newb here saying hi and question about high revs

[5thAve]

Okay, so two things here we want to check.

#1)  check to see that the throttle cable is moving freely and not binding; that the throttle is in fact closing fully.  you can do this without the engine running.  Just look underneath the carbs, in the centre and you will see where the cable pulls on the bell crank, turning the "thingy" that opens and closes the butterfly plates in the carburettors.  If this thingy is not returning to a fully closed position, then no amount of turning the adjuster screw will have any influence on the idle speed.  The adjuster screw works by limiting the fully closed position of the throttle rod thingy.  So I strongly suspect that you have a stuck throttle that is not fully closing.  If it were fully closing, then a couple turns of the adjuster would have a major impact on your idle speed.  If the cable is pinched somewhere, binding due to improper routing, then turning your handlebars fully left or fully right may cause the cable to pull on the throttle, opening and closing, and causing your idle speed to rise.  CHECK THAT TURNING THE HANDLEBARS FULLY SIDE TO SIDE HAS NO INFLUENCE ON IDLE SPEED.  Check to see that the throttle does actually return to fully closed.  (just because the hand grip rotates back to closed position does not necessarily mean the throttle on at the carburetor is closed, if the cable is mis-routed or something).

Okay.  If the throttle is actually closing, then spray the intake boots.

#2) Spray something flammable (WD-40 is fine) on the rubber boots that join the carbs to the engine head.  If you are spraying on the airbox side of the carbs, you are on the wrong side. You want to be downstream from the carbs, so between the carbs and the head.  Spray where the carbs join the rubber and also where the rubber goes into the head.    If there is a leak due to a crack or just loose fit, you will see the idle speed change.  

Report back when you've checked these two things, and we'll go forward.  

[scratch]

Or, maybe the choke cable came out of its seat on No. 2 carburetor.

[rs]

hi everyone.

sorry i haven't posted in a while.  been raining here and haven't been able to get out to test.

anyway, just had her out, warmed up and like before the idle was hovering at 4k-5k.  did the handlebar test.  no change in idle from all the way left to all the way right.  right after that i sprayed the boots, on the engine side, with wd-40.  again, no change in rpm.  any other ideas?

[rs]

Update: So I previously tried all the tests mentioned with nothing.  Then a friend of mine gave me a bottle of propane to test the boots.  BINGO! 2 tiny cracks on the inside portion of each boot were found when I sprayed.  RPMS shot right up as soon as I pointed the nozzle in there.  Temporary fix of high temp silicone has brought the rpms down to 2500-3k from 6k.  Boots, O-rings, and clamps are ordered and on their way.  Thanks again everyone for your help and suggestions. 

[SecretAgent]

Update: So I previously tried all the tests mentioned with nothing.  Then a friend of mine gave me a bottle of propane to test the boots.  BINGO! 2 tiny cracks on the inside portion of each boot were found when I sprayed.  RPMS shot right up as soon as I pointed the nozzle in there.  Temporary fix of high temp silicone has brought the rpms down to 2500-3k from 6k.  Boots, O-rings, and clamps are ordered and on their way.  Thanks again everyone for your help and suggestions. 

Good job! Glad you fixed it.  Funny thing is I have a 98500E with similar problems..but the RPMs only shoot up to about 3-4k...I probably have a small crack too

[ben2go]

At 5500+ miles,your bike is over due for a valve check and adjustment.You will also want to balance/sync your carbs after the valve adjustment.All this will contribute to happier and smoother running carbs, as they rely on a strong and even vacuum from the engine.