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Is there any Noob Gen. Info Sticky anywhere?

Started by LuciStar, November 08, 2011, 09:47:49 PM

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LuciStar

We all gotta start somewhere.. but while i'm riding I always feel like I have a million question i'd like to ask experienced riders, but don't really have anyone to ask because I don't know many people that ride. Like about how to downshift most efficiently... or best way to use the clutch to come up to a stop.. or tips on driving in rain.. etc etc... so I wondered if there is a sticky note on here somewhere of just like "General Info you should know" for new riders...? I read the two on the group riding & pacing, but that still doesn't really answer my questions. If not, then any good info you have to offer, i'd love to hear it!
People make time for the things they want to make time for.

Big Rich

I dont know about any threads like that specifically, but I do recommend going to a local MSF class.
83 GR650 (riding / rolling project)

It's opener there in the wide open air...

rayshon

yeah take MSF.

Also proper coming-to-a-stop is pretty debated (i like to downshift with rev matching one or 2 gears then clutch in and coast, but others prefer to just clutch in and coast and other methods)

Paulcet

No noob sticky here, but you can get some good info if you just ask... But beware.  Much of the advice you get in a forum is worth exactly what you paid for it!  One good place to look is beginnerbikers.org.  And a Basic Rider Course would be well worth it: http://online2.msf-usa.org/msf/Default.aspx

With that said, I'll try to give a couple of tips.

Downshifting, coming to a stop: leave the clutch engaged, begin braking.  When the engine RPM reaches about 2000, pull the clutch lever and click down a gear.  Keep the clutch pulled in.  When you've slowed another 5 mph, click down another gear or two.  Another 5 mph, click down again... another 5 mph, another gear.  By this point you are probably under 10 mph and should be in 2nd gear.  When at almost 0 mph, get in 1st gear.  Step on the lever a couple of extra times to make sure you are really in 1st.    Practice, practice.   It will become natural after a while.   When at a traffic light, stay in 1st gear!  Don't be in neutral unless you are SURE you are not going to get pounded in the rear by some jack-ass in a SUV who's not paying attention.

'97 GS500E Custom by dgyver: GSXR rear shock | SV gauges | Yoshi exh. | K & N Lunchbox | Kat forks | Custom rearsets | And More!

LuciStar

I actually did take the MSF (well its obligatory here in FL, unless you wanna go to court & pay fees). It taught me a decent amount, but it doesn't teach you refined skills for smoother/safer riding. It just teaches some defensive riding & basic controls... & what to do if a dog decides to chase you. lol

I'm mostly looking for like general tips & advice.
People make time for the things they want to make time for.

rayshon

Quote from: LuciStar on November 08, 2011, 10:40:40 PM
I actually did take the MSF (well its obligatory here in FL, unless you wanna go to court & pay fees). It taught me a decent amount, but it doesn't teach you refined skills for smoother/safer riding. It just teaches some defensive riding & basic controls... & what to do if a dog decides to chase you. lol

I'm mostly looking for like general tips & advice.

a lot of that comes with time on the road :)

LuciStar

Well let me ask this: is there any situation where you might turn the bike off while at a light (a very long light) to avoid overheating? Or is overheating something I should even worry about? & if it is, how long can I sit before I should worry?
People make time for the things they want to make time for.

Big Rich

The only way for an air cooled bike to overheat is a lack of maintenance. Low oil, running the engine lean, throttle pegged WFO at a red light, etc.
83 GR650 (riding / rolling project)

It's opener there in the wide open air...

rayshon

Quote from: LuciStar on November 08, 2011, 10:44:41 PM
Well let me ask this: is there any situation where you might turn the bike off while at a light (a very long light) to avoid overheating? Or is overheating something I should even worry about? & if it is, how long can I sit before I should worry?

even on 100F days you could leave it on idle for about half an hourish probably more before you get problems

mister

1 - the GS500 sitting at a set of lights will not overheat

2 - *I* never coast in neutral. I ALWAYS downshift one gear, release the clutch to let the engine brake a little, then clutch in down shift and release, repeat. By doing this I am always in the correct gear for my speed should I need to accelerate away. And it does not require me to look at the speedo as I do it.

3 - Rain. A lot of rain riding is psychological. That is, you think because it's wet you will slip and slide everywhere. While this Can be the case on road lines and certain greasy roads, in general, rain riding is no different to dry riding. Take corners a little slower and you'll be fine. Also, watch out for puddles or spots on the road where water has gathered.

4 - Get a copy of Twist of The Wrist II by Keith Code and watch it and put it into practice. Can't hurt to also grab a copy of  Ride Like a Pro V by Jerry "motorman" Palladino

5 - Own your lane. That is, do not ride in the lane and be riding right next to the curb cause you'll just be inviting people in.

6 - Every intersection has a debris zone, just the size and amount of debris varies. Take the corner to late/early as the case may be and you'll be leaning over while encountering gravel. Lowside is the result.

7 - If you lock up the rear brake and the back starts going out, do NOT release the brake you will highside. Keep the brake locked until the bike has straightened itself.

8 - When changing lanes, indicate and look, then change. While drivers might not register an indicator they will notice your head look and that tells them you are moving lanes.

9 - A bike can slow without using brakes. Drivers do not know this and may run up your rear. So when slowing with the engine, lightly tap your brake to illuminate the light, or give a few pulses to flash the light so drivers behind know something is going on.

Michael
GS Picture Game - Lists of Completed Challenges & Current Challenge http://tinyurl.com/GS500PictureGame and http://tinyurl.com/GS500PictureGameList2

GS500 Round Aust Relay http://tinyurl.com/GS500RoundAustRelay

Twisted

#10
Quote from: mister on November 09, 2011, 12:41:44 AM


3 - Rain. A lot of rain riding is psychological. That is, you think because it's wet you will slip and slide everywhere. While this Can be the case on road lines and certain greasy roads, in general, rain riding is no different to dry riding. Take corners a little slower and you'll be fine. Also, watch out for puddles or spots on the road where water has gathered.


Also look out for rainbow coloured patches on the road when it is wet. This is where oil or fuel has been.

My instructor told us when I did my riding course to avoid white lines and man hole covers on the road even in the dry. The case being if you avoid them in the dry you are going to avoid them in the wet. It will become 2nd nature.

redhawkdancing

Get a copy of "Proficient Motorcycling: The Ultimate Guide to Riding Well" by David L. Hough.

It will keep you and your scoot in one piece long enough to kind of of figure out what is going on. He probably rides more conservative than most riders, but he has been riding forever.  Might be some correlation there!   :cheers:

steezin_and_wheezin

#12
check out some moto books/movies. off the top of my mind, "twist of the wrist 2" movie and book is Great. the movie's cheesy, but has some really awesome info. learned quite a bit of things i've never thought about before. i think the cheesy factor helped deflate my ego while watching hahah you can illegally download the book and movie

another i have yet to pickup, my copy will be shipping soon.. "Smooth Riding the Pridmore Way" by Reg Pridmore. this is the guy that helps with a track riding instruction class. i'm taking the class next summer and will have read the book front to back before meeting the man in person!

more saddle time definitely helps smooth things out as well
if yer binders ain't squeakin, you ain't tweakin!

LuciStar

Thank you everyone for the responses & advice. I will definitely check out the movies & books recommended. Seems like a few people recommend the Twist of the Wrist film, so absolutely going to watch that.

Today I had to use my reserve tank for the first time while on the 408 highway and going like 70mph. O_O  I slowed a little, got over to the side out of the way & reached down and switched it while driving. I would have never been able to do that if a friend of mine hadn't suggested that I practice knowing where it is & how to get to it in case I had to switch it while moving. I am glad I listened! lol
People make time for the things they want to make time for.

steezin_and_wheezin

if yer binders ain't squeakin, you ain't tweakin!

TheGoodGuy

I think its time we make one. However here are some tips from me.


1. To steady the bike, clamp the tank with your knees when riding straight. In corners you use counter steering at times. That will come with practice, read "twist of the wrist II"


2. When at the lights, always be in first gear (stop in first gear), and stay in gear. If you need to relax the left hand, move to neutral only after you got a car behind you, otherwise stay in first. Also always put left leg down while resting at the light, right leg on rear brake, so you are ready to get away if there is something like someone did not see you stop.


3. It helps flashing the brake pedal (front or back) until the car behind you has come to a stop, many a time cars dont pay attention to the rear brakes without it flashing.


4. One of the first mods that I put in was a 2nd set of running lights / brake lights that are below the main light, its wired to the main light, so when it goes off, it makes the bike more visible.


5. Never ride when the sun is in your eyes (aka: morning / evening) time. Dusk and dawn are the worst. If you got to ride, be extra careful. Especially if you are riding against the direction of the sun. When riding in day time, run high beams, night time low beams. At night do not ride faster than what the headlights can illuminate, aka: slow down, ride at a pace where you can see whats coming up and gives you time to react.


6. Pack a 'florescent' safety vest to put over your jacket when riding at night, makes you more visible. I have a cheap one from Amazon. Its got a zipper in the front, I can put it on top of my jacket. Mine is Safety Yellow. Also while at it, get some safety reflective 'tape' thing that bicyclists use for night riding, you strap it to your pant leg (goes over like a strap) and it provides reflective backing for night driving.


7. Make sure you got the right type of boots, jacket, gloves and helmet. Wear it all times! Crashing is part of the game. People crash first time usually after 3 months of riding when the confidence levels go up and they start doing other crap.


8. Invest in a tank bag (newenough.com closeouts if needed), do not keep keys, wallet, etc etc on you. Keep them on the tank bag. Also get a bungie thing for storing stuff behind you. In your tank bag keep a tire pressure monitor (check before each ride). Also keep stuff like a flash light in there. Never know when you will need one to flag someone down at night. When I ride, I have a small plastic laminated card that carries all important information (insurance provider), contacts, etc etc. Its attached to my belt buckle by a short plastic lanyard. You can also keep it attached to the tank bag.


9. When the bike battery is dead in winter / summer, you can jump start it. Put it in 5th or 6th gear, have someone push you while you ride the clutch, then pop the clutch, it should start right up.


10. When going up hill and you cant see the other side of the road, slow down, you may have a stalled car, bike or a curve you do not see. This is the same thing for canyons where you cant see through the entire turn. I've had friends who crashed in exact situations.




Welcome to GStwin :)
'01 GS500. Mods: Katana Shock, Progessive Springs, BobB's V&H  Advancer Clone, JeffD's LED tail lights & LED licence plate bolt running lights, flanders superbike bars, magnet under the bike. Recent mods: Rejet with 20/62.5/145, 3 shims on needle, K&N Lunch box.

fraze11

#16
Quote from: rayshon on November 08, 2011, 10:42:18 PM
Quote from: LuciStar on November 08, 2011, 10:40:40 PM
I actually did take the MSF (well its obligatory here in FL, unless you wanna go to court & pay fees). It taught me a decent amount, but it doesn't teach you refined skills for smoother/safer riding. It just teaches some defensive riding & basic controls... & what to do if a dog decides to chase you. lol

I'm mostly looking for like general tips & advice.

a lot of that comes with time on the road :)
+1
Although general tips, others experiences, books, video's etc are good to read and hear .. IMO nothing beats miles under your belt.  I agree with you, the MSF breezes over alot but focuses on no one thing exclusively.  The more you ride the more you'll learn.  Believe me, when you make an error or experience a "holy sh!t" moment, you'll remember it more than anything anyone could ever tell you..and you won't do it again :)

Enjoy!
2009 GS500F, 2003 CBR F4i

bombshelter13

Basic GS roadside service kit:

Things to have in your tank bag:
- Tire pressure guage.
- Small flashlight.
- Small (1/4" is fine) ratchet with these sockets: 8mm, 10mm,  12mm and an 18mm sparkplug socket.
- Wrenches in 8mm, 10mm and 12mm - if you get small double ended wrenches you can do this with two wrenches.
- Set of metric allen keys.
- Small phillips and flathead screwdrivers.
- Small needlenose pliars.
- Some kind of tape.
- Some zipties.
- Exacto knife.

I can fit all this in one of the small side pockets of my tank bag - if you find you can't, you probably bought tools that are too big.

A few of these items do exist in the stock toolkit under the seat if you have it, but I found the quality wasn't so great on the included ones... you might leave out a couple of the ones I listed if you like the stock ones, no point duplicating tools.

Also:

- A long (10-12" is good) flathead screwdriver. Don't put this in the tankbag, take two or three zipties and secure it it TIGHTLY (you don't want it flying off and bouncing around near the rear wheel) to one of the subframe bars under your seat. This screwdriver is for turning the tank-mounted petcock if you need to.

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