Painting Question

[kigroy]

I'm a cheap do-it-yourself person, and want to repaint my gas tank and front fender black.  Does anyone have any tips or tricks to making the paint job look professional without using a spraygun.  

Also, I have a few dents on my tank, they don't bother me too much, but is there an easy to remove them.

  Thanks!

[pantablo]

motorcycle repaint project-the cheap way:

http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_repaint.htm

[yamahonkawazuki]

like it says, you can achieve similar results spray-bombing it, if you are willing to do the prep work, and do it carefully. (it doesnt really say that, but similar)

[kigroy]

I'm soryy I don't understand what "spray bombing" it means?

But I have another question, if you want to add a design into the paint do you have to do it before you put on clear coat or can you do it after?

[JohNLA]

It is best to add a clearcoat after each color but not required. The last two coats should be clear, regardles.

[JLKasper]

I've painted one tank and tins in my life, and it turned out pretty well.  I used white, because it doesn't fade and it tends to hide flaws the most (black is the worst).  Do you intend to have a glossy finish or a satin or flat?

I'd recommend the GSresources link provided by Pantablo as the best info in one place on the net.  As a matter of fact, it's a great resource for most anything motorcycle.

I'd have the tank bead-blasted to remove all the paint. You might have difficulty getting someone to agree to do it.  I had to agree to let the guy fill the tank with water in order to minimize explosion hazard.  This would also be a good time to rust treat the tank with Kreem or a similar product.

My specific advice is to select a work area with more light than you think you'll need, the time spent sanding is well worth it, and don't get in a hurry.  Good luck and keep us posted how it goes!  

[kigroy]

Well I planned on painting my bike black with a glossy finish, but since you mention it shows the most flaws I may think twice about it.  

GSResources like is very helpful, I will be using that as my guideline for painting.  

Why do you recomend getting the tank bead blasted?  From the way that GSResouces describes the paint removal process, it sounds like the tank is the easiest part to remove paint from.

[JLKasper]

Don't be afraid to paint it black; just be ready to invest more time in preparation work and final sanding.  I didn't use a clear coat on my job; I'd recommend it for just about any darker or metallic color.  The clear will hide more flaws in the painted surface.

I had the tank blasted  because I liked the surface finish as a base, and I didn't want to mess with paint removers.  I also used some body filler (from a tube, premixed) in some very slight dents, which adhered well on the  blasted surface.  If you do, make sure to duct-tape the hell out of the filler hole.  I screwed a plate over the petcock opening and hand-sanded afterwords.  I primed and finish-coated one coat each with the petcock and fuel cap screws removed, then started throwaway screws to prevent a large buildup in the threads.

Whatever you decide, plan every step ahead, have everything you need, then go for it!    

[kigroy]

Okay, thanks for all of the advice.  I hope to start painting it next week, I wanted to do it earlier, but I ran into some carb problems.  Thanks for the advice, I'll keep ya posted on the progress.

[Labrat]

I painted mine last winter.  First time I have ever painted any thing.  Turned out ok.  Bike used to be Barbie purple.  Expect to spend most of the winter, it takes longer than you think.  If I had know how much work it was I probably would have paid some one to do it.  

I got the paint from color rite because I could not find another vendor who sells a bright yellow.  Color rite is very expensive ($150 in paint alone).  The clear coat took a very long time to harden and never got completely rock hard.  The guy at color rite said that was because they can't mix the hardener in the spray can.

Try to find a VERY clean, dust free place to paint.  I used my basement and the dust was a problem.  The painted piece becomes a magnet for dust and dirt.  Also, overspray will create a layer of paint dust on every thing around you.

You should wait several weeks after applying the clear coat before you wax.  It takes a long time for the solvent to permeate out of the clear coat.  The clear coat will still be soft until all the solvent is completely gone.  I hear you should bake the parts after painting to help the drying process, but my wife would freak if I put the tank in her oven.

Only use pure carnuba wax.  Cheap stuff has silicon in it.  If you wax too early you will trap the solvent in by covering it with wax.  

Hope this helps.  I only did this once, so I am still a novice.

Good luck !