How to talk $ with a motorcycle dealer

[mass-hole]

I found a fairly decent deal on a new '11 Yamaha FZ8 at a local dealer and was wondering how people typically go about trying to work them down in price. I have emailed other dealers in the area that have 2011's in stock to see if I could get them to beat this guy out and try to pit them against each other for the sale. What other techniques might you suggest.

Thanks!

[The Buddha]

Get brochures and prices and what not from other dealers and carry em with you.
Cool.
Buddha.

[jestercinti]

I bought my 2009 Suzuki GS500F brand new from a dealership in Findlay, OH.  Went on Cycle Trader, and typed in what I wanted and made sure it was 'new'.  Searched by price...low to high.  Talked to 3 different dealerships before finding a bike in stock and a price we agreed upon within 300 miles of Cincinnati, Ohio.

The guy from Findlay and I worked out a price, and 1.99% interest rate for 60 months.  $3500 out the door.  That included OH taxes, title, fees, etc.  Took a month of drama, but I was happy with the price.

[mass-hole]

Unfortunately none of the other dealers will haggle with me. I tried to use the one low price i found as leverage but they said they couldnt beat it. invoice on the bike was 7595, so they are only 95$ over invoice, but their price also includes a $500 yamaha rebate. I am not sure how much wiggle room i even have at this point.

Does a dealer get $500 back from a yamaha rebate, or does that money go direct to the customer?

[adidasguy]

..... so they are only 95$ over invoice.....

I love that phrase. That isn't what they pay. How could they stay in business if they sell a couple bikes a day for a $95 profit?

Another phrase I love to hear is "profits were down" like we're supposed to feel the economy is bad and you're suffering just because your profits were a little less than last months profits? You're still making a profit!

[mass-hole]

Well i mean, no they normally dont sell for $95 over invoice. The MSRP on the bike is like $8700. This happens to be a left over and they are throwing in a $500 rebate. I just dont know if
a. the rebate goes to the dealer and the dealer takes $500 off the price for me,
b. or if the rebate goes directly to me, and the dealer really is saying i only pay $7690 once yamaha send me the rebate.

I guess either way that have some wiggle room.

[jestercinti]

If you can get it ask for a full breakdown of the price meaning bike 10000, rebate-1000, dealer good discount -1000. Tax title doc fees +500.

I have yet to find a dealer that will detail everything BEFORE you buy it. More interested in saying "only 150 a month". Worth a shot though.

I always ask for out the door price.  There is always a hidden fee somewhere.

[mister]

I'll write more when I get home. Suffice to say at thus moment the only price you want to talk about is"ride away" or "out the door".

Michael

[yamahonkawazuki]

deal sheets. get one from each. then go to next showing them what others could do

[redhawkdancing]

In another lifetime, I did internet sales for a car dealership. The way to get your best price, is first, make sure your comparing apples to apples. Pretty easy with low end motorcycles, because they usually only come in with one trim option. The second thing is ask for the "on the road" price. You can do this all by e-mail and phone. If they deviate from that when you come in, just walk away. Don't be concerned about how much money they are making. they are doing the best for their business. If it wasn't good for them, they wouldn't sell to you. 

I did meet a guy that was the area sales manager for Suzuki. He said if I wasn't getting a good deal on something, to give him a call, he would make it happen.  So, I guess you could try calling Yamaha and find out who their guy would be for your area.     

[mister]

- You'll get a better price to shop around when visiting a store in person as opposed to phoning around

- Remember the phrase "You've got to do better than that". If they know what they are doing they will come back with "how much better than that do I have to do"

- the only price you want to be talking about is "ride away" price

- make sure you are comparing the same deal for likewise. One branch of dealers down here was notorious for making slight changes to "on road" costs be providing short registration times. hard to compare when the $500 price difference is based on shorter registration and less govt tax as a result or Single Seat rego vs double seat rego.

- extras like Staintune or Akrpovic pipes and whatever else have zero value unless you want them. but for negotiations terms, they are a negative ok? (eg, to me a pool with a house is a negative so I would pay less for such a house not more. I don't want bigass wind screens on my bikes so a bike with one is not worth more, in actuallity the screen does NOT add value. So don't let the salesmen tell you otherwise).

- Never be so dependent on a deal you cannot walk away. ALWAYS be willing to walk away.

- The REAL price negotiations start when you tell them you are ready to buy TODAY.

- After asking them for their best price and getting not their best price and telling them, "you've got to do better than that", tell them ", lowball your offer by a grand or 1500 or even 2 grand. It's nothing personal right?

- After the lowball you might get "I cannot go that low". Unless you are speaking to the principal that is not entirely a truthful statement. In which case suggest he go check with his boss.

- Cost Price to the dealer really means, cost of bike, plus minimum profit they will except plus salesman's commission.

- Invoice price on a new bike is bogus. Dealers are given Floor Terms which means, they are given the bike for FREE for X days (say 90). The bike costs them nothing for 90 days, after which time they pay Interest on the bike only.

- Even though salesmen deny it, there are Bonuses for sales on new bikes. So, do all your deals near the end of the month when they are more likely to be close to reaching sales targets to get their secret bonuses from the manufacturer.

- If you are financing, get it outside of the dealership. They will not like it but having your money sorted Before negotiating is best.

There is more but this will get your started....

Michael

[slipperymongoose]

Always ask what the cash walk away price today is. Dealers always have room to move on prices no matter what they tell you, dont be forced into the sale if your not comfortable walk away. Another trick I found works is hummm and ahhhhh over the bike and say its right on your budget limit at its asking price and watch him drop hundreds off in a matter of seconds. Also if your buying privately have a bit of a chat with the seller and gauge his attitude then offer 750 - 1000 under his asking price and thats where i bargin from. But if the bike is under a $1000 bucks start bargining from 200 - 300 under the asking price.

[yamahonkawazuki]

offer to give em a slippery mongoose if they take a grand off.

[slipperymongoose]

Ha ha your a funny bloke yamma