New GS500F owner, chain tension questions

[OHspartan]

Hey everyone- first bike for me. I have about 125 miles and five days under my belt so far.
I'm primarily concerned about the chain tension at this point- the dealer that I bought from said they inspected, lubed and adjusted, but I'm observing 2.125" of play when the bike is on the center stand. This is with me pushing down on the chain, recording measurement, pushing up on the chain, recording measurement. The process for adjusting the chain tension seems simple enough, but I worry that I may somehow screw up the alignment?
So... firstly should I adjust the chain tension to ~1" of play when the bike is on the center stand and has no weight on it? If so, any precautions so I don't screw up the alignment?

Thanks!

[scratch]

Chain adjustment should be done after a minimum 15 minute ride.
Should be done with the bike on the sidestand.
1" of play up in the middle of the lower run of chain; about where the centerstand foot is, when it's up.

Alignment - search alignment with my username.  Otherwise, while doing the slack adjustment; remember, it is easier to tighten than to loosen.  Meaning, tighten in very small increments.  I do this in increments of a 1/12th of a turn, which is easy with a 6-sided adjuster nut.  Always tighten the right adjuster before the left, the left should always be your last adjustment.

[Twism86]

Yea what he said 

[OHspartan]

Left=chain side, right=brake side... correct?
Thanks for the input.

[scratch]

Port (left), starboard (right).  Yes, the chain side is on the left, and the brake(s) are on the right.

I always think of the right-side as the Stop/Go side (throttle and brakes), and the left as the "How fast" (clutch/gearshift).

[XLAR8]

just remember when you sit on the bike the chain wil tighten thats one reason you need play.


when the bike is on the centre stand the back wheel hangs making it very loose (dont start the bike up and put it into gear like this as the chain can  run on things)

[OHspartan]

I'm starting to wonder about the dealer that I bought this bike from. My experience so far is that it rides great, but when looking at the chain a minute ago I realized that the left side of the bike is one notch further forward than the right (notch being the tick marks forged into the swingarm). Is there any possible way that this thing is right?

[fraze11]

and dont forget to follow proper re-torque on the rear wheel nut.  When I did my chain a few weeks back, my gun was still set from a previous job I had done (75lbs) and I forgot to re-set it ... the rear wheel of the GS torque spec is 40-45lbs.

[Twism86]

and dont forget to follow proper re-torque on the rear wheel nut.  When I did my chain a few weeks back, my gun was still set from a previous job I had done (75lbs) and I forgot to re-set it ... the rear wheel of the GS torque spec is 40-45lbs.

How important is that? I dont own a torque wrench or air gun and just tighten the crap out of it by hand.

[OHspartan]

I'm starting to wonder about the dealer that I bought this bike from. My experience so far is that it rides great, but when looking at the chain a minute ago I realized that the left side of the bike is one notch further forward than the right (notch being the tick marks forged into the swingarm). Is there any possible way that this thing is right?

Any advice?

[zirconx]

and dont forget to follow proper re-torque on the rear wheel nut.  When I did my chain a few weeks back, my gun was still set from a previous job I had done (75lbs) and I forgot to re-set it ... the rear wheel of the GS torque spec is 40-45lbs.

How important is that? I dont own a torque wrench or air gun and just tighten the crap out of it by hand.

If you are going to be doing this stuff yourself you should have a torque wrench. They are cheap, here is one for $21.99: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-drive-click-stop-torque-wrench-807.html

I have that one and it works fine. If you don't have a harbor freight in your area you can order it online or even Sears has some cheap ones.

[scratch]

Do not rely on the marks.  Search alignment and put my name in as the author.

As a former motorcycle mechainic (actually I still am licenced, I just don't work at a shop anymore), I have calibrated my arm using a torque wrench reapeatedly, often on the same nut.  Hand tight, pulling, on the handle of a 1/2" driver until it doesn't move anymore should be sufficient, just remember to line up the cotter pin holes.

Okay I searched for you: http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=24581.msg252910#msg252910

P.S.: I searched "chain" with my username, the above post was made in the FAQ; another great resource to look at.

[ke7syv]

and dont forget to follow proper re-torque on the rear wheel nut.  When I did my chain a few weeks back, my gun was still set from a previous job I had done (75lbs) and I forgot to re-set it ... the rear wheel of the GS torque spec is 40-45lbs.

How important is that? I dont own a torque wrench or air gun and just tighten the crap out of it by hand.

If you are going to be doing this stuff yourself you should have a torque wrench. They are cheap, here is one for $21.99: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-drive-click-stop-torque-wrench-807.html

I have that one and it works fine. If you don't have a harbor freight in your area you can order it online or even Sears has some cheap ones.

And remember, only use the torque wrench to torque stuff. If a bolt/nut needs to come OFF then grab the impact or a standard wrench. Torque wrenches are calibrated devices, so be nice.  I have both a harbor freight and Craftsman. IMHO both are about equal POS but cheap sooo... no real complaints.

[twocool]

and dont forget to follow proper re-torque on the rear wheel nut.  When I did my chain a few weeks back, my gun was still set from a previous job I had done (75lbs) and I forgot to re-set it ... the rear wheel of the GS torque spec is 40-45lbs.

My '09 Manual says 56 ft-lbs....

[OHspartan]

Well, I successfully adjusted the chain tension to within spec- now 1" of movement when on the sidestand. Now, of course, I'm paranoid that I messed up the wheel alignment and that I didn't get the axle nut tight enough. I didn't have the right driver for my torque wrench (which I of course found out after I had the nut loose) so I had to wing it. I just used a star wrench with one torque hand instead of two, and tightened it with continuous force.
A test ride didn't show any axle movement, and I have also found that I eliminated the soft clanking sound that would happen every once in awhile when maintaining (no accel/decel) speed that made me suspicious of the chain in the first place.

[philgs500F]

Do not rely on the marks.  Search alignment and put my name in as the author.

As a former motorcycle mechainic (actually I still am licenced, I just don't work at a shop anymore), I have calibrated my arm using a torque wrench reapeatedly, often on the same nut.  Hand tight, pulling, on the handle of a 1/2" driver until it doesn't move anymore should be sufficient, just remember to line up the cotter pin holes.

Okay I searched for you: http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=24581.msg252910#msg252910

P.S.: I searched "chain" with my username, the above post was made in the FAQ; another great resource to look at.

Agreed, the marks SUCK.  Good for about a 50% solution, nothing more. 

I used a torque wrench on the rear nut, set to 100 ft/lbs, then looked up in my service manual (*cough, bought online) after which I reduced to about 50-60ft/lbs.    As far as aligning the chain, back and forth from right to left...until I was sure it was decently straight.  Measured the excess on the adjuster bolt, and the distance from the rear of swingarm to the center of the axle nut.  Also took the bike for a spin, rode without hands on bars (coasting) and made sure it didn't pull too far in either direction.  It's close enough.  Hell, my wife rides it...which means it will be ridden very conservatively.