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2004 GS500F Trouble Starting at Full Choke

Started by stokes776, July 24, 2012, 08:37:39 AM

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stokes776

Ive had my 2004 GS500F for a few weeks now and I have learned that to start it when cold it needs to be at full choke.

Lately (last three starts from cold) in additional to full choke I have had to give it some gas to keep from immediately dying.  I am worried that a problem is getting worse?

Am I overreacting or is there something I can check to ensure I will still be able to start it in the coming days/weeks.

Current Startup Procedure:
Full Choke
Hit Ignition, will come to life for about a second and then die
Hit Ignition, immediately give some gas to get RPM up, a couple of seconds pass and the RPMs jump up to 4k, choke down so RPMs more around 2k
Start Riding

iclrag

#1
I'm not sure if my bike is different, but 2K seems like a high idle to me. my bike warm idles just below 1.5K where does yours idle?

and how cold is it? that makes a big difference to. I always give my bike a little bit of gas when i start it, and 99% of the time i put it at about full choke, i think you should let it warm up for a minutre or two before you start riding.

jestercinti

That same thing happened to my 2009.  I then rejetted and my problem went away.  These bikes are set lean from the factory to pass EPA emissions.
Bikeless and Broke at the moment...

stokes776

Idle is normal once its warm, at about 1200-1300.  I ride away on it once its steady at 2K or so with the choke halfway on, and then before I get to the end of my street I turn the choke off all the way.

Temperature wise it has been extremely warm, upper 90's almost constantly.

Ive only been giving it about 30 seconds or so to warm up before riding away with half choke on, maybe I do need to give it a bit longer.

I just had never had to give it and throttle during warm up before, but if other people do that, that makes me feel better.  Maybe I will have to learn how to rejett!

jestercinti

Let it warm up for 1 minute.  That's what I did and it rode better.
Bikeless and Broke at the moment...

BockinBboy

I warm mine up for 2-3 minutes at 3k rpm, while I put on all my gear and close up the house and garage, and check over my bike.  I never have actually ridden with choke on though, always wait till it idles at 1250 without choke... I wouldn't want it to stall on me at the next corner, and chance a drop I could have avoided easily.  If it has sat for a couple days or more, I may have to set it on prime, but I try not to mess with the throttle during startup/warmup.

- Bboy


Sonic Springs, R6 Shock, R6 Throttle Tube, Lowering Links, T-Rex Frame Sliders, SW-Motech Alu-Rack, SH46 Shad Topcase, Smoked Signals, Smoked LED Tailight, ZG Touring Windscreen

SAFE-T

Check your spark plugs ~ by putting the choke on AND holding the throttle open you have carbon-coated your plugs, which is why the problem has gotten worse. Put the choke on full when starting from Cold and Do Not use the throttle.

SAFE-T

#7
It has taken 25yrs to convince my wife not to use the gas when starting fuel-injected vehicles, nevermind anything with a carburator LOL

BockinBboy

Quote from: SAFE-T on July 24, 2012, 10:53:38 AM
It has taken 25yrs to convince my wife not to use the gas when starting fuel-injected vehicles, nevermind anything with a carburator LOL

This reminds me, my grandma asked me to start her car the other day when she was leaving my place.  I thought  this was wierd since its 100F degrees out, but I went ahead and did it thinking she wanted it cooled down by the AC.  Apparently she watched me do it, and noticed and didn't get all the way in, and I just started it by putting the key in and pressing the button.  I come back in and she asks me how it started because I didn't get in to press in the gas pedal when I started it...  :icon_lol:

- Bboy


Sonic Springs, R6 Shock, R6 Throttle Tube, Lowering Links, T-Rex Frame Sliders, SW-Motech Alu-Rack, SH46 Shad Topcase, Smoked Signals, Smoked LED Tailight, ZG Touring Windscreen

DoD#i

I almost have to wonder if it's not wanting full choke, given that the hot weather is making halfway to warm? Full choke will start it down below freezing, so it might be overkill at 100F...

Opening the throttle gives it more air as well as more gas, which might help if it's got too much gas for the amount of air it's getting with no throttle, rather than not enough gas.

You might try 1/2 or 3/4 choke rather than full choke to start with and see how that goes?
1990 GS500EL - with moderately-ugly paintjob.
1982 XJ650LJ -  off the road for slow repairs
AGATT - All Gear All The Time
"Ride a motorcycle.  Save Gas, Oil, Rubber, Steel, Aluminum, Parking Spaces, The Environment, and Money.  Plus, you get to wear all the leather you want!"
(from DoD#296)

iclrag

Quote from: DoD#i on July 24, 2012, 01:56:34 PM
I almost have to wonder if it's not wanting full choke, given that the hot weather is making halfway to warm? Full choke will start it down below freezing, so it might be overkill at 100F...

Opening the throttle gives it more air as well as more gas, which might help if it's got too much gas for the amount of air it's getting with no throttle, rather than not enough gas.

You might try 1/2 or 3/4 choke rather than full choke to start with and see how that goes?
That's a good point, i always start full choke (and on it's own it'll rev up since it's too much) then quickly adjust to appropiate level of choke, this is a habit from dirt biking and whatnot, but it works for me. when it's already warm i usually go half choke then go from there.

mister

Ok, MY start routine in ALL weather is...

1 - choke on full
2 - press starter
3 - once it catches give a small throttle blip
4 - let it idle at 3k or whatever it wants to for 30 secs to a minute
5 - reduce choke until it is idling around 2k
6 - put on helmet, gloves
7 - sedately ride away
8 - after a couple of clicks turn choke off all the way

When a bike starts to become hard to start it is a sign the valves need checking. My bike is totally stock and this is my routine. Your sounds close to mine. If so, nothing wrong with your bike. If it gets worse, though, check your valve clearances.

Michael
GS Picture Game - Lists of Completed Challenges & Current Challenge http://tinyurl.com/GS500PictureGame and http://tinyurl.com/GS500PictureGameList2

GS500 Round Aust Relay http://tinyurl.com/GS500RoundAustRelay

codajastal

My routine: Put on all gear, start bike without choke, rev the guts out of it and fly down the road at full speed. If the bike keeps going I know I havent fukked it yet. :dunno_black:
I am not interested in anything you have to say
Don't bother talking to me, I will not answer you

BockinBboy

Quote from: codajastal on July 25, 2012, 03:27:19 AM
My routine: Put on all gear, start bike without choke, rev the guts out of it and fly down the road at full speed. If the bike keeps going I know I havent fukked it yet. :dunno_black:

:o
I hope this is one of those Aussie things where you are joking and the Americans are wondering if you really are...  :icon_lol:

- Bboy


Sonic Springs, R6 Shock, R6 Throttle Tube, Lowering Links, T-Rex Frame Sliders, SW-Motech Alu-Rack, SH46 Shad Topcase, Smoked Signals, Smoked LED Tailight, ZG Touring Windscreen

bombsquad83

Quote from: mister on July 25, 2012, 03:17:28 AM
Ok, MY start routine in ALL weather is...

1 - choke on full
2 - press starter
3 - once it catches give a small throttle blip
4 - let it idle at 3k or whatever it wants to for 30 secs to a minute
5 - reduce choke until it is idling around 2k
6 - put on helmet, gloves
7 - sedately ride away
8 - after a couple of clicks turn choke off all the way

When a bike starts to become hard to start it is a sign the valves need checking. My bike is totally stock and this is my routine. Your sounds close to mine. If so, nothing wrong with your bike. If it gets worse, though, check your valve clearances.

Michael

Exactly the same as mine.

stokes776

Thanks guys.  When you say check the valves, you are referring to the procedure that involves those valve shims I think right?

I have been trying to absorb a ton of information from the forums and wiki, but placing it all together takes a reference point about some specific task.

So the valve cleareances refer to little disks that adjust the distance of clearance within the valve? I open the bike up, measure something and then put in the proper disk?

I would assume there are many possible disk lengths, and thats where there are those 'Valve Shim Kits' I see on the stickies, because otherwise I would have to order and wait a few days while the bike is disassembled?

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