Oil and Fuel in the airbox and Other Random Problems - New Owner Post

[Kijona]

Do you have a set of stock jets too? You don't need to remove the jets to see what size they are. I would try to return the bike to as close to stock as possible. If you're running pods with #37 pilot jets then there's really no wonder why the SOB doesn't run.  I know you didn't put it like that though.

My philosophy is...start from the beginning. Get it back to the way it was made...then go from there. Do you happen to have the stock airbox/filter?

[Kijona]

Mmmm...

Shine a bright light, or use a hand-held mirror, down in there and see. You should be able to make out their size. You can also tell if you've boogered them up. A flat-blade screwdriver that's slightly smaller than the channel should work. Just slide it down in there and with gentle pressure, turn it until you feel the blade go into the slot on the jet. Then with moderate pressure (10lbs maybe...5?) down on it, begin SLOWLY turning it.

Before doing that, I'd go buy yourself some "Liquid Wrench - Penetrating Lube" and spray it in there. Let sit for a few minutes. Should work.

[shonole]

I do.  I've got a pair of 122.5s.  I'm actually getting another box from adidasguy, so all I'll have to do is buy a new filter.

I've got some PB Blaster, so I'll spray it down later today and see how it goes.

[Kijona]

I do.  I've got a pair of 122.5s.  I'm actually getting another box from adidasguy, so all I'll have to do is buy a new filter.

I've got some PB Blaster, so I'll spray it down later today and see how it goes.

Excellent! And hey man...let me suggest an EXCELLENT bit driver set:

http://www.frys.com/product/4292254?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG

If the shipping is cheaper than it would be to order it here: http://compare.ebay.com/like/110804799126?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&_lwgsi=y&cbt=y

Or...if you have a Fry's anywhere near you...it'd be cool to get it from the store. I have a set and let me tell you it has come in HANDY for precision stuff like what you're trying to do.

[shonole]

I'll have to check into getting one of those.  I have some precision screwdrivers, but they're so hard to grip well.

Well, I put RTV on the leaking carb boot yesterday, started the bike and....

You guessed it!  Still idling at 4Krpm.  I've got some rubber undercoating spray I'm going to try today, until the new boots come from adidasguy.   

When I strip it down, I'm going to go ahead and put the stock main jets and needles back in, along with a new (stock) air filter.  Hopefully somewhere along the line the right cylinder will decide to join in the party!   

[shonole]

OKay, got the new boots in from Adidas and installed them.  I also swapped a new coil on, and when I first started the bike, the right side fired and the left side didn't (opposite of what I had been experiencing).  I pulled the right plug wire to see if it was firing, and the bike died.  I then checked the left side, replugged the right and fired her up.  With half choke she was idling great.  I slowly worked her off of choke, and boom, she started idling crazy high again.   

Symptoms:

Still idling high with idle air screw almost all the way closed, and idle adjustment almost all the way out.  New boots on both sides of the carb, so there shouldn't be any vacuum leaks.  And I STILL can't figure out why it won't fire on the right side (other than for the brief seconds it did when I first started it.

Also, checked the float bowl height using a tube.  Filled up to slightly below gasket level, so I assume that wouldn't be part of the problem.

I'm getting desperate here.  Any one have any fresh thoughts?

[twinrat]

have you checked the carbs are synchronized?also chec that your coils are earthing properly like back to bare metal  where they earth

[piresito]

Petcock diaphragm, is it ok? Clogged carb breather?
Wouldn't valves out of adjustment be a cause of rough idle?
Sometimes, solid state devices start to fail intermittently until they fail totally. Is there a way for you to ckeck if your CDI is good?

There is some more fun to you!! 

[shonole]

Petcock diaphragm, is it ok? Clogged carb breather?
Wouldn't valves out of adjustment be a cause of rough idle?
Sometimes, solid state devices start to fail intermittently until they fail totally. Is there a way for you to ckeck if your CDI is good?

There is some more fun to you!! 

Petcock is functioning, breather is clear.  I've got a valve kit on the way, so that is the next major thing I will be working on.

I'm not sure who to check the CDI, any tips?  I have a multimeter, guess I could start there.

[piresito]

Petcock diaphragm, is it ok? Clogged carb breather?
Wouldn't valves out of adjustment be a cause of rough idle?
Sometimes, solid state devices start to fail intermittently until they fail totally. Is there a way for you to ckeck if your CDI is good?

There is some more fun to you!! 

Petcock is functioning, breather is clear.  I've got a valve kit on the way, so that is the next major thing I will be working on.

I'm not sure who to check the CDI, any tips?  I have a multimeter, guess I could start there.

Checking the CDI, the only way I know is to try a good CDI and look for a diference. :-s
Despite of petckock funcioning, did you really inspect its diaphragm? If its cracked there is going to be problems. I'm remembering that the Orings in the vacuum ports of the carbs is a item that used to be forgoten.A re you sure you didn't forget them?

The GAS in there, is good fresh gas?

Don't know if you checked this:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=48746.0

Try to hit with a chopstick in every wire and tube (fuel and drains) of the bike, with the bike at idle, so if you can hear a change when you hit certain part...

[shonole]

Petcock diaphragm, is it ok? Clogged carb breather?
Wouldn't valves out of adjustment be a cause of rough idle?
Sometimes, solid state devices start to fail intermittently until they fail totally. Is there a way for you to ckeck if your CDI is good?

There is some more fun to you!! 

Petcock is functioning, breather is clear.  I've got a valve kit on the way, so that is the next major thing I will be working on.

I'm not sure who to check the CDI, any tips?  I have a multimeter, guess I could start there.

Checking the CDI, the only way I know is to try a good CDI and look for a diference. :-s
Despite of petckock funcioning, did you really inspect its diaphragm? If its cracked there is going to be problems. I'm remembering that the Orings in the vacuum ports of the carbs is a item that used to be forgoten.A re you sure you didn't forget them?

The GAS in there, is good fresh gas?

Don't know if you checked this:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=48746.0

Try to hit with a chopstick in every wire and tube (fuel and drains) of the bike, with the bike at idle, so if you can hear a change when you hit certain part...

I opened the petcock up a couple of weeks ago and it looked good.  Maybe I messed it up?   

O rings are brand new (Thanks Kijona!) Gas is fresh.  I'll try the chopstick method.

Went out this morning to check on the bike.  Replaced the right side coil with one from Adidas.  Started the bike and it ran on both cylinders!     Unfortunately it was still idling a little high (1500rpm or so).  Anyway, I left her running to see how things went and about 4 minutes later, she the idles climbed back to 3500-4000rpm and it started running on one cylinder again.   

Also, while it was running on both cylinders, I tried adjusting the idle air screws to help the idle (as the main idle screw is backed almost all the way out) and when I adjusted on the right cylinder, it had no effect.  However, on adjusting the left, it did bring the idle down.  Unfortunately, the idle air screws are almost closed and I KNOW that's not right.

[Kijona]

Petcock diaphragm, is it ok? Clogged carb breather?
Wouldn't valves out of adjustment be a cause of rough idle?
Sometimes, solid state devices start to fail intermittently until they fail totally. Is there a way for you to ckeck if your CDI is good?

There is some more fun to you!! 

Petcock is functioning, breather is clear.  I've got a valve kit on the way, so that is the next major thing I will be working on.

I'm not sure who to check the CDI, any tips?  I have a multimeter, guess I could start there.

Checking the CDI, the only way I know is to try a good CDI and look for a diference. :-s
Despite of petckock funcioning, did you really inspect its diaphragm? If its cracked there is going to be problems. I'm remembering that the Orings in the vacuum ports of the carbs is a item that used to be forgoten.A re you sure you didn't forget them?

The GAS in there, is good fresh gas?

Don't know if you checked this:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=48746.0

Try to hit with a chopstick in every wire and tube (fuel and drains) of the bike, with the bike at idle, so if you can hear a change when you hit certain part...

I opened the petcock up a couple of weeks ago and it looked good.  Maybe I messed it up?   

O rings are brand new (Thanks Kijona!) Gas is fresh.  I'll try the chopstick method.

Went out this morning to check on the bike.  Replaced the right side coil with one from Adidas.  Started the bike and it ran on both cylinders!     Unfortunately it was still idling a little high (1500rpm or so).  Anyway, I left her running to see how things went and about 4 minutes later, she the idles climbed back to 3500-4000rpm and it started running on one cylinder again.   

Also, while it was running on both cylinders, I tried adjusting the idle air screws to help the idle (as the main idle screw is backed almost all the way out) and when I adjusted on the right cylinder, it had no effect.  However, on adjusting the left, it did bring the idle down.  Unfortunately, the idle air screws are almost closed and I KNOW that's not right.

Sounds like MAYBE one of your needles is broken. Reason I say this is because with the screws all the way closed, the bike should not run at all. The fact that it's running that high with them closed means you've still got a vacuum leak somewhere. Remove the needle screws entirely (careful, they're held in with springs) and check them. Also be sure to check the o-rings on them as well if you haven't already.

I had one of mine break and I experienced similar issues.

Don't worry, new ones are only $8 if memory serves.

You should also be collecting items to make a carb sync tool. You'll need about 15-20 feet of aquarium tubing, water, food coloring, a magic marker, and a long (3-5ft) board.

[shonole]

Petcock diaphragm, is it ok? Clogged carb breather?
Wouldn't valves out of adjustment be a cause of rough idle?
Sometimes, solid state devices start to fail intermittently until they fail totally. Is there a way for you to ckeck if your CDI is good?

There is some more fun to you!! 

Petcock is functioning, breather is clear.  I've got a valve kit on the way, so that is the next major thing I will be working on.

I'm not sure who to check the CDI, any tips?  I have a multimeter, guess I could start there.

Checking the CDI, the only way I know is to try a good CDI and look for a diference. :-s
Despite of petckock funcioning, did you really inspect its diaphragm? If its cracked there is going to be problems. I'm remembering that the Orings in the vacuum ports of the carbs is a item that used to be forgoten.A re you sure you didn't forget them?

The GAS in there, is good fresh gas?

Don't know if you checked this:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=48746.0

Try to hit with a chopstick in every wire and tube (fuel and drains) of the bike, with the bike at idle, so if you can hear a change when you hit certain part...

I opened the petcock up a couple of weeks ago and it looked good.  Maybe I messed it up?   

O rings are brand new (Thanks Kijona!) Gas is fresh.  I'll try the chopstick method.

Went out this morning to check on the bike.  Replaced the right side coil with one from Adidas.  Started the bike and it ran on both cylinders!     Unfortunately it was still idling a little high (1500rpm or so).  Anyway, I left her running to see how things went and about 4 minutes later, she the idles climbed back to 3500-4000rpm and it started running on one cylinder again.   

Also, while it was running on both cylinders, I tried adjusting the idle air screws to help the idle (as the main idle screw is backed almost all the way out) and when I adjusted on the right cylinder, it had no effect.  However, on adjusting the left, it did bring the idle down.  Unfortunately, the idle air screws are almost closed and I KNOW that's not right.

Sounds like MAYBE one of your needles is broken. Reason I say this is because with the screws all the way closed, the bike should not run at all. The fact that it's running that high with them closed means you've still got a vacuum leak somewhere. Remove the needle screws entirely (careful, they're held in with springs) and check them. Also be sure to check the o-rings on them as well if you haven't already.

I had one of mine break and I experienced similar issues.

Don't worry, new ones are only $8 if memory serves.

You should also be collecting items to make a carb sync tool. You'll need about 15-20 feet of aquarium tubing, water, food coloring, a magic marker, and a long (3-5ft) board.

Checked the needles, both were okay.  Removed the needle screws, and one of them was missing an o-ring entirely.   

Replaced the o-ring, put it back together, and I've still got issues.  I've definitely narrowed it down now.  I have the right cylinder firing (Thank God!)  , and now all I have to do is get this idle issue sorted out.  I pulled the left plug wire, and adjusted the idle, and it fired and ran great on the right cylinder.  I then left everything along, unplugged the right wire, plugged in the left, and it idles on the left cylinder at about 6000rpm.  Seems like a massive vacuum leak on that side, no?

Now I just have to find it.  I'm pretty sure it's inside the carbs, somewhere.

Man, you're not going to believe this.  I thought about what you said, and how I really needed to sync my carbs (still do), so I got to looking at it to see how off it was, and the adjustment screw to sync the carbs was MISSING.      Took the screw off the other set of carbs, and temporarily adjusted it so that it would idle okay, and now I've got it running.  Gonna let it run for awhile and see if that resolved the issue.

Update:

I'm guessing these carbs are in desperate need of synching.  The right cylinder will now idle fine, but the left won't stay running unless I give it gas.  Could float levels cause this?  I'm about to check them again.  Also, if my float levels are low (don't reach the gasket level) do I need to bend the prong up, so that the floats will come down more?  Or the opposite?  Thanks!

[bombsquad83]

That's awesome that it looks like you are really starting to get this sorted.  I feel your pain...I've gone through a lot of carb issues before I got it worked out.  I made plenty of bone-headed mistakes along the way, and I have a feeling I still have more carb work to do! 

One thing I can say...going throug this gives you a lot more confidence for the next project. 

[bombsquad83]

Sorry you updated your post before I posted.

If your fuel level is low in the bowl, you need to adjust the float height as measured from the float bowl gasket surface on the carb when held upside down to be smaller.  That way the float doesn't extend as far into the bowl before shutting off the fuel flow.  Bend the tab whichever way accomplishes this.  I hope that makes sense...

smaller float height measurement = high fuel level
bigger float height measurement = lower fuel level

Once again this is measured with the float pressed gently into place in the upside down carb (the float should be held up by the tab), from the gasket surface to the top of the float.

Once your fuel level is sorted and you have at least eye-ball synced your carbs, it's back to checking all of those orings and other potential vacuum leak sources.

[shonole]

Sorry you updated your post before I posted.

If your fuel level is low in the bowl, you need to adjust the float height as measured from the float bowl gasket surface on the carb when held upside down to be smaller.  That way the float doesn't extend as far into the bowl before shutting off the fuel flow.  Bend the tab whichever way accomplishes this.  I hope that makes sense...

smaller float height measurement = high fuel level
bigger float height measurement = lower fuel level

Once again this is measured with the float pressed gently into place in the upside down carb (the float should be held up by the tab), from the gasket surface to the top of the float.

Once your fuel level is sorted and you have at least eye-ball synced your carbs, it's back to checking all of those orings and other potential vacuum leak sources.

That's what I though, just making sure, because if I'm going to adjust it, it will only be a tiny bit.  One is spot on, the other is ever so slightly low.

Looks like I finally have it narrowed down to only one simple issue.  The left cylinder won't idle without throttle, but even the slightest amount of throttle and it works great.  Both cylinders are now firing, and I actually got to take it out for a short ride!  Once I get that resolved, it should be good to go!   Thanks for all the help everyone! 

[Kijona]

Sorry you updated your post before I posted.

If your fuel level is low in the bowl, you need to adjust the float height as measured from the float bowl gasket surface on the carb when held upside down to be smaller.  That way the float doesn't extend as far into the bowl before shutting off the fuel flow.  Bend the tab whichever way accomplishes this.  I hope that makes sense...

smaller float height measurement = high fuel level
bigger float height measurement = lower fuel level

Once again this is measured with the float pressed gently into place in the upside down carb (the float should be held up by the tab), from the gasket surface to the top of the float.

Once your fuel level is sorted and you have at least eye-ball synced your carbs, it's back to checking all of those orings and other potential vacuum leak sources.

That's what I though, just making sure, because if I'm going to adjust it, it will only be a tiny bit.  One is spot on, the other is ever so slightly low.

Looks like I finally have it narrowed down to only one simple issue.  The left cylinder won't idle without throttle, but even the slightest amount of throttle and it works great.  Both cylinders are now firing, and I actually got to take it out for a short ride!  Once I get that resolved, it should be good to go!   Thanks for all the help everyone!

You still need to sync the carbs. Seriously! You should also, after everything is said and done, check the float height on each carb!

Duh. I just read the whole post. My bad.

Yeah, check it again and then you should be alright. Just be careful, too high can cause flooding which is harmful to your motor - there's one guy on here who had his motor explode (kind of) with oil out the back because it started filling up with gas. Oil pressure exceeded what the seals could handle and BOOM one gave out and spewed oil all over his rear wheel.

As far as the carb sync tool...it's actually pretty easy to do. I know there are lots of diagrams and such laying around, I just don't know where one is.

Here's a picture of what it needs to be. Just imagine it with only two lines:


It doesn't have to be that fancy or complicated. All you really need is zip-ties, about 20 feet of aquarium tubing, water, food coloring (or whatever to color the water), and a board. Oh, and a magic marker or a pen. Just make a big "U" shape on the face of a 2x4 or whatever you have...make the tubes about...oh 2" apart or so, the bend being at the bottom, and have the tubes themselves be about 3-4 feet long. Fill to about the half way mark, mark the board where it sits after you fill it, and then hook'er up! It's that easy. And this will give you a very accurate picture of how well your carbs are synced.

[twinrat]

check to make sure the little rubber cap is in good condtion or is still on the vacume take off point on the left carb .I put mine to the vacume operated fuel tap  so i know it will be a seperate issue if i have problems  latter down the track