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Front wheel bearings...

Started by dropitlow88, March 26, 2012, 06:30:00 PM

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dropitlow88

Ok, just got my new IRC Road Winner RX-01 in today and went out to the garage to swap out tires. Jacked up the front of the bike, and like a little kid, had to spin the tire :cookoo: I heard a little noise, and gave it a shake back and forth, they are loose. I had wondered why the bike felt a little squirrely on crappy roads. It had a tendency to follow cracks and tar snakes. So, fellow GS'ers, how do i go about removing those guys? I believe the part number is 6302? double wall sealed bearing? Thanks for your help.

mchollan

I haven't done this on a GS, but I'm assuming the job is very similar to any other bike.
Its not that bad of a job.  If you have a bearing puller you are in good shape.  If not its a bit of a struggle but not impossible.

Basically, remove the caliper from the front wheel.  I rubber band or tie strap a rag around it so I don't bang up the rotor when removing the tire. 
Remove the pin from the front axle bolt. 
Loosen the bolts.
Remove the tire setting on some blocks of wood as to not bend or damage the rotor.
Remove the axle and spacer from inside the wheel.
Use the bearing puller to pull the bearings from inside the wheel.
Grease the crap out of the inside of the wheel.  Use a nice high temp grease.
Use your bearing puller to press the new bearings in place.

Hope this helps.  Have fun!

adidasguy

Be sure the spacer is in there between the bearings. If a PO left it out, it would explain the bearings going bad.

slipperymongoose

I've done this, I should do another video on how to do it. It's an extremely easy job to do. Use a long punch to get the old ones out, then use a socket or something with a similar outside diameter to the new bearings and if you can use a shop press, or using a soft face hammer works just as good, and gentle gentle push, or tap them in.
Some say that he submitted a $20000 expense claim for some gravel

And that if he'd write a letter of condolance he would at least spell your name right.

BaltimoreGS

Quote from: slipperymongoose on March 26, 2012, 08:45:55 PM
I've done this, I should do another video on how to do it. It's an extremely easy job to do. Use a long punch to get the old ones out, then use a socket or something with a similar outside diameter to the new bearings and if you can use a shop press, or using a soft face hammer works just as good, and gentle gentle push, or tap them in.

+1
Same method I use   :thumb:

-Jessie

dropitlow88

Quote from: adidasguy on March 26, 2012, 08:29:05 PM
Be sure the spacer is in there between the bearings. If a PO left it out, it would explain the bearings going bad.
thanks for the help guys. Adidas, is the spacer one solid piece? I'm assuming so. There is a spacer in there but I'm not sure it's the correct one. When I re assembled the bike after purchasing it, I tightened the front down and it seemed stiff so I backed it off somewhat, I had just assumed it was like setting bearing preload on a car, which after doing some research is not the case. I think I may have the wrong spacer which is prematurely wearing my bearings.

The Buddha

I made a tool to install the new bearings. Basically using the outer race of the old bearing and a center rod that is just about the same size as the axle welded to a plate. It will self center and not touch the inner race or the sheilds.
Cool.
Buddha.
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I run a business based on other people's junk.
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gsJack

I've never removed the caliper from the wheel to change a front tire or to replace wheel bearings, easiest to change bearings while inflated tire is still on the wheel I think.  Just reach thru one bearing with a long punch, rod, or big screwdriver you don't mind pounding on to knock out the opposite bearing.  Then thru the other way to get the second one.  A big socket with an OD just a bit smaller than the bearings OD can be used to drive in a new bearing until seated, put in spacer, and drive in the other.  The spacer between bearings is just a tad shorter than the space in the hub between bearing c'bores so the final tightening of the axle nut on the assembled wheel will squeeze down until the spacer is tight giving the proper bearing preload.

I put 80-100k miles on 4 Hondas and on my 97 GS without ever changing a wheel bearing so sealed wheel bearings properly greased have a long life in general.  But my 02 GS had the same loose wheel problem you have due to a worn bearing.  Don't know if you rode in heavy rain with that loose wheel but if you did you'll see why the brake pads run against the rotor on disc brakes, they keep the pads dry.  With the loose wheel there was no initial brake action for a moment or two until the pads wiped the rotor dry, a real experience.   :icon_lol:  Always replace wheel bearings in pairs.
407,400 miles in 30 years for 13,580 miles/year average.  Started riding 7/21/84 and hung up helmet 8/31/14.

adidasguy

Quote from: dropitlow88 on March 27, 2012, 06:19:07 AM
Quote from: adidasguy on March 26, 2012, 08:29:05 PM
Be sure the spacer is in there between the bearings. If a PO left it out, it would explain the bearings going bad.
thanks for the help guys. Adidas, is the spacer one solid piece? I'm assuming so. There is a spacer in there but I'm not sure it's the correct one. When I re assembled the bike after purchasing it, I tightened the front down and it seemed stiff so I backed it off somewhat, I had just assumed it was like setting bearing preload on a car, which after doing some research is not the case. I think I may have the wrong spacer which is prematurely wearing my bearings.

You can tighten the front wheel as hard as you want. With the correct spacer between the bearings, there is no pressure pushing in onb the bearings. Also possible the bearings were not seated all the way so they were too far apart. Tightening would push the center of the bearings in to the spacer putting undue stress on the bearings.

gsJack

You set the preload by tightening down the axle nut, it is not adjustable like car wheel brgs.  Amount of preload is determined by the difference in the spacer between brgs length and the distance between the brg counterbores in the hub, the spacer is a bit shorter causing the preload when the axle nut is tightened.

Sometimes the parts fiches show the size of parts like the spacer and it does in this case, your lucky.   :thumb: There is only one spacer size and it is:

SPACER (15.3X21.7X63)
09180-15011

If you look inside the wheel hub with the bearings out you'll see a pressed in insert where one of the brgs fits.  They must select the inserts sizes that are then permanently pressed into the hubs so all GS wheels will use same size spacer between the brgs to give proper preload when tightened down..
407,400 miles in 30 years for 13,580 miles/year average.  Started riding 7/21/84 and hung up helmet 8/31/14.

dropitlow88

Thanks for all the good info gentleman, will be ordering bearings this week. It appears one of the seals was damaged. I live at the end of a half mile long sandy road, sand and bearings don't mesh well lol. Guess it will give me some down time to get some more painting done. Thanks again

dropitlow88

got my new bearings ordered, ebay special, 6302-z steel shielded bearings. i'm going to fabricate some dust covers to keep out the gritty stuff because of my sandy road... hopefully i'll be care free for a while.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150763576466?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2648

adidasguy

Bearings should already be sealed on one or both sides.
AND..... Speedo covers it on the left. The wheel spacer is on the right side.
Should be OK as is.

dropitlow88

What does the spacer on the right look like? PO made a "custom" spacer, anyone have a pic?

dgyver

Not sure if this was mentioned ... put the bearings in the freezer over night. They will shrink a little and will be easier to install. 
Common sense in not very common.

adidasguy

Quote from: dropitlow88 on April 02, 2012, 10:05:42 AM
What does the spacer on the right look like? PO made a "custom" spacer, anyone have a pic?
Bazinga! You just found the cause of your front wheel problems.

The real front wheel spacer also protects the bearing. That with the built in bearing seal = no sand in the bearings.

See pictures here:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=gs500+spacer+front&_sacat=0&_odkw=gs500+spacer&_osacat=0

dropitlow88

Quote from: adidasguy on April 02, 2012, 11:30:55 AM
Quote from: dropitlow88 on April 02, 2012, 10:05:42 AM
What does the spacer on the right look like? PO made a "custom" spacer, anyone have a pic?
Bazinga! You just found the cause of your front wheel problems.

The real front wheel spacer also protects the bearing. That with the built in bearing seal = no sand in the bearings.

See pictures here:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=gs500+spacer+front&_sacat=0&_odkw=gs500+spacer&_osacat=0
mine looks like that, minus the shield... ugh, another part to order lol

adidasguy

#17
Parts whores have them.
I have to run home for a pair of euro bars I sold so I can pick one up. PM me for paypal info. My prices are cheap and I sell good parts. (See my karma - I LOVE karma korn...  and trade count)

UPDATE: Got one here at the office if you want it.

UPDATE UPDATE: Sending one out.

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