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Front Brake

Started by KnuckleBallz, April 17, 2012, 10:31:07 AM

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KnuckleBallz

Just wanted to make sure the way my front brake behaves is normal for the GS....

When I squeeze it, I get stopping power immediately, although nothing too extreme. However there is a point (inch/inch an a half in?) where it all comes up on at once, almost like a switch has been flipped. Nose dives hard, etc. I'm glad the bike has this power, I'm just wondering if it comes on smoothly for you guys or in a manner similar to this. It's quite jerky.

89500inPA

Mine stops smoothly; this does not sound normal to me. You might inspect your front caliper while actuating the brake and listen closely. See if it is binding or catching. My understanding is that air or water in your brake line will just make the brakes feel soft, so I suspect you may need to rebuild the caliper. Also make sure your pads are seated correctly and have enough material on them.

Funderb

sounds like you have a bubble. Try to bleed your brake lines or refresh the fluid entirely, its cheapest. then see what happens.
Black '98 gs500 k&n Lbox, akrapovic slip-on, kat600 shock, progressive sproings, superbike handlebars, 40/147.5/3.5washers

"I'd rather ride then spend all my time fiddling trying to make it run perfectly." -Bombsquad

"Never let the destination cast a shadow over your journey towards it- live life"

Kijona

#3
The lever feels "notchy" right?

I'm having/had that problem on my SV650. 2 fluid flushes later and it's STILL there. Not as bad, but still there. I used the suction method the second time around and it STILL would not completely go away. It's beginning to piss me off, frankly.

Yours doesn't sound as bad as mine, though. And you have the advantage of only having one caliper, so you should be able to get rid of it pretty easily. A flush takes a few minutes and isn't very complicated. Just make sure you don't let go of the lever while you have the bleed valve open. OH and smear a little grease around the fitting so it won't suck air through the threads. :)

adidasguy

Possibly the master cylinder is getting work and sticky. One thing to do is lube the lever so it moves smooth. Also lube the point where the lever presses on the master cylinder.

Kijona

Quote from: adidasguy on April 17, 2012, 03:43:20 PM
Possibly the master cylinder is getting work and sticky. One thing to do is lube the lever so it moves smooth. Also lube the point where the lever presses on the master cylinder.

That's right...lube that lever...  :flipoff: :icon_twisted:

gsJack

Quote from: Kijona on April 17, 2012, 03:44:27 PM
Quote from: adidasguy on April 17, 2012, 03:43:20 PM
Possibly the master cylinder is getting work and sticky. One thing to do is lube the lever so it moves smooth. Also lube the point where the lever presses on the master cylinder.

That's right...lube that lever...  :flipoff: :icon_twisted:

I've had that sticky lever thing on the GSs a few times over the years.  Just shoot a bunch of WD-40 into the joints above and below the lever in the pivot area and it's good to go for another year or two.
407,400 miles in 30 years for 13,580 miles/year average.  Started riding 7/21/84 and hung up helmet 8/31/14.

Kijona

#7
Quote from: gsJack on April 17, 2012, 04:14:48 PM
Quote from: Kijona on April 17, 2012, 03:44:27 PM
Quote from: adidasguy on April 17, 2012, 03:43:20 PM
Possibly the master cylinder is getting work and sticky. One thing to do is lube the lever so it moves smooth. Also lube the point where the lever presses on the master cylinder.

That's right...lube that lever...  :flipoff: :icon_twisted:

I've had that sticky lever thing on the GSs a few times over the years.  Just shoot a bunch of WD-40 into the joints above and below the lever in the pivot area and it's good to go for another year or two.

Wow...I assumed the sticky lever was caused by a fluid issue. I just sprayed WD-40 all around the join and the contact area and that fixed it completely! It got better when I replaced the fluid before so naturally I assumed it was still a fluid problem.

Thanks Jack!  :cheers: :thumb:

Addendum: The Karma Corn goes to Adidasguy because he suggested it first! Hahaha!

gsJack

Quote from: Kijona on April 17, 2012, 04:52:14 PM
Quote from: gsJack on April 17, 2012, 04:14:48 PM
Quote from: Kijona on April 17, 2012, 03:44:27 PM
Quote from: adidasguy on April 17, 2012, 03:43:20 PM
Possibly the master cylinder is getting work and sticky. One thing to do is lube the lever so it moves smooth. Also lube the point where the lever presses on the master cylinder.

That's right...lube that lever...  :flipoff: :icon_twisted:

I've had that sticky lever thing on the GSs a few times over the years.  Just shoot a bunch of WD-40 into the joints above and below the lever in the pivot area and it's good to go for another year or two.

Wow...I assumed the sticky lever was caused by a fluid issue. I just sprayed WD-40 all around the join and the contact area and that fixed it completely! It got better when I replaced the fluid before so naturally I assumed it was still a fluid problem.

Thanks Jack!  :cheers: :thumb:

Addendum: The Karma Corn goes to Adidasguy because he suggested it first! Hahaha!

Thought it might take a couple more votes to convince you to try it.   :icon_lol:
407,400 miles in 30 years for 13,580 miles/year average.  Started riding 7/21/84 and hung up helmet 8/31/14.

adidasguy



         



Thank you!

Funderb

hahahaha.


A problem even simpler than I thought to suggest.
Karl Childers wins again.

"It ain't got no gas in it."
Black '98 gs500 k&n Lbox, akrapovic slip-on, kat600 shock, progressive sproings, superbike handlebars, 40/147.5/3.5washers

"I'd rather ride then spend all my time fiddling trying to make it run perfectly." -Bombsquad

"Never let the destination cast a shadow over your journey towards it- live life"

Paulcet

Quote from: adidasguy on April 17, 2012, 05:13:25 PM


         



Thank you!

LOL! 

I have to lube the pivot and end of the MC plunger about every 10k miles.

'97 GS500E Custom by dgyver: GSXR rear shock | SV gauges | Yoshi exh. | K & N Lunchbox | Kat forks | Custom rearsets | And More!

Kijona

Quote from: Funderb on April 17, 2012, 05:19:26 PM
hahahaha.


A problem even simpler than I thought to suggest.
Karl Childers wins again.

"It ain't got no gas in it."

HAHA!!! OH MAN...SO MANY PEOPLE DON'T KNOW ABOUT THAT MOVIE!!!

I'm giving you a piece of Karma Corn for that one!

KnuckleBallz

Cool I'm going to try the lube this evening...... :icon_rolleyes:

Here's the thing though- it was back to pretty much normal this morning- does that sound like a bubble? I'm guessing I should change my fluid sometime soon anyway. Glad this is a simple fix, it seems.


jestercinti

Quote from: KnuckleBallz on April 18, 2012, 06:30:12 AM
Cool I'm going to try the lube this evening...... :icon_rolleyes:

Here's the thing though- it was back to pretty much normal this morning- does that sound like a bubble? I'm guessing I should change my fluid sometime soon anyway. Glad this is a simple fix, it seems.

I'd bleed the system.
Bikeless and Broke at the moment...

adidasguy

The easy way to bleed is buy Kirby's Speed Bleeders.
They have a 1 way valve so fluid goes out and air won't go back in. Filled Phenix's rear brakes with fluid last night. Works so easy I can't believe it. No need for a brake bleeding pump unless you want to completely suck all fluid out.

KnuckleBallz

I was looking at this method, found in the wiki: http://www.bbburma.net/HowTo/BrakeFluid_Replace/

I'm guessing just add the speed bleeders to the equation & this is the way to go? (First bike I've ever worked on)

adidasguy

Yep. It really is pretty simple.
Speed bleeders help by not letting stuff get sucked back in through the bleeder hose. They're a one way valve rather than a straight opening.
If you change the bleeder thingy for a speed bleeder, have a rag handy. Fluid will spill out when you have the bleeder thingy off so do that swap out as fast as you can.

Kijona

#18
On the GS it's really easy. There's only one caliper. Just have yourself a seat and get to squeezing. :P Kind of like milking a cow...in a way.


Remember to grease the fitting around the threads so it doesn't suck air in. Just use something along the lines of molly or other thick grease. I used some synthetic brake grease. Worked great!

Also...as far as brake fluid goes...the stuff I use that works AMAZINGLY well for the price is http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_DOT-3-and-4-Synthetic-Brake-Fluid-%2832-oz-%29-Valvoline_7080002-P_N3222_T Less than 7 bucks and you get a whole quart of the stuff! One tip, and this is true of any brake fluid, let the can sit for a few hours before you use it. That way all the air can get out of it - you know, like what happens when you shake a soda bottle, only to a lesser and slower degree. Don't want air in the fluid!

Funderb

QuoteHAHA!!! OH MAN...SO MANY PEOPLE DON'T KNOW ABOUT THAT MOVIE!!!


hahahaha, glad i could bring some levity. it is a truly great film!
Black '98 gs500 k&n Lbox, akrapovic slip-on, kat600 shock, progressive sproings, superbike handlebars, 40/147.5/3.5washers

"I'd rather ride then spend all my time fiddling trying to make it run perfectly." -Bombsquad

"Never let the destination cast a shadow over your journey towards it- live life"

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