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oil - car or motorcycle specific?

Started by trojanone1, March 01, 2012, 08:34:18 AM

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trojanone1

Hi,
I am new to the forums, but have been reading them for sometime. I read from some other members and they use "normal" oil used in cars instead of motorcycle oil because it's cheaper. what oil works well for the GS and what should i look for when buying oil? I'm looking at synthetic.

Thanks for any advice/help!

cantthinkof1

You can use oil for cars as long as it is the correct weight and isn't "Energy conserving." Basically, EC oils have friction modifiers that are supposed to boost fuel economy for cars, but for bikes the clutch has oil as well, which creates slippage issues. Generally speaking 10w40 automotive oils lack these friction modifiers, but I would double check the bottle.

As far as motorcycle vs. motor oil, I just buy the Suzuki branded oil around 5.30?/qt or so, which is right around what most conventional oils cost these days anyways.

Now this is pure speculation, but the Suzuki oil part number is similar to Penzoil or Rotella part numbers. Granted the oil might come from the same refinery, but the additive packages might be different, I'm not sure.

As far as synthetic goes, I haven't explored it much, all though they are supposed to deal with heat better which might be a positive since our bikes basically use the oil for cooling and lubrication.

ninjeff

I think it was BaltimoreGS just did some youtube videos (on monday i think) regarding this very subject.
They are concise and informative. Id recommend watching them.
They shouldn't be more than a few threads back.

bohunkus

Any info on this matter would be great. i would like to run synthetic as well

Dizzledan


trojanone1

Quote from: ninjeff on March 01, 2012, 09:06:21 AM
I think it was BaltimoreGS just did some youtube videos (on monday i think) regarding this very subject.
They are concise and informative. Id recommend watching them.
They shouldn't be more than a few threads back.

The video was very helpful. i think im gonna try vavoline 10w 40 synthetic motorcycle oil just to be on the safe side. this is my first bike and i dont want to ruin it lol


PachmanP

I prefer skim milk because it keeps the bearings from scorching under cross winds.  :icon_twisted:

Arguing about moto oil is like the song that never ends. As long as you're not using energy conserving oil it's pretty hard to go wrong.

'04 F to an E to a wreck to a Wee Strom?
HEL stainless brake lines
15W fork oil
Kat 600 Rear shock
K&N drop in and Buddha jets
It wants me to go brokedie.

Bullfrog

Dunno where exactly I read it, but fully synthetic oil may cause a slipping clutch. So if you wanna go synthetic, I'd recommend a half-mineral / half synthetic oil.
  

ojstinson

#8
If you use WalMart 10-40 at $1.75 a quart and change it regularly your engine should last well in excess of 100,000 miles, if you use a MC specific oil at $8.00 a quart and change it regularly your engine should last well in excess of 100,000 miles. If I were you I'd opt for the $8.00 oil because it will make you feel much better about the whole thing---money that makes you feel good is always money well spent.

Personally, I always use inexpensive 15-40 diesel oil ( whatever is on sale ) and have for years. A MC mechanic once told me it's the best kept secret in the business---he told me to keep it to myself, he says it's every bit as good as high priced MC oils and in most cases better.
I'm not a racist, some of my best friends are you people.

BaltimoreGS

GSJack is the real authority when it comes to keeping a GS alive for a long time.  He has logged close to 200,000 combined on two GS500's.  Search his posts and see what oil he runs. 

Like I said in the video, do some research and use whatever oil you feel comfortable with.  One thing to bear in mind when you're researching is that the GS500 engine debuted in 1989 and hasn't changed much.  Moreover, the GS500 engine is derived from the GS450 engine design which debuted in 1980.  It is really old technology so the latest and greatest synthetic oils are really overkill for it.  Synthetic oil shouldn't hurt anything though if it is designed for use with a wet clutch.  In the end it is your money, spend it however you like   :thumb:

-Jessie

Kijona

Here's a great compromise. Use Castrol Racing 4T 10w-40 motorcycle oil. PepBoys sells it in a 4L jug (actually more than a gallon) for $14.99. It's not ultra high-tech or anything, but it is a motorcycle-specific oil AND it's relatively cheap. It ends up being about 3.75 a quart...though it's liter so it's a little more.

It's what I put in all my motorcycles. :)

gsJack

Motorcycle specific oils should still be SG type but hardly worth their premium price I think.  Biggest difference between them and API rated oils like current SM,SN etc is the removal or reduction in the film strengthening additives like zink which were harmful to auto cat converters.   Such additives are more important in motorcycles using the engine oil to lubricate the trannys because the shearing action of the gears breaks down the oil faster.  Other major factor is the energy conserving additives that can cause a wet clutch in a bike to slip but there are 10W-40 and higher viscosity API SM oils that don't have these. 

The heavy duty oils aka truck/deisel oils like Rotella T, Delvac, Delo, etc have more of the desirable zink additive and no energy conserving additives making them desirable for bikes.  Also the the Rotella T now has the JASO MA rating meaning it meets motorcycle specs, JASO is the Japanese agency like our API that rates motor oils.  There is also a JASO MB rated oil with energy conserving additives for bikes with dry clutches so make sure you get MA. 

The Rotella T 15W-40 conventional oil is my current choice for use year around here in NE Ohio until something better comes along.     I used 15W-50 Mobil 1 synthetic for the first 50k miles in my 97 GS and after oil consumption increased considerably with advancing milage I switched to the less costly 15W-40 Rotella/Delvac type heavy duty oils.  I've used only the heavy duty oils in my current 02 GS for over 92k miles now.   My 97 GS ran cooler on the 15W-40 oil than it did on the 15W-50 oil requireing a lower grade of gasoline in hot weather.  I see no advantage to using a synthetic oil in the GS500.  Your experience may vary.   

I had an old high milage Honda CB750 that was starting to use a lot of oil about 25 years ago so I put synthetic oil in it thinking it might hold up better.  It began leaking from the cylinder base gasket as well as a couple engine side covers almost immediately when hot and I changed back to conventional oil and the new leaks stopped.     
407,400 miles in 30 years for 13,580 miles/year average.  Started riding 7/21/84 and hung up helmet 8/31/14.

trojanone1

Quote from: Kijona on March 02, 2012, 01:02:21 AM
Here's a great compromise. Use Castrol Racing 4T 10w-40 motorcycle oil. PepBoys sells it in a 4L jug (actually more than a gallon) for $14.99. It's not ultra high-tech or anything, but it is a motorcycle-specific oil AND it's relatively cheap. It ends up being about 3.75 a quart...though it's liter so it's a little more.

It's what I put in all my motorcycles. :)

Dang that's pretty good although idk where the nearest pep boys is. only have advance auto and oreillys for auto parts stores here.

twocool

Quote from: trojanone1 on March 02, 2012, 09:17:04 AM
Quote from: Kijona on March 02, 2012, 01:02:21 AM
Here's a great compromise. Use Castrol Racing 4T 10w-40 motorcycle oil. PepBoys sells it in a 4L jug (actually more than a gallon) for $14.99. It's not ultra high-tech or anything, but it is a motorcycle-specific oil AND it's relatively cheap. It ends up being about 3.75 a quart...though it's liter so it's a little more.

It's what I put in all my motorcycles. :)

Dang that's pretty good although idk where the nearest pep boys is. only have advance auto and oreillys for auto parts stores here.

Advance sells valvoline 10W40 MOTORCYCLE oil for $5.20  a quart

Cookie

craigs449

I have been using Shell Rotella for years in most of my bikes with no issues.  Cheap, good oil.


I heard this said on another forum,
"New, cheap oil is a lot better in your bike than used expensive oil"

-Change your oil often for longer life out of your bike. I do oil changes on the GS every 1000-1500 miles with the Shell Rotella.  My Husqvarna supermoto track bike gets the oil changed every 300-400 miles with AGIP 10-W-60 (but that bike only holds 1.3 liters!!!!)
2001 Suzuki GS 500 "Commute Killer"
2008 Husqvarna 510 SMR
2002 Honda CR 250 "Project Pain-in-the-ass"
2001 Honda XR 50

Kijona

Quote from: craigs449 on March 03, 2012, 08:25:42 AM
I have been using Shell Rotella for years in most of my bikes with no issues.  Cheap, good oil.


I heard this said on another forum,
"New, cheap oil is a lot better in your bike than used expensive oil"

-Change your oil often for longer life out of your bike. I do oil changes on the GS every 1000-1500 miles with the Shell Rotella.  My Husqvarna supermoto track bike gets the oil changed every 300-400 miles with AGIP 10-W-60 (but that bike only holds 1.3 liters!!!!)

Just remember - too much of a good thing is bad. The recommended oil change interval on the GS is every 3000 miles.

Let's consider what happens when you change the oil...you're removing all the motor's lubrication. There is, even if it's just a few seconds, a short amount of time when the bike is running without proper lubrication (when you start the bike after you're finished). If you consider you're changing it every 1 or 1.5 thousand miles, that's double or even TRIPLE the number of times the engine is exposed to the aforementioned condition.

Granted, this is of course nothing but speculation. Just something to consider. :)

Dizzledan

Quote from: Kijona on March 03, 2012, 11:00:38 AMnothing but speculation

This is also speculation:

When you drain the oil for a change, properly:
Engine warm, open drain plug
It's not a pressurized affair, meaning not ALL of the oil comes out and leaves everything bone dry. There is oil in the head, in the clutch, and in the stator side that doesn't all come out. Now if you had let the bike sit for 2-3 years without starting it, THAT would be like the situation you posted above, where you would need to put some oil in the cylinders (after making sure they weren't stuck) to help keep damage from happening.

Make sense?

If you are worried about starvation from a simple oil change (which you shouldn't be), just put a teaspoon of oil down the spark plug holes and crank the bike, put plugs back in, voilĂ .

mister

Quote from: Bullfrog on March 01, 2012, 07:36:47 PM
Dunno where exactly I read it, but fully synthetic oil may cause a slipping clutch. So if you wanna go synthetic, I'd recommend a half-mineral / half synthetic oil.

Stop repeating stuff you think you only heard somewhere and don't know if it is true. It's NOT helpful to anyone.

To the OP... we hardly ever get an oil thread here, thanks for asking....

You have many options available to you...

1 - truck oil
2 - any old motorcar oil
3 - cheapest motorcycle oil you can get
4 - expensive motorcycle oils

In the end you get what you want, that's within your budget and lets you sleep at night knowing you're all lubed up. Here's what I Have used and now use...

Started with some basic Motul oil for the first couple services - keep in mind I have had this bike since new and there are now 50,000+kms on it. In the beginning, getting into first was a little cluncky and a little lurchy when cold. Standard for this bike. I'd also get false neutrals.

I switched to Motul 5100 and things improved greatly. Good stuff. False neutrals a thing of the past.

I switched to Motul 300v (factoryline, as that is the motorcycle version). And I couldn't believe how much smoother the gear changes became and I could now push the bike around in gear when it was cold. Not possible with the previous oils.

Last change I switched to Mobile 1 Racing 4t Fully Synthetic and man is it good. Gear changes are smoother than anything. I read the thread about the GS500 vs the R6 and the comments on the smoothness of the R6 with gear changes and I think... use the right oil and you can get that on a GS500. So smooth are they I don't actually feel a click which changing up. Clutch in, a light tap up and she just slides in without fuss.

Of course, the Mobile doesn't smell as good as Motul (smell Motul, it has an essential oil fragrance about it) but it is better. BUT, this fully synthetic stuff is not cheap.

Yeah but it's only a GS so why put in pricey oil? Fine, think that way. My GS is not "just a gs" it is the machine I am controlling, which needs to be reliable, mechanically sound and functioning to keep me from harm. If that costs me a couple bucks extra big whoop. Let's face it, riding a bike is not a Cheap thing, insurance is higher, service intervals shorter, parts wear quicker and so on. It would actually be cheaper to have a Small car.

Student with no money? Then why do you have a motorcycle? Get a pushbike and/or catch public transport. How much public transport could you catch for the $2k you bought the GS for?

I raise the money points because it's a regular theme and people need to face reality... motorcycles are NOT cheap. If you don't like it, offload the bike and save your money and spend it on other things, just don't use it as an excuse. And if the cheapest of everything is bought for the bike and it doesn't perform like a formula one race car, don't blame the bike, blame the cheap stuff bought for the bike.

Don't buy cheap batteries than complain about battery strength and power, for example.

Ok. End of rant.

Back to the question...

Use whatever oil you want. :thumb: It's just a GS and the engine is bullet proof.   :icon_mrgreen:

Michael
GS Picture Game - Lists of Completed Challenges & Current Challenge http://tinyurl.com/GS500PictureGame and http://tinyurl.com/GS500PictureGameList2

GS500 Round Aust Relay http://tinyurl.com/GS500RoundAustRelay

Twisted

#18
Quote from: Kijona on March 03, 2012, 11:00:38 AM

Just remember - too much of a good thing is bad. The recommended oil change interval on the GS is every 3000 miles.

Let's consider what happens when you change the oil...you're removing all the motor's lubrication. There is, even if it's just a few seconds, a short amount of time when the bike is running without proper lubrication (when you start the bike after you're finished). If you consider you're changing it every 1 or 1.5 thousand miles, that's double or even TRIPLE the number of times the engine is exposed to the aforementioned condition.

Granted, this is of course nothing but speculation. Just something to consider. :)

You are trying to tell me regular oil changes are detrimental to my bikes engine? Everytime you cold start your engine you realize you are doing the same thing right?

BaltimoreGS

While I don't agree that changing your oil more often than the recommended intervals is a bad thing, there is a difference between starting your bike cold and starting your bike after an oil change because the oil has to be pumped into the oil filter.  Ever notice how long your oil pressure light stays on the first start after an oil change?

-Jessie

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