PITA just died... again

[bigfatcat]

Have you considered that your ignition control module (black box) is failing?

I have had four different modules as I've looked for a good used one to take on trips as a spare. Of those, 3 have shown different types of failure - hard starting or low power, or inconsistent/low idle, failure to idle etc. including cutting out stone cold dead after starting and running fine for 5 minutes.

[numus]

Have you considered that your ignition control module (black box) is failing?

I have had four different modules as I've looked for a good used one to take on trips as a spare. Of those, 3 have shown different types of failure - hard starting or low power, or inconsistent/low idle, failure to idle etc. including cutting out stone cold dead after starting and running fine for 5 minutes.

Any way to test? Local shop thinks it is carbs..

[ramennoodles]

did you check to see if the gas cap is venting?

[numus]

did you check to see if the gas cap is venting?

You think this would have a greater effect when the tank is half empty?

[ramennoodles]

empty, half or full.  It will have the same effect.  Just clean it out to be sure.  Or ride it around  the block again and when it dies, open the gas cap and see if it starts back up right away

[numus]

empty, half or full.  It will have the same effect.  Just clean it out to be sure.  Or ride it around  the block again and when it dies, open the gas cap and see if it starts back up right away

When it dies.. If i let it sit for about a minute it will start right back up.. but then 1/4 a mile or so and it dies again....
This is all after the initial death which happens randomly (this morning it happened after 15 minutes of riding in semi-stop and go and some 50mph constant.

[bigfatcat]

Have you considered that your ignition control module (black box) is failing?

I have had four different modules as I've looked for a good used one to take on trips as a spare. Of those, 3 have shown different types of failure - hard starting or low power, or inconsistent/low idle, failure to idle etc. including cutting out stone cold dead after starting and running fine for 5 minutes.

Any way to test? Local shop thinks it is carbs..

If you're lucky it will be the carbs, relatively cheap to fix.

If not ...

You may be able to find a Suzuki dealer that has an electronic tester  and a tech that knows how to use it - otherwise borrow a black box from a bike that's running good ... maybe from someone who lives near you.

Even if the black box you have is good, it will still fail if the voltage supply to it cuts out, because of faulty clutch, sidestand, emergency stop, ignition switches, broken wire, corroded connectors ... There must be continuity from the battery positive thru the orange/white wire to the black box at all times for the bike to run.

Switches or broken wire can partially fail so that they intermittently cut out, resulting in running problems that come and go and are hard to diagnose.

And there must also be continuity from the box thru the black/white wire to battery negative, otherwise the bike won't run.

BTW wire colors are for a '95 from Haynes manual, yours may be different .

[numus]

Have you considered that your ignition control module (black box) is failing?

I have had four different modules as I've looked for a good used one to take on trips as a spare. Of those, 3 have shown different types of failure - hard starting or low power, or inconsistent/low idle, failure to idle etc. including cutting out stone cold dead after starting and running fine for 5 minutes.

Any way to test? Local shop thinks it is carbs..

If you're lucky it will be the carbs, relatively cheap to fix.

If not ...

You may be able to find a Suzuki dealer that has an electronic tester  and a tech that knows how to use it - otherwise borrow a black box from a bike that's running good ... maybe from someone who lives near you.

Even if the black box you have is good, it will still fail if the voltage supply to it cuts out, because of faulty clutch, sidestand, emergency stop, ignition switches, broken wire, corroded connectors ... There must be continuity from the battery positive thru the orange/white wire to the black box at all times for the bike to run.

Switches or broken wire can partially fail so that they intermittently cut out, resulting in running problems that come and go and are hard to diagnose.

And there must also be continuity from the box thru the black/white wire to battery negative, otherwise the bike won't run.

BTW wire colors are for a '95 from Haynes manual, yours may be different .

Been trying to figure it out based on the symptoms (I am an analytical chemist so i look at everything from an analytical approach). The hardest part for me to figure out is that it isn't an immediate cutoff... the bike looses power but will still run if I increase the throttle.. It is when i let off the throttle and the RPM's dip down that it then kills the motor... It is also VERY random when it happens.. but once it happens the first time it  will happen every few minutes after that.. but i have gone months without it showing up again.. This is why they believe it is the carbs and crap in them...

[ramennoodles]

you could also try some seafoam added into your gas.  Seafoam is great, I use it on my GS and cars.  I guess the correct way would be to take out carbs and clean, but seafoam is still tite.  and that gas tank cap not venting does cause the exact symptoms you are getting.  Engine shut off for a few minutes will allow the gas tank to release all that built up vacuum inside of it.  Then when it starts back up and you ride, the more gas you need the more vacuum gets built up.  Thats why it is important that the little tiny hole is open at the top of the tank

[numus]

Pita is getting a sister this weekend... Picking up a GSX600F since pita is no longer reliable.. Hopefully I can get her running again and then i can decide what I am going to do.

you could also try some seafoam added into your gas.  Seafoam is great, I use it on my GS and cars.  I guess the correct way would be to take out carbs and clean, but seafoam is still tite.  and that gas tank cap not venting does cause the exact symptoms you are getting.  Engine shut off for a few minutes will allow the gas tank to release all that built up vacuum inside of it.  Then when it starts back up and you ride, the more gas you need the more vacuum gets built up.  Thats why it is important that the little tiny hole is open at the top of the tank

There is Seafoam in the gastank right now... It died even with seafoam for a couple days.. I dont think it is the CDI anymore either...
We were able to get her cranked up with choke on, and even got the choke off but once she warmed up the engine died again... Then she wouldn't turn over until cold again...

Tried running it with the gas cap open and it still wont work... Think the carbs are just crapped up...

On a side note: Test drove a Ninja 650r... the bars are WAY to high and way to narrow and the bike is so light i thought it was just going to tip over while riding... was very uncomfortable on it... SV650 rode super nice but don't want to spend that much more then I am already spending...

[numus]

Pita got a new sister