Bike shuts down when putting it in first gear.

[Dresnewtoy]

Here's the senario.

The battery died a few weeks ago so i have to jump it when i want to ride. The issue is that when i put the gearbox in first, it shuts down. Even after letting it idle till it's warm, when i put it in first it shuts down.

It has happened before and is getting progressively worse. Today it shuts down every time i jump and put it in first so i cancelled my ride.

Could this be because of the dead battery?

Thanks for the help.

[adidasguy]

Side stand switch: Bike shuts off if side stand down and you go into gear.
Two solutions:
1. Pit up the side stand
2. If #1 done, fix the side stand switch/wiring (cheap to replace - like $10 or less on flea-bay)(Or post a want to buy)

Good safety feature: if side stand down - first left turn puts you on the ground.

[Funderb]

+1 to the above, those switches take a lot of abuse. if its not the switch, then the relay may have gone bad. wait, nevermind, you wouldnt even be able to start the bike if the relay was bad..

go get a new side stand switch!

[Kijona]

The sidestand switch is exactly where you would expect it to be - at the end of the sidestand's travel against the frame. It's a little "pump" looking protrusion that sticks out about an inch and quarter. There should be two wires attached to it via spade connectors. Pull the wires loose and touch them together and see if you can get the bike to start. If you can, well, then you know what the problem is.

%99.99999999~ chance that's what it is.

[adidasguy]

Side stand wires are molded into the switch. Wires are about 2' long (i.e. 60.69cm for those insisting on metric  )
You can try shorting at the connector end if you can find it.
Quite possible the switch is lose. 2 bolts: one is off so the switch has been moving a little and now the side stand won't push in the plunger.
It does go through a dual diode along with the neutral sensor, so possible a dirty connection there.

Examine side stand switch first. Then go about shorting things and tracing wires. Do it with bike on center stand so you can put in gear as you check the side stand up & down. BE CAREFUL WHEN BIKE IS RUNNING!

For the techies, it is a boolean OR gate situation where the dual diode is the OR gate....
Side stand UP or in neutral allows bike to run and /or start. When going out of neutral, defective side stand switch (or wires wires or half of dual diode or connections) has no signal so the output of the or gate is off/zero/nada and the side stand relay goes off killing the bike.

[Kijona]

Side stand wires are molded into the switch. Wires are about 2' long (i.e. 60.69cm for those insisting on metric  )
You can try shorting at the connector end if you can find it.
Quite possible the switch is lose. 2 bolts: one is off so the switch has been moving a little and now the side stand won't push in the plunger.
It does go through a dual diode along with the neutral sensor, so possible a dirty connection there.

Examine side stand switch first. Then go about shorting things and tracing wires. Do it with bike on center stand so you can put in gear as you check the side stand up & down. BE CAREFUL WHEN BIKE IS RUNNING!

For the techies, it is a boolean OR gate situation where the dual diode is the OR gate....
Side stand UP or in neutral allows bike to run and /or start. When going out of neutral, defective side stand switch (or wires wires or half of dual diode or connections) has no signal so the output of the or gate is off/zero/nada and the side stand relay goes off killing the bike.

Hmm...well they were like that on my strom

[sledge]

Who was it that said....."When you assume, you make an ass out of u and me" ?....

[Dresnewtoy]

Unbelievable!! Side stand was down!!........I just keep surprising myself!! 

Sorry for the false alarm.

[sledge]

And the lesson is....never overlook the obvious

Spade connecters eh??.....well done Kij` another world class fault diagnosis  Now listen up Sonny. Some of us were biking while you were still swimming around your Pappys sac and the same people were spannering on GS5s before you had learned to pi** in a pot. If you are gonna start diving in and telling us all how the universe functions go right ahead but...... be prepared to swallow some sh** when you get it wrong   

[adidasguy]

Hey, Terry Dunlavey Thomas, no need to bash someone fort trying to help.  Still sore over losing that war back in the late 1700's? Why so hard on him? 

and he was man enough to admit the error - but he was trying to help and did point to the correct part. 

I hope this is not your bike in the photo you posted. If it is, maybe he can ride you for not using the correct fastener for the oil filter cap. Whatever, you should avoid photos with the wrong parts or fasteners unless that is the point of the post: how not to do it.

[adidasguy]

Unbelievable!! Side stand was down!!........I just keep surprising myself!! 

Sorry for the false alarm.

You mentioned it was getting worse as time went on. Early onset of dementia?

[Dresnewtoy]

Hey Adidas, that's actually a legitimate problem. It does die sometimes when you first put it in gear when cold starting.....the colder the weather it seems to do it more often. Don't know if that's a common occurence. (dementia aside  )

[mister]

Hey Adidas, that's actually a legitimate problem. It does die sometimes when you first put it in gear when cold starting.....the colder the weather it seems to do it more often. Don't know if that's a common occurence. (dementia aside  )

If you have your side stand up - and - then it dies when you put it in first, the bike is most likely not revving enough.

With the bike idling around 2000rpm with some choke still on cause it's a cold start, putting it in 1st might see you feel a small Clunk and small lurch forward. This is normal.

When the bike is cold started and you have turned down the choke so it is idling at 1200-ish, the bike is more likely to Stall when going in to 1st gear for the first time.

Solution = increase the rmp (via choke) when getting ready to ride off from a cold start.

Michael

[Dizzledan]

I've had that phenomenon of the Cold Shift Clunk when shifting to first. Is it because the oil hasn't warmed up completely to coat all the clutch parts?

[Dresnewtoy]

Thanks Mister. Does make sense. That clunk concerned me too, good to know it's normal........always learning 

[Kijona]

Hey, Terry Dunlavey Thomas, no need to bash someone fort trying to help.  Still sore over losing that war back in the late 1700's? Why so hard on him? 

and he was man enough to admit the error - but he was trying to help and did point to the correct part. 

I hope this is not your bike in the photo you posted. If it is, maybe he can ride you for not using the correct fastener for the oil filter cap. Whatever, you should avoid photos with the wrong parts or fasteners unless that is the point of the post: how not to do it.

Nah, Adidas...I think I'll go easy on him. He is, in fact, a senior citizen after all. I'm sure he just ran out of Preparation H or forgot to take his Alzheimer's meds.

Nobody in their right mind would have the audacity to think that age is indicative of intelligence - and in doing so, thus assume they know everything - would they...?

[Kijona]

I've had that phenomenon of the Cold Shift Clunk when shifting to first. Is it because the oil hasn't warmed up completely to coat all the clutch parts?

Thanks Mister. Does make sense. That clunk concerned me too, good to know it's normal........always learning 

This is nothing to worry about, believe me. The reason that your bikes, my bikes, and every other Japanese motorcycle, new or old, do it, is because of the way the clutch is designed. Multiple plates stacked one on top of the other. It's also an inherent design "flaw" (if you can call it that) of wet clutches - the oil causes the plates to stick together sometimes. So what's happening is when you squeeze the clutch lever, there is a time when the plates are not completely separated. When you put it into first gear, the plates are coming apart (think of the way you take an Oreo apart...twisting motion). For an instant...the transmission is trying to turn the countershaft and thus...you have a lurch or clunk.

One thing you can do to lessen the severity of the clunk (no reason to stress) is to "pump" the clutch a few times to loosen it up. Or, just hold it in for 5-10 seconds and then drop it into first. Either way...whatever you want to do. It really does not matter in the grand scheme of things.

Now you know why it's normal.

[Funderb]

^^^ also, i find on my own bike, giving the throttle a couple blips with the clutch in, if you can, helps free up the plates immensely. You can stall your bike with clutch drag if the idle is low. the colder the stickier.