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Removing carbs out of a I4 (CBR600)? How do you do it?

Started by piresito, March 21, 2012, 08:15:55 AM

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piresito

Quote from: yamahonkawazuki on April 19, 2012, 03:30:03 AM
Quote from: piresito on April 19, 2012, 02:15:11 AM
Hi!
Valves adjusted (shim under bucket shaZam!!!), carbs clean and it's time to get them back in the engine...any tips?


P.S: I don't have a Sledgehammer around.

:thumb:
lube hte rubber boots slightly. since im assuming with tears you had to replace.

Yes, I had to replace 3 of them..wouldn't be fun after this work having a vaccuum leak in there. I already lube the boots and the intakes, and left ratchet straps overnight pressing the carbs on the intakes so that the rubber gets used to the "penetration". (lack of better terms)

How did you do in that "Viagra"? (The beer part already tried, no go...)
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BaltimoreGS


piresito

Silicone spray, one more lube to the collection!  :thumb:
Thank for that tip, will try that as soon as I can buy one.

As a side question, did ever happened to anyone of you that after a valve adjustment (shim under bucket, cams removed), all the clearances are less than expected to be? Like you expect a 0.21 clearance in a specific valve but you get only 0.17?

Regards,
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BaltimoreGS

Did you rotate the engine a few times to squeeze out any oil before taking the measurements with the new shims?

-Jessie

piresito

Quote from: BaltimoreGS on April 19, 2012, 05:49:43 AM
Did you rotate the engine a few times to squeeze out any oil before taking the measurements with the new shims?

-Jessie

Yep, a few turns....by your question, this never happened to you?  :mad: 
If by chance I overtorqued the holder screws, will it reduce the clearance or once the holder surface is seated in the head it won't interfere with the clearance?

I'm asking because, I'm using a needle torque wrench, although its range is 0-200NM which makes it hard to read a 12Nm value. I'm not sure if it did 12Nm, 11Nm or 14Nm, or whatever value close to that....  :technical:

Thanks.
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BaltimoreGS

#25
Torqueing just stretches the bolt, it shouldn't change clearances.  Are your after measurements out of spec or just closer to the tolerances than you expected?

-Jessie

The Buddha

I've never managed to get all the oil out of a shim over bucket valve with just engine rotation. A short ride or warm up will get it out for sure.
Shim under may be worse - or better not sure how yours were. But I'd trust the math and not worry the actuals after the adjustment.
Cool.
Buddha.
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piresito

Quote from: BaltimoreGS on April 19, 2012, 07:29:06 AM
Torqueing just stretches the bolt, it shouldn't change clearances.  Are your after measurements out of spec or just closer to the tolerances than you expected?

-Jessie

I expected them to be in the looser side of the tolerance, but they are in the tight side, two really in (or on?) the edge. Both intakes. Also, the valves that most needed adjustment were on the intake side, opposite of what happens in the GS! Strange hen?

I was afraid that cam holder would be too tight and might chew the camshaft. So if overtorquing wouldn't change this values, I will ride it this way to check her behaviour, I won't see other factor beside oil and temperature to change the clearance.
Timing is ok, and I measured every shim thickness.

I did flooded the whole thing in oil, even dove the shims in oil, and it was considerably colder weather when I rechecked the clearances. So there is still oil in there, sure it is the culprit (I hope...).

Again, thank you guys, your experience worth it's weight in gold!!
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piresito

Just to update the thread...the boots got into the intakes by them self...I think!  :cookoo:
Left them overnight with a tensioned ratchet strap, pressing them down, but there was no way they wanted to sit properly that night.
The next day, I went to check them and they are just nicely seated in their place.   :bowdown:

I think these carbs are fast learners, no way they are were going to win.  :technical:

I will update as soon as I (try to) fire it up.
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