Anyone re-keyed a lock?

[adidasguy]

My new yellow 1994 has a finicky ignition. I think it is a combination of worn out and a duplicate key (i.e.not the original). The gas & seat locks work fine.
Knowing it is hard to replace the ignition,I do have a top tripple with good ignition and original key. I was thinking of putting that on. Then, anyone know if it is east for someone to re-key a gas cap and helmet lock?

Or has anyone found an easy way to remove the screws that hold in the ignition? Looking at a bare top tripple, it seems 2 screws hold in the lock and the head of the bolts were then cut off. Is there a conical shaped tool to grab what's left of the screw and get it out? Then I can put in a replacement set I have which is loose (not mounted on a top tripple)

[average]

Take off the gas cap or seatlock and take it to a locksmith. 30-45 mins and $25 later you should be good to go. 

[Jared]

You can " re-key  " them with a dremel/file... I haven't pulled a gas cap apart ( haven't had to luckily ) in a long time but I have done this to a seat latch...

Easiest way to describe what to do is pull your  seat latch off and put the key that goes with it in the lock cylinder ( with the cylinder completely removed ). Note where the tumblers sit with the barrel ( flush).

Put the key from your new lock cylinder  in the barrel of the seat latch  cylinder. If  the tumblers don't sit flush or outside the barrel- swap them around til they do and make it like it was when it was with the original key in it by sanding/grinding them even with the barrel--or use the old cylinders tumblers to make them right without sanding.

When you sand/dremel the tumblers you have to make sure they will recede into the barrel ( so it will lock....). You may have to lightly dress the tops of thew tumblers ( sides of the tops actually..).


Or have a smith do it.

[adidasguy]

Really, what would need to be done is re-key the gas cap and seat lock to match the good ignition lock & key.
Present ignition lock is rather worn out.
But I did find a matching set of ignition, gas and seat lock in my parts. Just is the seat lock is an "F" model. Should be easy to re-key the "E" seat lock to match the rest of the set or make a mount for it in place of the "E" seat lock mount.
Now I'll take the couple of un-needed tripple tops with locks and experiment on an easy way to remove & replace the ignition lock. Glad I got this big box-o-parts to play with.

[Jared]

 Ohhh for getting the ignition off the triple clamp....anti-theft/tamper bolts....
Drill the anti theft heads off ...pull the top clamp off ...spin the  bolts out and get new allen head bolts.

If you have a whole set that matches- just swap the seat latch cylinders  if the whole cable release mechanism/cable are different.


EDIT:
Before you bolt  the ignition up- plug it into your harness and make sure it works with your bike ( unlikely it's different but they do change things occasionally)

[adidasguy]

Sounds do-able. When we have a non-rainy day above 50 degrees,I'll get started.
Thanks for the advice,..


Oh, since the good ignition is on a triple top, I think I can swap triple clamp tops. Swap gas caps then just re-key the seat. Seems I have to remove the top anyway to get the lock out so if I do that, just put the other one on and not bother trying to remove the ignition.

[Twisted]

My ignition can be finicky at times. I drown it in WD40 and it seems to work much better. Have you tried this yet?

[adidasguy]

Tried that. Have to hold it at a certain angle to work properly. Indicates it is worn out. Will try more WD40 and T90 tomorrow.
Maybe take him for a ride. My first ride after achilles tendon surgery Jan 7.

[Jared]

WD40 is a big no-no in locks.

Yes it will help loosen them up ....but then it acts as dust flypaper and glue (dries out and gets sticky)  and will gum it up nicely.
Graphite for lube with locks.