News:

Need a manual?  Buy a Haynes manual Here

Main Menu

Any reason NOT to use new front calipers?

Started by adidasguy, September 13, 2011, 03:14:40 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

adidasguy

Junior is a 1992 and Trey is a 1994. As I change to SS lines, I decided to change out the calipers since the pads probably needed changing (rotors were nearly new as I did change wheels and put on nearly new OEM used rotors and dealer checked them & approved them for wear and no warping). Might as well have good brakes. Right? So is there any reason to rebuild old calipers or just put on newer calipers and pads from, say, a 2009 with 1000 miles on them? The cost of really good used calipers and pads is like $25 and it would cost more than that (plus the time) to rebuild 1992 calipers so I know the seals are all in good shape and put on new pads.

They fit the same. Doesn't mater whether old or newer forks, either (and how did I end up with 4 sets of extra forks in the bike cave?).

Here are old and new ones. My personal preference is to put new ones on all bikes so they all have the same pads and are (nearly) new. rear are the same for all models, no it is a no brainer to just get rear calipers from a 2009 with 1k miles rather than rebuild the old ones. (Who are these squids in the midwest that crash their new GS500's? Great source for cheap parts, though.)

New model on right, old ones on the left.


twocool

I think the trade off is between cost, and "newness"......If the cost is reasonable to you....go for new, or newer......Also I see you point about "sameness"..nice to have interchangeable parts on your two bikes....

There is nothing wrong with a rebuilt caliper, if the rebuild is done well and correctly......but if you can buy "almost new" good condition calipers for less than the cost of rebuild...It's a no brainer...

But you are not talking about absolutley "brand  new" calipers here, right?   Probably cost prohibitive to go "brand new" out of the box, never been touched by human hands, type of calipers?

Cooki

adidasguy

Actually 3 bikes: Suzi (2009), Junior (1992 now with 2009 forks and front calipers, master cylinder and SS lines) and Trey (still deciding what he wants to be, but no longer gender confused since he went from purple to blue).

I buy a lot of spares from pinwall cycle parts ( http://stores.ebay.com/PinWall-Cycle-Parts-Inc/_i.html?rt=nc&_nkw=gs500&_dmd=1&_sid=12458664&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14&_vc=1 ). They're a licensed bike breaker in Ohio. I like that they clearly photo the parts and point out any flaws. They even tell  you how many miles were on the bike before they broke it down and often have videos of the bike.

There are a couple other bike breakers on fleabay that are pretty good. But pinwall always clearly labels and cleans the parts (or the bikes are so new they don't need cleaning!)

Like $15 for rear brake calipers from a bike with 2000 miles ( http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Suzuki-GS500-GS-500-REAR-BRAKE-CALIPER-/370073507013?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item562a1994c5 ). Cheaper than buying brake pads? When you've got older bikes, it does make sense to buy newer parts. Handlebar switch assemblies for $15? Makes sense to replace old ones where the turn signal switch is starting to stick with new ones that aren't sun-faded.

On the other side, I do have a good dealer that tells me to buy the big jug of oil because it is cheaper than buying 2 quarts and knows I am doing more of my own work, but still helps me with whatever parts I need. (Crush washers & cotter pins - always buy new.)

I guess I am fortunate to have a dealer that appreciates my business and knows I am learning to do my own work. They'll stay in business because they are into bikes and customer service - not selling me things I don't need.

I have the philosophy of "Always leave it better than it was before you worked on it". Mainly for house fixing up, but applies to bikes as well. If I can put on a nearly new caliper or other part to replace a 20 year old part - then it is better than it was. If it is cheaper to rebuild (or I want to learn how to do it and have the time) - then I do that.

Example: junior had a fork leak.
I didn't want to spend $150 for the dealer to fix them because it is something I should learn to do. So I spent the same for a set of 2009 forks (they were in a thread, $99 plus shipping, but the others didn't have the money so I snatched them up, bike with under 2000 miles on it) I did learn how to replace springs (from centuryghost) so those forks got progressive springs (bought from a board member in Canada), then after I put them on I added fog lights and new reflectors. Now I learned how to rebuild forks with the help of another board member (nonfiction) here in West Seattle.

I guess in the end, I spent the same but can now replace seals in the 4 other sets of forks in the bike cave then sell a set or two and be ahead financially to support the cave - and knowing more about maintaining my bikes. if calipers with nearly new pads were $100, then I'd rebuild them. For $15-$25 - just buy them and plop them on. I won't throw the old ones out. They will be given to someone here that wants them.

As we are at the end of the riding season, there is a glut of GS500 parts available. I'm stocking up for the future and the bike build project.


burning1

I ran the newer style callipers on my race bike. IMO, they work much better than the old style callipers; they are a little stiffer, so better feel and power through the lever. Pads are a little easier to find as well, since they take the same parts as the SV-650. In fact, the SV-650 right side calliper is a direct bolt-on part for the GS500, confirmed by the part numbers.

One thing to keep in mind; the newer style calliper was re-designed. Although externally identical, the piston and gasket sizes have changed slightly, meaning that the rebuild kits are not compatible. Make sure you know what bike your calliper came off of, as to avoid confusion.

One nice thing about suzuki parts... The rebuild kits are for sale, relatively cheap. Makes it easy to rebuild the callipers for less stiction. I generally rebuild every calliper I use before installing it with new parts.

adidasguy

#4
That's what I needed to know - the newer calipers are better than the old ones.
I really started doing it when I replaced Juniors forks. The right fork leaked and some goop got onto the brake calipers. Since I had an SS line to put on, I decided to put on the newer brakes I had on the shelf, rather than take the time to disassemble the old ones and clean the fork oil out of them (they were 1992 and probably never rebuilt, but weren't leaking and did have relatively new pads as shown in the photo).
If I was racing I'd worry more. For street riding, I doubt I'll have to do anything more for quite some time unless there is a catastrophic failure (i.e. a leak or defective brake pad).

Actually, externally they are not identical. You can see the 2 different sizes of pistons by looking at the casing and the mounting bracket on the old ones looks as if you could mount them a couple different ways or on either side of the bike. Newer ones have only 2 mounting holes and the casing shows the same size for the 2 pistons. You are right that a rebuilt kit would have to be for the correct set. (Though, I will have to go through my parts bins. There could be a 3rd model of front brake caliper that has 2 sizes of pistons like the old ones and only 2 mounting holes like the new ones.)

As for the SS lines, I have a couple laying around. Is that 10 degree bend at the banjo fitting really important, or does that identify it as a rear line .vs. a front brake line? They're the same length and both fit just fine.

burning1

Sorry, what I meant was: There are two different versions of the new style calliper. While visually identical, both taking the same brake pads, the rebuild kits are slightly different, and incompatible. If you know what bike the calliper came off of, it's not too difficult to find the correct rebuild kit. This is kind of a trap as well, as the fiche will list the rebuild kit for the newer calliper as an updated part for the old rebuild kit, even though the two are not the same. If you use the updated 2nd gen calliper, use the updated 2nd gen rebuild kit.

adidasguy

OK. Thanks for the update. Any way to really tell the difference? Do you know what year they made a change?
Checking my recent buying, they are all from 2009 bikes.
Probably I'll never have to rebuild them - since just street riding and I switch between bikes so the mileage gets spread out between them.


burning1

I just checked the Fiche...

1989-1995 get the Gen 1 brake Calliper
1996-2003 get the Gen 2 Rev 1 Brake Calliper
2004-Current get the Gen 2 Rev 2 Brake Calliper (As do most SVs, and a number of other Suzuki bikes.)

Ron Ayers Fiche lists the rebuild kit for the 1996-2003 bikes as discontinued, so if you're looking for a brake upgrade, the latest model is probably your best bet. Also, it's worth cross referencing the part online... You might find it cheaper from a bike other than the GS... E.g. I got mine from the right fork leg of a SV650.

adidasguy

Great info.
Thanks for looking it up - you know brakes and bikes much better than me.
I'm trying to go with the newest parts with the lowest mileage. Seems like a good option rather than rebuilding older parts (I'll learn to do that, just not on my schedule right now.)

Thanks again and here's your coupon:

******************* COUPON ****************************
* Good for one free wrench day and unlimited beer in the bike cave *
*******************************************************

burning1

Since I'm racing the GS, my policy is to rebuild before install, and every 12 months after that. I realize that it's kind of atypical for these bikes, though. :)

SAFE-T

Quote from: adidasguy on September 13, 2011, 05:53:02 PMOK. Thanks for the update. Any way to really tell the difference? Do you know what year they made a change?

GS500 Wiki says calipers changed in 1996. The new caliper looks different, with equal size pistons whereas the older one has different size pistons.

burning1

Should have read the thread all the way through, SAFE-T. ;)

SAFE-T


SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk