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Stripped oil filter cover stud/nut. Options?

Started by Watevaman, June 03, 2012, 06:30:30 PM

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Watevaman

 Finally put back together the bike today and once again, one solution turned into a problem. Was changing the filter and threaded the nut back on and all of a sudden resistance got less. Now the nut just spins, won't budge. What are my options here? Are the studs replaceable if it turns out to be one of those?
Bike: 1990 GS500E (Vance & Hines full system, K&N Lunchbox, BM Clubmaster bars, Katana rear shock, 0.90 Sonic Springs), 2000 ZRX1100 (Kerker slip-on)
Location: Virginia

Tombstones81

#1
Yes they are VERYYYYY easy to replace.

one sec, lemme find the video.

(edit)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1aE_bntq_iE

there ya go, one of Balts videos.
94 GS500
01 Engine
Personally repainted!  (Traded)

87 Honda VF700C Magna
(Super Magna)

Watevaman

 That looks awesome for when I get the nut off, so thanks!

However, how should I go about getting the nut off? I've heard of nut busters and stuff, would something like that work?
Bike: 1990 GS500E (Vance & Hines full system, K&N Lunchbox, BM Clubmaster bars, Katana rear shock, 0.90 Sonic Springs), 2000 ZRX1100 (Kerker slip-on)
Location: Virginia

bombsquad83

If the nut just spins, why can't you just pull it off or twist it counter-clockwise until it grabs some threads and backs out?  I'm confused...

Watevaman

Quote from: bombsquad83 on June 04, 2012, 08:44:03 AM
If the nut just spins, why can't you just pull it off or twist it counter-clockwise until it grabs some threads and backs out?  I'm confused...

I couldn't tell you, but I've tried pulling it off with vise-grips and nothing. Probably just gonna cut it off. I already ordered a new stud and nut.
Bike: 1990 GS500E (Vance & Hines full system, K&N Lunchbox, BM Clubmaster bars, Katana rear shock, 0.90 Sonic Springs), 2000 ZRX1100 (Kerker slip-on)
Location: Virginia

Tombstones81

yeah sorry, forgot about that part after u asked about replacing it.

and ordered?
could have just went down to a hardware store most likely and gotten replacements instead of waiting on delivery.
94 GS500
01 Engine
Personally repainted!  (Traded)

87 Honda VF700C Magna
(Super Magna)

adidasguy

On one motor the PO had used a long bolt - not a shaft and a cap nut. So there is another option. I thought it was odd that there were 2 cap buts and a bolt head on the oil filter cover.
I had a few extra shafts (well, what part don't we have in the West Settle Bike Cave?) so I put one in where it belonged and used SS cap nuts on all 3 shafts.

BaltimoreGS

I think the idea of the stud and nut vs. a bolt is the stud usually breaks before the case is damaged when over torqued.

-Jessie

bombsquad83

Quote from: BaltimoreGS on June 04, 2012, 04:37:21 PM
I think the idea of the stud and nut vs. a bolt is the stud usually breaks before the case is damaged when over torqued.

-Jessie

Makes a lot of sense to me.

Watevaman

Quote from: Tombstones81 on June 04, 2012, 02:13:28 PM
yeah sorry, forgot about that part after u asked about replacing it.

and ordered?
could have just went down to a hardware store most likely and gotten replacements instead of waiting on delivery.

I also had to order some other parts, so I just threw this in. They aren't expensive or anything. And unfortunately, not many places have metric stuff here. All the mom and pops only carry US sized stuff and Home Depot/Lowes never had what I was looking for in the past so I figured I'd skip them.
Bike: 1990 GS500E (Vance & Hines full system, K&N Lunchbox, BM Clubmaster bars, Katana rear shock, 0.90 Sonic Springs), 2000 ZRX1100 (Kerker slip-on)
Location: Virginia

adidasguy

Hey, there. I'm in no way promoting using a bolt. (Other than a temporary fix). I mentioned it because someone else did that to Phenix's 2006 engine. I corrected it when I did the oil change last weekend.

Really could be used in an emergence, if you had to get on the road.

gsJack

A stud is used in an application like that so the threads in the aluminum block are not stripped or damaged by screwing a steel capscrew in and out every oil change.  Stud is screwed in tight once (unless we break it) and then the steel stud to steel nut take the wear and tear of constant changes.  I too would use a capscrew in a pinch until I got a new stud and acorn nut.  Been lucky so far but knocking on wood as I type this.   :icon_lol:
407,400 miles in 30 years for 13,580 miles/year average.  Started riding 7/21/84 and hung up helmet 8/31/14.

adidasguy

Seems another reason for 3 studs and nuts is so you can get the cap on. Without the studs sticking up, it would be very hard to get the cover in the right place. We know how hard it is to put on something then have to stick a bolt in and hit the hole 4 inches away. Really hard to get it straight let along find the hole.

Watevaman

 Got it out today. Put pressure on the back of the cover and just loosened the nut as if I were taking it off. Guess I wasn't giving enough pressure yesterday. And I got the stud out with some vise-grips.

Now, how should I go about getting the new stud in? Can I hand thread it or am I going to need to get a tool for it?
Bike: 1990 GS500E (Vance & Hines full system, K&N Lunchbox, BM Clubmaster bars, Katana rear shock, 0.90 Sonic Springs), 2000 ZRX1100 (Kerker slip-on)
Location: Virginia

adidasguy

I just screwed it in tight when I found a stud missing (long bolt was used).
Lock 2 nuts on it to make a make-shift head and get it in snug. Doesn't have to be a bazillion foot pounds of torque. just get it tight. Then use 2 wrenches to take off the nuts you tightened together for that make shift head.

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