firing on one cylinder

[James103hpR6]

I just got the gs back from the shop after a run in with a car - their fault...  Anyway half the time it will only fire on one cylinder and it never did this before.  It was laid down reletively softly and wasnt down very long.  Its not the plugs so Im hoping maybe its the wires...  Anyone have any suggestions?

[Kerry]

Which side was it laid down on?  If it was the right side you should inspect the ignition-related stuff behind the round Suzuki cover, and the wires that go there.

I had a similar problem (running on one cylinder), but it was caused by a corroded connector on the left side.  It DID affect one of the wires that went to the right-hand ignition system, though.

I doubt your problem will be with the same wire or connector, but it could be a little farther "downstream".  Before I launch into a bunch of details though, check behind that cover and report back.

[Rollin668]

I've fixed my bike from running on one cylinder.  It would start up fine and run for a little bit, but once warmed up, then one cylinder would die.  Turns out the accident the previous owner had with the bike had damaged the ignition rotor under the right side cover.  I replaced it and everything runs fine now.  

I would suggest either calling around your local bike salvage yards or just replace it with a new one from bikebandit.com (they will most likely be the cheapest at $116.00+/-).

Good luck.


Rolly

[Moose]

ignition rotor  (they will most likely be the cheapest at $116.00+/-).
Rolly

Or you can just place a post on the For sale side, you can probly get one alot cheaper from someone here on the board.

[James103hpR6]

yeah it was the right side...  the ignition cover got ripped up so I replaced it with a used one but dint really look at anything behind it.  It is warming up then going to only one cylinder so Ill check it out and see if I need anything replaced.  thanks

[Rollin668]

As an FYI - the part will look totally normal if it is the ignition rotor.  The only way I determined mine was broken I took a ohm meter and ran through the electrical system.  I ended up checking the wires that come from the rotor when it was only on one cylinder and figured out it was not getting a reading.  

If you are handy with electricals then you should have no problem.  I would assume an electrical problem instead of a mechanical one.

Good luck...
(btw- the repair manual is very useful in locating the problem...)

Rolly

[Kerry]

Rolly's right - walking through the system with a manual and an ohmmeter is the best way to go.

But if you don't have a manual, we can certainly look up the resistance values, etc. for you.  I'm almost hoping that you DO need help - maybe that will force me to write up a proper How-To page....

Still, it all begins with your visual inspection.  There's no use ripping into the electricals up near the battery if there's something obviously wrong behind that cover!

[James103hpR6]

Yeah I dont know much about this bike because it was my beginner bike but im kinda getting back into it. Any instruction would be great
thanks

[Kerry]

Well, until I can get around to doing a "proper" page, perhaps you could get some pointers from the current thread
Narrowing down the problems to a broken bike.

[Bob Broussard]

The part you need to check for resistance is the signal generator. Not the rotor.
The rotor is the piece that fits on the end of the crank and rotates.
The tab on the rotor passes the signal generator during a revolution of the crank. This sends a signal to the igniter box (black box). The black box triggers the coils to fire.
Disconnect the plug from the signal generator that connects to the black box.
Set the meter to X100 ohms. It should show between 250-420 ohms for each signal generator. If it is more or less than that range, it is defective.
The real pain is, you can't just replace the one bad part. You have to get a complete new setup with the mounting plate and signal generators.
Unless you can find a used part.