LEAKING GAS!!! Need advice for carburetor

[DoctorWhoDalek]

  Hey everyone, I am actually not new to the board, but it has been a while since i used my account and for the life of me i can't remember anything...not to mention i have long since changed emails.

So i have a 2000 GS500e and just recently I took apart my carbs to clean due to ill judgement on my part in letting it sit over winter with gas in it. Cleaned everything and put it back together and now when i turn the petcock to "RES" or "PRI" gas starts to leak out. The other day i finally got it to start and it slowly idled out and wouldn't start anymore. I took it apart again and found gas in the airbox and it had gone into the oil. I checked my float bowls and they looked fine.

So far, i have replaced the O-rings on the float and the brass float pin housing which i had found were dry and not fitting snug at all. I haven't tried it yet because i don't want another incident where gas goes into my oil and i want to make sure i cover all my bases before i put it back together.

So i was wondering if anyone has had this problem and if i have potentially fixed it with the new O-rings. I would also like to know what the jet screw settings should be for the jet next to the big main jet inside and the screw that is located just outside both carb bowls. Right now i have them all set to 2 1/4 turns OUT.

Thanks 

Here is a link to the pictures of the carbs. I marked in one detailing which screws i adjusted

http://imgur.com/a/CwWJY

[Paulcet]

Your gas leak problem was probably caused by the old o-rings.  Turn it on prime and check level with the U-tube method AFTER you turn that pilot jet back in.  The only screw to back out would be the one outside the bowls.

[craigs449]

+1....check your float levels....Probably set too low.

[cheetahman]

What he said.  All jets inside the bowls are non adjustable and should be screwed in tight.

[bombsquad83]

I had this issue when I bought non-OEM needle valve seat replacements.  No matter what I adjusted the float height to, gas would just keep flowing into the bowls.  The replacements were just not quite the right size, and they wouldn't seal.  I would recommend buying needle valves and and needle valve seats (they come as one part number) from a suzuki dealer.  Unfortunately they are not cheap.  $40 a pop on ronayers.com. 

Part number 21 --> Ronayers Fiche

Weird thing...I guess 1998-2000 has a different part number than the older bikes for the needle valve and seat.  I always thought they should be exactly the same.

EDIT: After looking further, the fiche shows a new part number replacing a discontinued one for the 1998-2000's.  However, it still continues to use the old part number as the correct part for 89-1997.  This is very odd.  These kind of things always make me wonder if the new part is better.

[DoctorWhoDalek]

Thanks for the information everyone. I am going to check out that video on how to check the levels as well. From what i am hearing and just to confirm, I am NOT suppose to adjust any of the jet screws out that are inside the bowls, only adjust the one OUTSIDE the bowls...correct? Does anyone know the adjustment for the outside screws off hand?

[bombsquad83]

All the jets on the inside should be screwed in all the way.  The only screws that get adjusted are on the outside, as shown in this picture as the mixture screws.


2.5 to 3 turns out from being lightly seated is typical.

I would definitely check the gas level in your bowls using the clear tube from the drain method.

[DoctorWhoDalek]

All the jets on the inside should be screwed in all the way.  The only screws that get adjusted are on the outside, as shown in this picture as the mixture screws.


2.5 to 3 turns out from being lightly seated is typical.
I would definitely check the gas level in your bowls using the clear tube from the drain method.

Awesome, thanks so much buddy. I will give that a go and see what happens.