New GS owner! Questions!

[mister]

You'll need to investigate a few things...

Point 1 - chain being neglected is a sign other maintenance was also neglected so...

Change the oil and filter
Take a good hard look at the tires - when were they made, what condition are they in
Look real close at the front and rear sprocket. if they chain is so bad chances are both sprockets will also need to be replaced.

When you get your new chain, be sure to keep up the chain lube. I use Belray Super Clean. Others use Motul lubes. I have tried lanolin on the GS and while it does well it is sticky and crud gets all over the chain. Also tried WD40 exclusively for my first chain. Did me for over 20,000km but I've now got my miles on my second chain using Belray and it is still sweet 

Now about your high start idle with choke... put it on full choke and start the bike. Let it rev to its 5k. But, give the choke some small taps in the reducing direction. The choke can be quite sensitive. This is so you can find your sweet spot.

Michael

[Kijona]

You'll need to investigate a few things...

Point 1 - chain being neglected is a sign other maintenance was also neglected so...

Change the oil and filter
Take a good hard look at the tires - when were they made, what condition are they in
Look real close at the front and rear sprocket. if they chain is so bad chances are both sprockets will also need to be replaced.

When you get your new chain, be sure to keep up the chain lube. I use Belray Super Clean. Others use Motul lubes. I have tried lanolin on the GS and while it does well it is sticky and crud gets all over the chain. Also tried WD40 exclusively for my first chain. Did me for over 20,000km but I've now got my miles on my second chain using Belray and it is still sweet 

Now about your high start idle with choke... put it on full choke and start the bike. Let it rev to its 5k. But, give the choke some small taps in the reducing direction. The choke can be quite sensitive. This is so you can find your sweet spot.

Michael

Yeah, I changed the oil in her. It was a good bit low but whatever. No racket or running problems so I'm sure it's fine. No metal bits in the filter or anything so that's another good thing..

Yeah, the front sprocket has curved teeth so...that thing is done. I'm gonna replace front and rear and get a nice DID chain maybe. Dunno yet. I just know I won't be putting a piece of junk on there.

I've got another few quick questions to ask...one...is it an issue that I hear a very faint "ticking" sound after it warms up and I've ridden it for a while and it's idling in neutral? It sounds like maybe it's coming from the motor but it COULD be in the transmission. It's intermittent.

Another is I noticed that if you try to blip the throttle (after being warmed up), it'll fart a little bit. Almost sounds like a backfire but isn't pronounced.

One more thing...I noticed that when it's cold, if I don't give it a LOT of time warming up with the choke on, it'll knock if I turn the choke off. It's like a "CLUNK" and the engine almost dies. Of course I don't let it do this continuously but I'm just wondering if that's an indication of a more severe problem.

[Kijona]

Here's a video of me starting the bike. Because it wasn't 40° and more like 60° it didn't do the high-rev thing. Still should be able to get a good clip of how the motor sounds. This was after it sat ALL night without being started.

Let me know what you guys think. Tell me if you notice anything out of place.

Oh...I meant to mention...the chain issue is from being a piece of crap chain they got off ebay..he actually did lube it pretty frequently, and, in fact, used way too much because the back sprocket is covered in green slime. Nasty.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vlwH9AgY0ww&feature=youtu.be

[Paulcet]

Looks and sounds pretty normal to me, bearing in mind I'm listening on a laptop.

[Dr.McNinja]

So what weight Rotella-T should I be putting in it or should I not? I mean...I know tons of people swear by it.

15w-40 weight. It's fine for all seasons. Change your oil and oil filter every 3000 miles, just like a car. If you rev your engine like crazy every time you ride, use fully synthetic. If you just putter around, use regular. You DO need to use motorcycle oil...here's why:

http://youtu.be/A2cx16Pq6iM?t=2m17s

I use Motul and I swear by it. It hasn't failed me thus far and I'd much rather spend more money on high quality fully synthetic oil than save money and take a risk with car oil.


@OP

You'll find there are quite a few "use the cheapest filter/oil available" people here. It's all broscience. However, the evidence for using motorcycle oil vs car oil is not only obvious it's critical. Use a motorcycle oil.

[BaltimoreGS]

So what weight Rotella-T should I be putting in it or should I not? I mean...I know tons of people swear by it.

15w-40 weight. It's fine for all seasons. Change your oil and oil filter every 3000 miles, just like a car. If you rev your engine like crazy every time you ride, use fully synthetic. If you just putter around, use regular. You DO need to use motorcycle oil...here's why:

http://youtu.be/A2cx16Pq6iM?t=2m17s

I use Motul and I swear by it. It hasn't failed me thus far and I'd much rather spend more money on high quality fully synthetic oil than save money and take a risk with car oil.


@OP

You'll find there are quite a few "use the cheapest filter/oil available" people here. It's all broscience. However, the evidence for using motorcycle oil vs car oil is not only obvious it's critical. Use a motorcycle oil.

Sorry to beat a dead horse by discussing oil but I hate to see misinformation passed on to noobs.  That video says you don't want to use "car oil" which is true.  Modern automotive oil weights (10w30, 5w30, 5w20, 0w20, etc.) have friction modifiers which are designated on the API seal as "energy conserving" that will wreak havoc on a wet clutch.  Conventional diesel oils like Rotella  (and most automotive 10w40 and 20w50) do not have these friction modifiers.  Lots of agricultural equipment has wet clutches just like a motorcycle which has the same "shear force" that the guy talks about in the video.  I was talking to the Drydene (Castrol) sales rep we buy our bulk oil at work from and he said the only difference between the motorcycle oil and the regular oil "is the bottle we put it in."  So in short, use whatever oil makes you feel warm and fuzzy inside; just know that buying less expensive oil doesn't mean you'll be doing your bike a disservice   

-Jessie

[mister]

Just some FYI regardling Motul oil.... they make car oil and motorcycle oil. The motorcycle oil is the Factoryline blend. Their others have friction modifiers in it. I was using motul 5100 and was pleased - it is also what my local Suzuki dealer uses. I have upgraded to the Motul 300v, much more pricey but no false neutrals and easier gear changing - also - I can now push the bike around in gear without the engine running. Not possible with 5100 or other oils.

Yes an oil needs to make you warm and fuzzy... but it also needs to work with the clutch and gearing system. If you are getting false neutrals and clunky gear changes in your chosen brand of truck oil, try switching to a more motorcycle specific brand (such as motul 5100 for example) to see if your gear changing issues go away.

BTW, my motul looks like honey on the dipstick (not like this black crud). And, if you bother, motul oil smells nice too 

Michael