Chain needs replacing soon?

[rayshon]

Hey

So I find that even when I tighten my chain (rotate the tire, tighten in several spots so it's about 1 inch of freeplay), it will need tightening again after every 700-1000 miles. Right now it's almost at the last little dash thing on the swingarm.

When it comes to the end, will I need a new chain?

I heard some chains you can just take out one link. How do I know if my chain can do that? If it can, is it easy to do myself or should I have a mechanic do it?

If I need to buy a new chain, is it wise to buy new sprockets as well? I don't know how old the chain/sprockets are mile-wise. ):

-ray

[Kijona]

If you can, post a closeup pic of the chain.

If you're saying it's tighter in some spots than others, it's time to replace it. Taking a link out is just prolonging the inevitable. If it's already at the point that you're having to continually adjust it to take the slack out, it's time for a new one.

As far as replacing it yourself, it's super easy to do, even if you're not mechanically inclined.

Now, as far as a replacement, you'll also replace the sprockets while you're at it. Not doing so will shorten the life of your new chain.

When it came time (right after I got it) to replace the chain on my 07, I did lots and lots of research. What I ended up getting was this: http://www.bikebandit.com/bikemaster-520-o-ring-motorcycle-chain?b=28939 along with these: http://www.bikebandit.com/jt-sprockets-steel-sprocket?b=37418 (rear), http://www.bikebandit.com/jt-sprockets-steel-sprocket?b=36464 (front). I know for a fact that the BikeMaster chain I linked comes with a master link. Not all chains do. There's also really no way to know either, unless you call the manufacturer.

If you have extra money laying around, you can go for the X-RING version of the chain - it's about 14 bucks more. To me, it's of negligible difference. But, I'm not a chain engineer.

If you just feel like spending an ass-ton of money on sprockets (may not be a bad idea but for a GS...it's not necessary. It's gonna wear out one way or another), here's a Renthal front sprocket:
http://www.bikebandit.com/renthal-ultralight-chainwheel-sprocket?m=16095

There's also Sunstar which, in my opinion, is of negligible difference to JT but they're slightly more expensive: http://www.bikebandit.com/sunstar-steel-oe-replacement-motorcycle-sprocket?m=16095 (rear), and http://www.bikebandit.com/sunstar-steel-motorcycle-sprocket?m=16095 (front).

Personally, I'd go with the Bikemaster chain and JT sprockets. It's cheap enough and, for the money, the build quality is amazing. In fact, they seem like they're better made than the OEM sprockets.

Hope this helps! 

[adidasguy]

All the manuals give you a diagram and length a certain number of links should be.
Should be obvious that if you can't tighten it any more - it is bad. It is also wearing out your sprockets.

With a caliper:
"Count 21 pins (20 links) on the chain and measure the distance between the two pooints. If the distance exceeds following limit, the chain must be replaced: 
Service limit: 319.4mm (12.57 in)"


When in doubt if something is too worn out - replace it.

[tt_four]

Definitely try to find one with a masterlink, makes it an easy home install. I know I was browsing chains on cyclegears website the other night, and a couple of them listed a masterlink in their description, so just make sure you search around until you find what you need.

As far as installing it, find out how long you need it, then take an angle grinder to one of the pins until it's worn down enough for you to just pull the chain apart. No need for special tools. You can find videos of it on youtube.

And just in case you're confused about the difference when you look at all the differences.... from what I remember, non-o-ring chains are supposed to be better, but require more maintenance to keep them lubed, o-rings seal the lubricant in better because of the o-rings. I'm still not sure what an x-ring chain is haha. You can spend anywhere from $35 up to $150+ on a chain, and I'm sure you get what you pay for, but I doubt anything over $80-85 and you're not gonna get your value for a street bike.

[Kijona]

Definitely try to find one with a masterlink, makes it an easy home install. I know I was browsing chains on cyclegears website the other night, and a couple of them listed a masterlink in their description, so just make sure you search around until you find what you need.

As far as installing it, find out how long you need it, then take an angle grinder to one of the pins until it's worn down enough for you to just pull the chain apart. No need for special tools. You can find videos of it on youtube.

And just in case you're confused about the difference when you look at all the differences.... from what I remember, non-o-ring chains are supposed to be better, but require more maintenance to keep them lubed, o-rings seal the lubricant in better because of the o-rings. I'm still not sure what an x-ring chain is haha. You can spend anywhere from $35 up to $150+ on a chain, and I'm sure you get what you pay for, but I doubt anything over $80-85 and you're not gonna get your value for a street bike.

^^ The chain I listed for him is an o-ring and it's about middle-of the road. It definitely comes with a masterlink - I just ordered one about 6 weeks ago.

[adidasguy]

Just about everything has a "master link".
The question is what type? A riveted master link or a clip master link?
"Master link" means the chain comes apart as opposed to the OEM chain which has no master link in order to take it off the bike without removing the swing arm (or cutting it).

[Kijona]

Just about everything has a "master link".
The question is what type? A riveted master link or a clip master link?
"Master link" means the chain comes apart as opposed to the OEM chain which has no master link in order to take it off the bike without removing the swing arm (or cutting it).

Some chains come as one piece, not connected, and you have to buy your own master link of your choice.

[slipperymongoose]

How far can you pull a link off the rearmost part or '3 o'clock position' of your rear sprocket? If you can expose nearly the entire tooth it's stuffed.

[twocool]

Hey

So I find that even when I tighten my chain (rotate the tire, tighten in several spots so it's about 1 inch of freeplay), it will need tightening again after every 700-1000 miles. Right now it's almost at the last little dash thing on the swingarm.

When it comes to the end, will I need a new chain?

I heard some chains you can just take out one link. How do I know if my chain can do that? If it can, is it easy to do myself or should I have a mechanic do it?

If I need to buy a new chain, is it wise to buy new sprockets as well? I don't know how old the chain/sprockets are mile-wise. ):

-ray

Chains...

OEM chain on my GS is "Regina"  When the time comes I will replace with Regina.  Because I know this brand from bicycle racing...considered "the best"... but also because I am at 21,000 miles on this chain, and it's not worn much!  Maybe this has more to do with maintenance than with brand of chain...I have cleaned and lubed my chain faithfully every 500 miles....

Regina chain is around $100.

Non O ring chain is cheapest....not best for GS.  Wears out fast...

O ring chain is huge improvement in chain technology.....keeps lubricant sealed in, and keeps dirt and grit sealed out.  You do have to clean and lube O ring chain, but you're lubing the outside, not the inside...the inside has the lube already in there and sealed in.  Lubing the outside prevents corrosion, and adds a "cushioning" effect to prevent wear and prevent wear on the sprockets too.

X ring is nothing more than a fancy O ring....serves the same purpose, only X ring is an attempt at providing even a better seal to the chain links....costs more....the X is the shape of the seal, which supposedly gives additional contact sealing areas.  These cost extra $$ and probably are not noticably better than O ring...

OEM chain on GS is "continuous chain" meaning it is formed into the 110 link continuous loop, at the factory and is installed during the assembly of the bike. No master link...all links are same. A continuous loop chain cannot be removed or installed on an assembled bike, unless you remove the swing arm.  (well, you remove by cutting, which ruins the chain...or you can cut one link, and replace that with a mster link)

If you search an OEM REPLACEMENT chain for GS you will find it is master link type.  you will also find that all after market brands of chain reference masterlink type chain for GS.  THis is because nobody is going to disassemble the bike just to put on a new chain...

There are two main types of master link.....the clip on type and the rivet on type.  Many chain brands offer your choice.  Some chains brands "give" you the master link (included) when you buy the chain.  Others you have to order the masterlink as a separate part #. And extra $$$
The clip tpe can be installed by an amatuer without special tools.  Many feel that this type of master link is unreliable and could fail during use with catastrophic results.  Most manufacturers limit this clip type to low cc bikes.


The rivet type master link requires a rivet tool to install.  This tool is expensive, and probably not worth buying is you only own one bike and only get a new chain every 2 years or more.  When the time comes, I'll pay my "guy" to install a new chain with rivet master link.

It is considered conventional wisdon to change the sprockets to new when you install a new chain.  The idea is they need to "break in" together to give a good fit.  Changin chain with  changing sprockets, or visa versa, could cause premature wear.  In bicycles, where you have multi speed sprockets, ad deraileur shifting, this is true.  New chain will not perform properly on old sprockets..

On Motorcycle some say changing sprockets is NOT necessary with new chain.  Some change sprocket only when sprocket is worn out.  Some change sprocket for every two chains.

Ways of testing if chain is worn out...(previously mentioned in posts) ..1) measure the length for "stretch" and compare to spec.  ....Pull chain at rear sprocket and see how far it lifts off....Check for tight links....see if you've reached the end of adjustment in the rear drop out..

Chains are a critical safety issue....don't skimp!

Cookie

[Kijona]

What year is yours? My 97/98 came from the factory with a DID chain - and the manual says so too. 

[twocool]

What year is yours? My 97/98 came from the factory with a DID chain - and the manual says so too. 

Mine is 2009.......My owner's manual does say DID chain, but I was surprised to see "Regina" stamped on each link!  My OEM Regina is the "silver" one....all the links are just steel metal color.....usually the Regina replacement chains are with "gold" colored links.  I think mostly for bling..

I'm sure they just shop around before a production run of bikes and buy parts from suppliers based on price, availability, and delivery schedule....probably many brands seen on various parts.  For instance my battery is "made in USA" ...are batteries added by dealer after delivery?

Anyway, I bet there is no noticable difference in quality between DID and Regina.....I'm sure my long chain life is the result of mostly routine care and cleaning/lube./driving style....not so much the manufacturer.

Cookie

[rayshon]

thanks for the responses guys.

It's an 04 F with 11k miles (4k from me).

Here's a picture of the chain just now after a quick cleaning and tightening. As you can see it's almost near the very last notch on the swingarm. Another thing I noticed was that after I tightened it, it would have perfect 1inch freeplay in one spot, but almost none on the other side of the chain. ):

(you may have to right click-> view image to see full pic)

[adidasguy]

This thread has gone on too long.
Call me a dumb blond or an old geezer, but why does it continue? Really 
Haven't we all agreed many posts ago that the chain needs replacing?

[rayshon]

This thread has gone on too long.
Call me a dumb blond or an old geezer, but why does it continue? Really 
Haven't we all agreed many posts ago that the chain needs replacing?

Yeah I think so too, but it just seems unusual for a chain to need replacing after only 10k miles when others have the same ones for 20k+.

[BaltimoreGS]

Chains need maintenance just like everything else, neglect it and the service life will be shortened.

-Jessie

[rayshon]

As far as replacing it yourself, it's super easy to do, even if you're not mechanically inclined.

My service manual says I must take off the rear wheel, swingarm, and shock.

Is that right? Doesn't sound "super easy" to me. ):

[Legnd]

As far as replacing it yourself, it's super easy to do, even if you're not mechanically inclined.

My service manual says I must take off the rear wheel, swingarm, and shock.

Is that right? Doesn't sound "super easy" to me. ):

I wouldn't. When you buy a new chain it's probably going to have some sort of master link so it can be 'threaded' through and then clipped into a closed loop. That can be done without taking off anything but the front sprocket cover. Just cut the old chain off when you have the new chain.

[rayshon]

As far as replacing it yourself, it's super easy to do, even if you're not mechanically inclined.

My service manual says I must take off the rear wheel, swingarm, and shock.

Is that right? Doesn't sound "super easy" to me. ):

I wouldn't. When you buy a new chain it's probably going to have some sort of master link so it can be 'threaded' through and then clipped into a closed loop. That can be done without taking off anything but the front sprocket cover. Just cut the old chain off when you have the new chain.

Okay. Does the first chain that Kijona linked me to have the master link that I can just close up? Forgive me as I am pretty newb at this stuff?

EDIT: Nevermind, I just read his post. Thanks guys!

[adidasguy]

Don't forget to replace both sprockets.
Order new or ask parts whores for good used ones.

[twocool]

As far as replacing it yourself, it's super easy to do, even if you're not mechanically inclined.

My service manual says I must take off the rear wheel, swingarm, and shock.

Is that right? Doesn't sound "super easy" to me. ):

Service manual is referring to OEM factory chain which is "continous link type"....you need to remove swing arm...

BUT!!!

In Suzuki's own parts fische diagrams they show the OEM chain with master link...so you don't have to take off the swing arm.  No dealer is going to waste time taking off a swing arm just to change a chain...neither is any home mechanic.  It is easy to install a continous chain at the factory as the bike is being built...that is why they do us a continous chain.

I've searched pretty hard on the internet and have never come across a continous type chain for the GS....not OEM...not aftermarket.

But remember the best masterlink type is the rivet type...this requires a special expensive tool....and a bit of practice...

I would have my local mechanic do the riveting...

You can get a clip type masterlink....and you can install this yourself....some swear they work fine...others are concerned about the clip failing at an inopportune moment!

You can temporarily attach the new chain to your old chain, and as you pull off the old chain, the new chain will thread itself over the sprockets.  If you're gonna change sprockets then it doesn't matter.

Cookie