubbles of oil coming out and starting to run down the case   ...Oh well, at least I have found an actual leak instead of guessing...but I'm not totally convinced that there is only one leak...back to the dealer tomorrow for the gasket, if they have one in stock...then replace the gasket and hope for the best...once I have it done, I will take it down to the pressur washer and wash the bike...then we'll see if the leak is cured...

Later.

[madjak30]

I think I will use 20w50 oil instead of 10w40...thicker oil...slower leak, or maybe no leak...still planning on doing the gasket (has to be ordered)...but the engine runs hot, so thicker oil can't hurt...just have to make sure the bike is in the garage so that it isn't affected by the cooler temps in the mornings   ...I have a feeling that the guy who sold it to me did the thicker oil trick   ...it wasn't leaking so bad when I got it, but it has got progressively worse...but I have been topping it up with 10w40...