Think my bike is toast

rock_rebel · July 23, 2011, 07:12:43 PM

Today I finally had time and patience to install the new pulse generator, signal rotor and crankcase cover. Once I jad everything together I attempted to start it for the first time in about a year. The ignition works, but the signal rotor just keeps spinning around, and the bike doesn't "catch". Some key points:

1. Changed the oil and filter. The bike has approx. 3 Litres of oil.

2. In the Clymer manual it says to line the signal rotor up with the locator pin on the shaft. Turns out the pin is missing, but the hole is still there, so I lined the rotor up with that. Is the locator pin needed in the starting process? If so my bike is screwed.

3. The exhaust made a few loud popping noises while I tried to start the bike.

4. The bike has been in heated storage but the gas in the tank is almost a year old.

ryott52 · July 23, 2011, 07:35:54 PM

So the starter is spinning, but the engine is not turning over at all?

Jared · July 23, 2011, 08:27:54 PM

Year old gas....

Drain the tank and get some fresh fuel in there.Clean the carbs- that is remove them from the bike and do a real cleaning.

rock_rebel · July 23, 2011, 08:47:51 PM

Quote from: ryott52 on July 23, 2011, 07:35:54 PM
So the starter is spinning, but the engine is not turning over at all?

The engine is turning over, bit its that first sound like uh, just before the bike is supposed to actually start.

rock_rebel · July 23, 2011, 08:50:37 PM

Quote from: Jared on July 23, 2011, 08:27:54 PM
Year old gas....

Drain the tank and get some fresh fuel in there.Clean the carbs- that is remove them from the bike and do a real cleaning.

So you mean nothing simple haha. Could there be something wrong with rotor? Is it supposed to spin or hit against the little notch from the pulse generator? I'm glad I didn't burn out the engine or anything because that would have turned a nice bike into a paperweight.

ramennoodles · July 23, 2011, 09:02:45 PM

you need the pin. Sounds like timing is probably off due to not having that pin in there to line it up properly. Buy a new pin and stick it in there. The rotor is suppose to keep spinning with the motor.

Jared · July 23, 2011, 09:14:57 PM

Yeah you should replace the pin-it's necessary---I didn't think it needed to be stated.

If it's not ( the rotor ) locked in place the ignition will not stay in the correct timing---You tighten the bolt but the rotor still spins by itself on the shaft right?

Year old gas isn't going to be any good ( did you use stabil or anything?)- and the carbs will be crudded up and need cleaning.

rock_rebel · July 24, 2011, 05:16:10 AM

Quote from: ramennoodles on July 23, 2011, 09:02:45 PM
you need the pin. Sounds like timing is probably off due to not having that pin in there to line it up properly. Buy a new pin and stick it in there. The rotor is suppose to keep spinning with the motor.

Can I buy the pin separately or do I need the full shaft part?

rock_rebel · July 24, 2011, 05:23:57 AM

Quote from: Jared on July 23, 2011, 09:14:57 PM
Yeah you should replace the pin-it's necessary---I didn't think it needed to be stated.

If it's not ( the rotor ) locked in place the ignition will not stay in the correct timing---You tighten the bolt but the rotor still spins by itself on the shaft right? [/quoute]

Exactly, the shaft keeps spinning even when properly tightened

rock_rebel · July 24, 2011, 05:36:14 AM

Quote from: Jared on July 23, 2011, 09:14:57 PM
Yeah you should replace the pin-it's necessary---I didn't think it needed to be stated.

If it's not ( the rotor ) locked in place the ignition will not stay in the correct timing---You tighten the bolt but the rotor still spins by itself on the shaft right?

Year old gas isn't going to be any good ( did you use stabil or anything?)- and the carbs will be crudded up and need cleaning.

Exaxtly, the rotor still spins on the shaft.

sledge · July 24, 2011, 05:37:04 AM

Quote from: rock_rebel on July 24, 2011, 05:16:10 AM
Can I buy the pin separately or do I need the full shaft part?

The pin is available as an individual part. Shown as Number 5 on the crankshaft fiche, Suzuki part no 47113-001

rock_rebel · July 29, 2011, 03:05:18 PM

Quote from: sledge on July 24, 2011, 05:37:04 AM
Quote from: rock_rebel on July 24, 2011, 05:16:10 AM
Can I buy the pin separately or do I need the full shaft part?

The pin is available as an individual part. Shown as Number 5 on the crankshaft fiche, Suzuki part no 47113-001

Thanks!

rock_rebel · July 29, 2011, 03:07:44 PM

Could I just empty the tank and use carb cleaner? I'm not 100% confident about taking the carbs apart, because I have fear of losing a part or the bike blowing up once I put the carbs back

The carb removal section in the Clymer manual is detailed. Is there an easier way of cleaning the carbs without having to remove all those gaskets and needles?

ryott52 · July 29, 2011, 07:03:30 PM

If the bike is still not running once you've replaced that pin then you should tear the carbs apart to properly clean them. Carb cleaner is meant to be used on the metal parts of a disassembled carb, it will eat away the rubber and plastic parts, it's as caustic as brake fluid.

crzydood17 · July 29, 2011, 07:07:11 PM

i spray starter fluid through my carbs if i want to clean them a bit without disassembly

Big Rich · July 29, 2011, 07:36:36 PM

That's not a good idea......

Starter fluid is bad for rubber as well. Any dirt that it did remove would only be from the intake area of the carb. AND it would take that dirt and put it inside the cylinder.

Seriously, carbs are easy clean. All you need is the proper tools and a clean work bench (I place a towl or something down so small parts can't roll away).

crzydood17 · July 29, 2011, 08:22:08 PM

starter fluid is designed to be run through carbs... and any dirt it pushed through would be a minor thing to my bike not running correctly, most of the stuff that builds up and causes problems in a carb is either super fine dust or crap from the tank that is going in anyway... or it could be oil based and need to be removed and only petroleum products cut oil...

I sprayed starter fluid through my entire carb and fixed my rough idle issue so, if its "wrong" i dont wanna be right...

ryott52 · July 30, 2011, 03:54:59 AM

Yeah, but starter fluid is ether, butane, and propellant. It's designed to be run through carbs. It's not carb cleaner, which will eat up soft parts.

ben2go · August 01, 2011, 12:55:36 PM

This sounds like a bad petcock not allowing fuel to flow to the carbs.Bypass the frame mounted petcock and try that with fresh fuel.Have you pulled the plugs to see if they are firing?The ignition may not be getting any power.Checked the fuse?

ramennoodles · August 01, 2011, 04:25:31 PM

Quote from: ben2go on August 01, 2011, 12:55:36 PM
This sounds like a bad petcock not allowing fuel to flow to the carbs.Bypass the frame mounted petcock and try that with fresh fuel.Have you pulled the plugs to see if they are firing?The ignition may not be getting any power.Checked the fuse?

I thought it was kinda funny reading your response and looking at your avatar.

rock rebel, I think replace that pin first before you go and do anything like tearing your carbs apart.

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Think my bike is toast