Just bought a GS500, need help with carbs and gas tank

Started by ViD381, October 31, 2003, 08:33:21 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

JeffD

Well it might have been old crappy gas that you were trying to ride on.  
1.  Get rid of the gas in the tank(properly)
2.  Completely take apart the carbs and clean them with carb cleaner spray.  make sure all the brown gunk is gone.  Spray out each little hole/jet etc.
3.  Replace spark plugs.
4.  Change the oil.
5.  Lube the chain (go to a Motorcycle store and buy "chain lube")
6.  Check the water level in the battery.
7.  check/replace the fuel lines (if they are cracked/bad)
8.  While the carbs are apart rejet it.  http://www.gstwin.com/rejet.htm
9.  Put in a fuel filter.
10.  Clean out the screen inside the tank. ( the petcock that comes out of the bottom, take off the 2 screws, pull out the long assembly, spray from the inside out and then put it back in.

11.  Check the brakes/flud/pads/hoses.

Have fun!!
The world does revolve around us, we pick the coordinate system. -engineers

The Buddha

Tank can be cleaned... the tank is made of super thick plate... I double it will rust through... You get a gallon of muriatic acid, and tape up all the openings and pour in a 1/2 gallon and slosh it for 2-3 mins. Then dump it - bath tub or toilet is fine, and you should have a hot 2 gallons or so of water (faucet hot is fine) mixed with 4 cups of baking soda. Pour that in and slosh it for 3-4 mins... it neutralizes the acid and dump it. And now get the petcock back in, and fill it with 2-3 gas. It should be as dry as possible, but dont have to be totally dry. Basically slosh gas around a while, and drain it and toss it. Now put the tank back on the bike and fill it with gas. That should take care of the rust, and if you keep it filled up you'll be fine. If you cant do that... Well Kreem, POR or caswell plating is the option. This is cheap and quick.
Hesitation may be a lot of things, and crap and rust in tank couold clog up the carbs. Also check/clean your air filter (should see daylight through the pores), airbox (no hoses ripped/missing and no cracks etc), change the oil, and check and clean your spark plugs.
It could also be lean jetting... which is a condition for the factory.
Painting will be ~ 2-300 I think.
Cool.
Srinath.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
I run a business based on other people's junk.
-----------------------------------------------------------------

clkeith50

Muratic acid is a quick fix for the tank, but unless it's kept completely full after using it, it will rust again pretty quickly. Also, muratic acid will burn the skin and fumes will burn your lungs. USE CAUTION!. Use phosphoric acid if the tank's not that bad. It leaves behind a zinc oxide coating that won't rust. If the tank is relly bad, use muratic acid first, then follow it up with the phosphoric acid. If it only sat for 8 months, it shouldn't be that bad. It should sit for 1 to 2 days with the phosphoric acid in it to clean it. It's not nearly as fast acting as the muriatic acid. After washing the tank out with water (and baking soda), I rinse it a couple of times with a gallon of denatured alcohol (from Home Depot) to get rid of the water.

Curby Keith
Sachse, TX


clkeith50

Check with this place for carburetor kits.

http://www.siriusconinc.com/ie.html

If the bike was only sitting for 8 months, you stand a good chance doing more damage to it with the Kreem kit than if you just clean it an leave it alone. Kreem is good to use on old tanks that have rusted badly and have pinholes that you need to seal. If you don't have holes in it and it's still thick enough to clean, I wouldn't use Kreem in it on a bet. It's been known to flake off and if you leave any rust in the tank when you put in the Kreem, it will definitely rust out there. Vintage bike restorers very seldom line a tank. It's just not needed.

Curby

SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk