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Started by BaltimoreGS, February 28, 2012, 04:49:59 AM

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BaltimoreGS

Quote from: J_Walker on March 02, 2012, 05:02:29 PM
Question about the oil. Is Resource conserving the same as Energy Conserving? Couldn't find anything with 10W-30 that didn't say anything. I bought the walmart stuff for like 12 bucks I'll return it if its not suitable for the bike. Just a little confused.

Resource Conserving, Energy Conserving... anything written in the lower part of the API seal is bad.  10w-30 is too light of oil, exchange it for 10w-40 or better yet the 15w40 oil for deisel engines   :thumb:

-Jessie

J_Walker

Quote from: BaltimoreGS on March 02, 2012, 05:06:01 PM
Quote from: J_Walker on March 02, 2012, 05:02:29 PM
Question about the oil. Is Resource conserving the same as Energy Conserving? Couldn't find anything with 10W-30 that didn't say anything. I bought the walmart stuff for like 12 bucks I'll return it if its not suitable for the bike. Just a little confused.

Resource Conserving, Energy Conserving... anything written in the lower part of the API seal is bad.  10w-30 is too light of oil, exchange it for 10w-40 or better yet the 15w40 oil for deisel engines   :thumb:

-Jessie

/quote]

They sell any of that at Walmart??
-Walker

BaltimoreGS

Yep, you can get Walmart store brand SuperTech or Rotella name brand.

-Jessie

J_Walker

#43
Should valvoline 10w40 be good? has nothing at all on the seal. The 15w40 Diesel had something on the bottom of the seal, so went with the valvoline one.

Edit: im sticking with the Valvoline, Customer service sucked at walmart and there was only 1 person infront of me returning 1 thing and took them like 20 mins!

Edit2: also what was that oil filter number you get from napa again? The part #?

Edit3: I also looked for a torque wrench.. Didn't know it'd be so hard to find. :/ Anyway heading to napa on monday when I go take the camaro for an oil change. > 2 hours of sitting around..
-Walker

BaltimoreGS

NAPA part# PS4931.  NAPA also sells the Valvoline 4 Stroke motorcycle oil.  I used automotive 10w40 in the '90's when I raced dirt bikes and never had any clutch problems.  Just change it often because the transmission breaks it down quicker.

-Jessie

knowles

What I meant was that I would like to see you do a video on GS taking the forks off the bike, changing the oil, and the steps in order, and what to look for and what to be careful of not doing. The first few times that i do something i like to do it the right, long way so i can see it done from start to finish, and then i can be the one to skip steps if i want. also because im the one riding the thing so if it goes wrong its because i did something wrong not because i watched a video and the guy didn't put something in there that he knows how to do but forgot that a person who has never done it before wouldn't know to do it a certain way.

its just the way that i do it when i take things apart, if i can find someone who knows how to do it then i try to have them there while i do it so they can basically give me the steps in order, and other knowledge. I have done this when i have repaired and fixed things on my truck and sleds, and it worked out like i took it to a dealer and paid them a butt load of money, but instead i did it myself and it would only cost me a case of beer at most. hope this clears it up. as far as the home made tools go im not apposed to making them but if the real item is not overly expensive then i would just go buy it so i have it for later, it just depends on how hard it would be to make and how good it works compared to the store bought ones.

not to sound needy but you have done good vids in the past, so it was just a suggestion on a future video because i have to do this and dont want to bring it in and pay $150 for someone else to do it.
1989 GS 500EK

knowles

I have been told not to use car engine oil in a bike because that it now contains a additive that makes it more slippery and can make your clutch not work properly, this was by the dealer in duluth mn. is this correct?
1989 GS 500EK

BaltimoreGS

#47
Now I get what you are saying Knowles.  All you need is a fork removal and installation video though, the fork seal video is a complete tear down and rebuild.  The process is the same for both forks (save one pinch bolt) so I only showed one fork leg.  You should still invest in a decent repair manual if you don't already have one.  The homemade tool works just as well as the factory tool on the old style forks.  If you want a real tool it is just a 24mm allen (hex) head socket and a long extension.  If the newer style forks are the same as SV650 forks, the Suzuki special service tool is a pointed socket with splines.  It is available through any Suzuki dealer, I think I payed about $40 for mine.  You will still need a long extension to hold it.

Your dealer is correct about the oil.  The friction modifying additives that make a wet clutch slip is what you are checking for when you look at the API seal on the oil bottle.  If anything is written in the bottom portion of the API seal it should not be used in a motorcycle with a wet clutch.  "Energy Conserving" is the most common friction modifier designation I have seen but lately I have also seen "Resource Conserving."

-Jessie

API Seal



24mm Hex Socket- old style forks



SV650 Fork Tool- May work on new style forks but I have not tried it


slipperymongoose

ATM I'm doing a video on steering head bearings in which I show fork removal and installation. Be patient should be up in the next couple days.
Some say that he submitted a $20000 expense claim for some gravel

And that if he'd write a letter of condolance he would at least spell your name right.

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