Re: Sprockets 14t Front, 41t Rear/ Carb questions

[gsatterw]

I've got an '02 gs500e.

So I got a flat on my rear and decided to order a 14t sprocket, a bunch of bigger jets, a lunchbox k&n (already have vance and hines full exhaust), new chain, clip ons on as well as progressive fork springs while i waited for the tire.

When I took the old sprocket off, I realized that someone had already switched it to a 15t. Upon closer inspection of the rear sprocket, I found 41 teeth. So this is supposed to be the same rpm jump as a 14t front with stock rear. I still want more torque on starting, so I'm going to put in the 14t when it gets here.

When I was rejetting I also found some fishiness. The jets were 22.5, 60 and 122.5, which strikes me as really small for the main, seeing as stock is Pilot 17.5, Mid Main 60, Main 127.5 for an 02. The bike has definitely been running lean, could this be why I'm not experiencing the benefits of the 15t/41t gearing? When I rejet and change the sprockets to 14t/41t will there be absurd amounts of torque at my disposal? The bike also idles a bit funny, I usually have to choke it on a warm day to keep it running until the engine really heats up. Even then sometimes when fully warm and choke off, the rpm's will start to rise (to like 4,500) when I am at a stop sometimes and I'll have to clench the brake and let the clutch out a bit to slow the engine down with the transmission.

When I got the jets I also experienced some fishiness. I got a 6 sigma kit before I did enough research to realize that I could have picked the jets myself for way cheaper. They sent me 22.5 pilot (which I already have), no mid main and 132.5 and 137.5 main jets. The wiki says that for a performance exhaust with a k&n lunchbox I should run 20, 65, 145. What do you guys think? Did I get screwed? or will the 22.5 60 137.5 configuration do alright with the v&h and the lunchbox?

Also have a question about the washer  thing with the needle. I cant figure out how to get the needle out of the slide/ where in gods name these mysterious washers are supposed to go. Any help would be greatly appreciated

wrd.
Graham

[gsatterw]

also, when I was disassembling the bike, I cranked her up when all the hoses were disconnected from the carbs with the tank and air box off. I put my and in front of the air intakes, and the left one seemed to be pushing a little air out of the intake every time the piston fired. The right one did not have this happening. Could this be a valve issue?

[gsatterw]

And I have this strange problem: I get really bad gas mileage. I run the bike pretty hard, but I get like 90 miles to 3.5 gallons. The bike starts to really lean out at about this point (I guess when the main tank runs out? How big are the main and reserve tanks?) and then dies. I switch over to my reserve tank, and then it won't start. WTF.

[jestercinti]

I can answer some of the questions.  Regarding the needle, there is a white stopper that you have to remove once you get the top caps off the carbs.  Take a pair of needle nose pliers and **gently** pull.  I had this same thing with my 2009.  Here is a layout of how it goes:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/77567361@N05/6804882410/

Also, yes, your main jet is small.

Washers under the stock needle or a kit replacement needle affects mid RPM mixture and performance, which is why the 6 sigma kit did not come with a mid main jet.  Is there a replacement needle with the 6 sigma kit?  If so, it tends to be more aggressively tapered which is much different than the stock setup.

Regarding the reserve fuel tank issue, look for a clogged screen on the tank fuel chicken (meaning fuel "See Oh See Kay"...there is a filter for dirty words on this site).

20/65/145 is for a FULL Jardine from my understanding with no washers under the stock needle.  Your results will vary, but I would start with the 22.5/60/137.5 with no washers to see what happens.  If it seems a little flat at mid RPM add a washer or 2 under the needle.

EDIT:  Now that I think of it, 22.5/60/137.5 may be a bit lean on the mids and mains.  May need to up both by 1 or 2.  Install and see what happens, or talk to Buddha and he can set you straight with the right jets.

[jestercinti]

<Sorry, duplicate post>

[gsatterw]

Thanks for your input, there were no replacement needles with the kit. I got the needles out and one of the o-rings was pretty squished up, might explain why one carb was coughing air back? No? Valve issue?

[jestercinti]

Which O-Ring?  Was it used to raise the needle, or the one in the white spacer?

Before you look at the valves, I'd continue with the carbs.  Multiple things can cause confusion when troubleshooting.

[gsatterw]

its the oring on the white stopper that you informed me I could pull out with needle nose pliers.

[jestercinti]

Ok good.  I ask cause some people put O-Rings under the needle instead of washers.  1 O-Ring = 2 washers.

Hmmm...I'm not sure if that washer is causing your problems.  Someone may know more than I, but I will say that carbs are O-Ring sensitive.  If one wears out and/or is missing sometimes it will run erratic/strange.

My recommendation is to replace the O-Ring with one that is designed for gasoline/solvents and see if that helps.  Don't go to Lowes and buy O-Rings for water faucets, or you will be replacing next month (Ask me how I know this....)  Piece of mind of nothing else.

[gsatterw]

could I get those o-rings at an automotive store?

And I'm not sure that its a problem exactly with the carb pushing a bit of air backwards through it, its obviously not ideal, but my bike never failed me. until I blew out the back tire, but engine/carb wise she's been good to me. Fuel supply system questionable, but engine/carbs have always had my back. I just found it strange.

[jestercinti]

Probably.  I'd call before going over there and see if they sell "Nitrile O-rings".  Sometimes the section where the "HELP" packages are will have them. 

Make sure they are "Nitrile" or Alcohol/solvent/gas resistant.