Valve adjust questions

[twocool]

OK...I'm gonna do the valve check/adjust tomorrow.  I have the maintenance manual and have reviewed the section in the DIY on the gs500 website...but.......

Question #1:

The guy on the website says to remover the breather.   The manual says, "do not remove the breather"
which one?


Question #2


Manual and the guy says to rotate the engine with 19mm wrench, in the direction the engine normally runs.  How do I know which way the engine runs?   In other words do I rotate with the 19MM wrench, clockwise or counterclocwise, as you look at it?

Question #3

The guy on the internet shows removing the carburettors..........the manual does not mention this.  Is this necessary?

Question #4

Both the guy and the manual say to remove the pillion rider grabber and rear frame covers.  Is this necessary on all models or only the E model and not on the F model??



Cookie

[tt_four]

#1. There's a little cover, about the size of a deck of playing cards. You have to remove that just so you can wiggle the top cover of the engine loose. When you start trying to pull it apart to get to the valves, you'll see which part it is that's in your way.

#2 I think it rotates clockwise. There's probably an arrow in under that cover somewhere. Otherwise just take a guess. Nothing's gonna happen to the motor if you spin it half a rotation the wrong way.

#3 I'm not sure. I almost want to say you don't have to at all, but again, if they get in the way you'll know it, and you'll just have to pull them off. It's pretty easy.

#4 That sounds unnecessary. Actually, the older models needed the side covers removed so you could pull off the tank, that might've been why. No idea on why he said to remove the grab rail.

Good luck!

[twocool]

#1. There's a little cover, about the size of a deck of playing cards. You have to remove that just so you can wiggle the top cover of the engine loose. When you start trying to pull it apart to get to the valves, you'll see which part it is that's in your way.

#2 I think it rotates clockwise. There's probably an arrow in under that cover somewhere. Otherwise just take a guess. Nothing's gonna happen to the motor if you spin it half a rotation the wrong way.

#3 I'm not sure. I almost want to say you don't have to at all, but again, if they get in the way you'll know it, and you'll just have to pull them off. It's pretty easy.

#4 That sounds unnecessary. Actually, the older models needed the side covers removed so you could pull off the tank, that might've been why. No idea on why he said to remove the grab rail.

Good luck!

Thanks for the quick reply.

Without the bike in front of me (its at my workshop and I'm home) I am having trouple visualizing some stuff.   The pictures in the manual are crap and the stuff on the internet is good but still does not show everything.  I know there is a 70 minute video out there, but I can't get it at home with dial up.

I think you are right about the rear fram covers.....have to come off to get the tank off on old model....I've had my tank off already and did not do the rear covers.......

Carbs.....we'll see how tight a working space there is ....

Cookie

[twocool]

#1. There's a little cover, about the size of a deck of playing cards. You have to remove that just so you can wiggle the top cover of the engine loose. When you start trying to pull it apart to get to the valves, you'll see which part it is that's in your way.

#2 I think it rotates clockwise. There's probably an arrow in under that cover somewhere. Otherwise just take a guess. Nothing's gonna happen to the motor if you spin it half a rotation the wrong way.

#3 I'm not sure. I almost want to say you don't have to at all, but again, if they get in the way you'll know it, and you'll just have to pull them off. It's pretty easy.

#4 That sounds unnecessary. Actually, the older models needed the side covers removed so you could pull off the tank, that might've been why. No idea on why he said to remove the grab rail.

Good luck!

Thanks for the quick reply.

Without the bike in front of me (its at my workshop and I'm home) I am having trouple visualizing some stuff.   The pictures in the manual are crap and the stuff on the internet is good but still does not show everything.  I know there is a 70 minute video out there, but I can't get it at home with dial up.

I think you are right about the rear fram covers.....have to come off to get the tank off on old model....I've had my tank off already and did not do the rear covers.......

Carbs.....we'll see how tight a working space there is ....

Cookie

The maintenance manual says you have to remove the rear covers just to change the air filter......

Rear covers, then gas tank, then air filter.

The owner manual for my 09 says just remove the seat, and lift the rear of the gas tank.  I've done it that way...so I probably don't have to do the reaar covers for the valve check either.

Cookie

[gsJack]

I've always removed the breather cover and hose on top of the valve cover, it would be rather difficult to get the cover off without getting it out of the way.  The engine turns clockwise as viewed from the right/signal generator side.  I've done over 20 valve checks to my 97 and 02 GS's without ever pulling the carbs, definetly not necessary.  I pulled the side covers on my 97 GS for a valve check since they cover the bolts removed to pull the gas tank, not necessary to touch them on 01 and later models.

If your going to keep the bike for high milage give the exhaust valves plenty of clearance, at least to the top of the tolerance range.  I started setting my 02 exhaust valves over spec by .001-.002" and it will reach 100k miles still using mid size shims.  My 97 exhaust valves set on the tight side required many shim changes and one was down to a min 215 shim before 80k miles with nowhere to go.  GS exhaust valves will recede into the seats from the heat if they don't have enough cooling time on the seats.  Intake valve settings don't change much if any at all and will do fine set to standard specs..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/GSvalvelogs.jpg

[twocool]

I've always removed the breather cover and hose on top of the valve cover, it would be rather difficult to get the cover off without getting it out of the way.  The engine turns clockwise as viewed from the right/signal generator side.  I've done over 20 valve checks to my 97 and 02 GS's without ever pulling the carbs, definetly not necessary.  I pulled the side covers on my 97 GS for a valve check since they cover the bolts removed to pull the gas tank, not necessary to touch them on 01 and later models.

If your going to keep the bike for high milage give the exhaust valves plenty of clearance, at least to the top of the tolerance range.  I started setting my 02 exhaust valves over spec by .001-.002" and it will reach 100k miles still using mid size shims.  My 97 exhaust valves set on the tight side required many shim changes and one was down to a min 215 shim before 80k miles with nowhere to go.  GS exhaust valves will recede into the seats from the heat if they don't have enough cooling time on the seats.  Intake valve settings don't change much if any at all and will do fine set to standard specs..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/GSvalvelogs.jpg

Thanks....good info.....I'm ready to attack those valves tomorrow.....

I agree with the exhaust....to the wide side...better cooling......Back in my old VW days this was important, as they would burn exhaust valves if set too tight.

But there is still a range in there....The book says .03 to .08mm    that's .001 to .003 inches......add .001 or .002in that's  .06 to .11mm   or even .09 to .14 mm.........


I do 'em in mm since the shims come in mm..........


Yeah, wadda ya do when you get to the smallest size shim?   New valves??


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