My chain tension adjuster seems misaligned

[paalak]

I just tried installing a new chain and sprockets, all stock (16 tooth front, 39 tooth rear, 110 link chain), and wasn't able to because the ends were too far apart and wouldn't meet. When pulling them together as far as they would go, there was about 1.5 inches between them, so I couldn't install the master link. After counting the links on the chain and the teeth on both sprockets I thought I must be going crazy, until I noticed that they chain tension adjusters seemed out of whack. It's hard to describe, so I took a pic:



As you can see, the axle is as far back as it will go in that slot on the swingarm that it fits into. I think it's not supposed to be that far back, because the arrow on the alignment indicator is past all of the little notch marks above (barely visible in the pic) it on the swingarm. If I try adjusting the tension adjuster nut to get it to where the notches are, the plate at the end becomes loose and the axle won't move any closer. In the pic you can see that the plate is already loose, so where it is is as far as I can adjust the rear axle towards the front sprocket. This doesn't seem right, and I'm guessing this is why the ends of my chain won't meet. When I bought the bike used the chain was way stretched out, so I'm wondering whether the PO did something to allow him to adjust the tension way back, that makes it difficult to install a new chain. Any way I can fix this?

[burning1]

Little concerned by the nature of the questions your asking, so let me ask a an obvious one... Did you loosen the axle before attempting to install the new chain? If not, do so now.

The chain adjusters are designed to move. By adjusting the nut on the back, you control their maximum looseness. Loosen them up as far as they will go, install the chain, and adjust tension.

[HardcoreKeith]

Kick the tire forward.

[sledge]

Little concerned by the nature of the questions your asking, so let me ask a an obvious one... Did you loosen the axle before attempting to install the new chain?

They way I read it he has put a new sprocket on the rear and if he can do it without loosening the axle-bolt he has got a talent me and you havent 

[paalak]

I did loosen the axle, I completely removed the axle nut. Am I supposed to be able to move the rear axle forward along those slots in the swingarms? I've tried really hard to do that and it won't budge. I have the adjuster nuts loosened all the way back now, but I can't get the axle to move forward. I guess I'll try kicking the tire some more. But I don't see how it can move with the way the rear brake caliper is fixed to that bar that connects to the frame. I just don't see how the axle can move, since it passes through that fixed caliper. I must be missing something really basic here...

[paalak]

Little concerned by the nature of the questions your asking, so let me ask a an obvious one... Did you loosen the axle before attempting to install the new chain?

They way I read it he has put a new sprocket on the rear and if he can do it without loosening the axle-bolt he has got a talent me and you havent 

Hehe, haven't gotten quite to that stage yet. I'm still having trouble with the basic noob stuff. Think I was a bit too ambitious trying to change both tires and the chain/sprockets when I've only been riding a few months, but the bike really needed it. Finally got through the tire change and have both new sprockets installed, so after I get this chain on I'll be done with this round of maintenance work. The worst part is not being able to ride till I get it all done 

[paalak]

Problem solved, turned out I just wasn't kicking the wheel hard enough. I tried whacking it with my knees and that got it moving. Got the chain on, adjusted tension, raking it for a test spin around the block tomorrow morning 

[Twisted]

Problem solved, turned out I just wasn't kicking the wheel hard enough. I tried whacking it with my knees and that got it moving. Got the chain on, adjusted tension, raking it for a test spin around the block tomorrow morning 

That's right. Gotta show her who's boss! Tough love.

[sledge]

The brake disc looks quite badly worn, any plans to replace it in the near future?

[crzydood17]

your evil sledge...

[the mole]

I did loosen the axle, I completely removed the axle nut. Am I supposed to be able to move the rear axle forward along those slots in the swingarms? I've tried really hard to do that and it won't budge. I have the adjuster nuts loosened all the way back now, but I can't get the axle to move forward. I guess I'll try kicking the tire some more. But I don't see how it can move with the way the rear brake caliper is fixed to that bar that connects to the frame. I just don't see how the axle can move, since it passes through that fixed caliper. I must be missing something really basic here...

I see you got it moving by kicking it, but you're right about the caliper making it hard to move because of the brake reaction rod it's attached to. You can alleviate this next time by loosening the bolt, but don't forget to re-tighten afterwards.
By the way, I agree with sledge about your brake disc, it looks like you've got some deep grooves there. Time to check the rear pads and measure the disc thickness.

[paalak]

The brake disc looks quite badly worn, any plans to replace it in the near future?

NnnnnnOOOOOOOOOOOooooooo!!!!!!

I think the PO must have rode this bike pretty damn hard before selling it. The chain was completely stretched out after 10,000 miles, the rear tire was all cracked up, and now this with the brake disc. I'll at least throw some new pads on and start thinking about replacing the disc. So much for those new boots I've had my eye on  Thanks for pointing that out sledge, I'd rather know about an issue with the bike than be blissfully ignorant and let it get worse. Already did that with the chain before finally getting around to checking tension 

[JAY W]

If you read this before going on your bike,don`t forget to pump up the pressure in your rear brake (usually when you remove a wheel,the pads will be pushed slightly further in) 

[burning1]

It's possible something was cocked a little, or that some parts had seized up. First thing I would have done is given the axle a couple of blows with a rubber mallet to knock it out a few mm and loosen everything up.

The torque arm doesn't lock the brake calliper hanger in place - it's actually designed to let it move, just not to let it rotate around the brake disk.

[Twisted]

Rear rotors aren't that pricey. You can pick them up on eBay with pads for around $70.

[paalak]

Rear rotors aren't that pricey. You can pick them up on eBay with pads for around $70.

Thanks for the tip. I've decided to at least replace the rear pads (fronts are OK for now), and I'm considering switching the rotor while I'm at it. I saw that rotor/pads deal on eBay, wondering if this is that made-in-China rotor that a lot of members have reported having problems with, installing it to find it's warped, etc. Are the cheap rotors usually acceptable, with a few rare bad apples, or does it make sense to spend $150-$200 for a name brand rotor? And what about pads? I was planning on buying the EBC Double-H pads. Is it worth paying a premium for the EBC's, or would the generic ones be at least close to them in performance and longevity?

I probably won't replace the rotor just yet if the more expensive ones are the way to go. I measured the width of mine with calipers and it's still over the minimum spec printed on the side of the rotor. So even if it's a bit grooved, it seems fine to me as long is it's not warped, which it isn't. But if the cheap ones are usable, I'd only be spending $40 more than the EBC pads cost for pads and a rotor. Might go that rout if the quality is decent.

[ben2go]

If you replace the pads without a rotor,you will be wasting a good set of pads.A worn rotor will chew through pads like a grinder usually.

[paalak]

So I decided to replace the rear rotor, as it is looking pretty bad. Those grooves are deep enough to feel them easily with my finger, so it seems like they'd cut into the new pads fast. I'm planning on ordering this rotor/pad sett off of eBay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190550309315&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AVRI#ht_2523wt_887

If these are bad quality though, I'd spring for an EBC rotor and pads, so feel free to let me know if I'm about to make a mistake buying them.

[ben2go]

Looks like a good deal.I run HH pads on the rear and they are severe over kill.My rear brake will lock if the wind blows hard.J/K but it does require a light toe to prevent lock up.

[paalak]

Thanks, just ordered the rotor and pads.