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Bike laid down, oil light stays on

Started by 00sanchez, May 06, 2012, 09:42:48 PM

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00sanchez

#20


Ok, this is the pic of how I have it now. I started it up twice for about 5 seconds each time. Should I do it longer? No oil came out.

adidasguy

It appears you removed the small bolt that connects the wire, not the whole sensor. The sensor is that big silver bolt thingy with the black post then the brass screw hole on it.

00sanchez

 :oops: I had a feeling. Ok, I'll go remove it properly this time and crank it.

adidasguy

I think you better have a bucket handy........

00sanchez

Lol, yeah. I was thinking the same thing. Do you happen to know what size socket this takes? I just went out and bought a 22mm deep socket and it's still too small. Any bigger, though, and it looks like it wont fit in there.

adidasguy

Not at the Cave to check.
Probably have to remove the timing pickup. Looks like that's in the way.

If it  is the pressure sensor, it is part  37820-33D10  about $26  found on parts lists for "crankcase cover"

If not that, then time for the others to chime in.


bombsquad83

I'm just wondering where the 3" diameter puddle of oil came from in the 5 seconds or so that it was on the ground.  Should anything come out as far as fluids in that amount of time?

adidasguy

Once your fixed, use engine cleaner and get her spotless and dry. Then baby powder her. Run her. Look for oil.
Probably a leak somewhere that doesn't do much - like the valve cover. maybe the cam chain tensioner and there was a puddle of oil at the front of the engine that spilled out when tipped over.

I found Trey's leak that way. Cam chain tensioned has a minute dribble. A drop or two a day is all. Unfortunately the nuts for it are impossible to tighten without removing the carbs so that will stay that way for a long time (until the carbs need to come out).

00sanchez

I assumed it was oil as it was dark. It could have been gas, which is more likely since the puddle isn't there anymore.

Ok, so I have to take off the stator plate/signal rotor. Well, my son is helping me and I had him start loosening the rotor bolt, but he actually started turning the rotor itself (the larger 19mm thing you turn when adjusting valves). He turned it left and right. How bad is this? Again, mostly my fault for not being more specific, so I'm just going to let myself screw things up from now on.

Also, when I take this plate/genterator rotor off, will oil spill from it as well, or just when I remove the sensor?

adidasguy

Might not have to remove the rotor. The plate might be enough to be able to get a socket at the oil sensor. If off, the plate could be rotated or angled to get a socket on the oil sensor.

Probably should drain the oil. Then here we're getting a little beyond where I've taken things.

I've taking things apart and putting back together, but haven't bothered with only the oil sensor. I've removed the entire side (as seen in Junior's demise and the counter balance bearing - or what's left of it.) Did remove the rotor and timing sensor plate. Those are simple to do.

The rotor has an index pin. If the whole thing turned, you probably just turned the engine which is OK. You remove the rotor by holding it with a big wrench and using a small one on the center bolt. Use thread lock when putting it back on. There is no problem with removing it.

FYI: I believe it is suggested to turn the engine only clockwise. Counter clockwise only a very short amount as when going for top dead center, needing cams exactly right for valve adjustment, or something like that. Continuous only clockwise as that's the way the motor turns.

bombsquad83

Can I just ask why you aren't supposed to turn the engine the counter-clockwise?  What damage could it possibly do?  I think I turned mine a little counter clockwise when I was trying to get my camchain back on and properly aligned.

00sanchez

One of the screws just stripped on the stator plate, and I don't have the tools to continue with this. I've already dumped around 700 into this thing, and I've been able to ride it for about 5 days out of the 3 months I've had it. I think I should just stick to cars or wait until I can buy a new bike that doesn't break if you look at it funny.

Anyway, I appreciate the help through the multiple help threads I've started here. The universe has spoken, and I shouldn't be riding this bike. I'll likely be able to get half of what I paid originally with it in this condition...

adidasguy

Quote from: bombsquad83 on May 07, 2012, 03:41:58 PM
Can I just ask why you aren't supposed to turn the engine the counter-clockwise?  What damage could it possibly do?  I think I turned mine a little counter clockwise when I was trying to get my camchain back on and properly aligned.
I've been advised to only go clockwise. It may have something to do with the cam chain tensioner and its automatic adjustment. I really doubt a few turns backwards would do any harm - especially if you're adjusting cams and chain. Might be more of an issue if you were just there cranking it backwards.

Oh - the oil pump would be going backwards! Oil gets sucked out of everything rather than getting pumped into the bearings. So a few turns could be fine. Constant reverse turning would be running things dry.


Sanchez - don't give up. There is an oil pressure tester and a plug on the bottom right side. Maybe you can borrow a tester just to know if pressure is low or just the sensor? The Haynes manual shows how to do a real oil pressure test using a gauge screwed into that bottom right plug on the right side cover.

JIS screwdrivers and an impact driver are needed for some of the screws. I stripped an oil sump screw then hit it with the impact driver and it came right out.

Could be worse. You could have one of these situations and that is much worse than what you have now:



(Too soon?)

Paulcet

Quote from: adidasguy on May 07, 2012, 04:54:48 PM
Could be worse. You could have one of these situations and that is much worse than what you have now:



(Too soon?)

LOL!  Maybe too soon for Xune, but for Sanchez, perfect timing I think!

'97 GS500E Custom by dgyver: GSXR rear shock | SV gauges | Yoshi exh. | K & N Lunchbox | Kat forks | Custom rearsets | And More!

00sanchez

Well, I suppose I shouldn't give up. Yesterday was just a very bad day, I suppose. I know I didn't get a great deal on the bike, so all of this extra work just gets me a little irked. It was either this or an 04 honda 919. I chose this because I haven't ridden in a while and it was about 2k cheaper. At this point it's closing in on 1300 cheaper. By the end, they may have cost the same amount and I would have had more power, fuel injection and liquid cooling if I had went with the 919. So, this is the main reason for my baby quitting fit. It's compounded by having absolutely nobody around me that knows anything about bikes. All of my friends are like me and only work on cars.

I sent the wife to get an impact driver while I take off the cap and get things ready. I'm going to leave the oil in and hope for the best at this point. I just changed the oil/filter before taking it to the shop a month ago, and I use synthetic on all my vehicles. That stuff is not cheap. I have about 3/4 quart left in the last bottle, so I can top off with it.

I'm really crossing my fingers here, guys. Wish me luck.

adidasguy

You can drain oil into a clean container and put it back in.

00sanchez

Ok, before I go draining oil. I finally got the screw out. I got an impact gun, but it was too far stripped for any of my 8 different phillips bits to work, so I had to cut a standard slot with a dremel. So, I got the stator plate and rotor out. I had to make 3 return trips to autozone, but I finally got a deep well socket to fit the sensor -- it's a 24mm btw. So, no oil came out. Is this normal? In a previous post, somebody said to crank it for oil to come out.. will that be ok with the stator/rotor off?

Paulcet

Yeah, that will be ok.  You really don't want it to start, but you want it to crank fast enough to pump some oil.

'97 GS500E Custom by dgyver: GSXR rear shock | SV gauges | Yoshi exh. | K & N Lunchbox | Kat forks | Custom rearsets | And More!

00sanchez

Ok, cranked it until oil came out. Put everything back on and fired her up. Still got the light. What's the next step? Drain the oil and reinstall the oil filter to make sure no air is trapped in there as well? I've heard this happens, but I just can't grasp how it would stay like that with an active oil pump or why it would cause this issue even if there were air trapped in it.

BaltimoreGS

How long did you let the bike run?  It takes a little while for the oil to circulate through the system when you change the oil, may be having the same effect.

-Jessie

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