Replacing Float Valve Seat

[crobwolfpack]

Hey, when you are replacing the valve seat is it ok for it to kind of pop up a little bit?  They were originally in there snug, but after taking them out they dont want to be forced all of the way in. 

Also, is it a big no-no to use gasket sealer or something similar around the edge to be sure the O-ring is snug and prevent gas leaking?

[bombsquad83]

Just make sure it's in there straight and sticks in.  Maybe lube it up just a bit with some 2 cycle oil and push on it a bit more? 

See how there is a round part on the float the sits on top of the needle valve seat?  That will push the seal down when you tighten down the float bowl.

Is this an OEM replacement?  I keep telling people that I had issues with the K&L aftermarket replacements, and I have noticed that several others have had problems as well.

[crobwolfpack]

It's actually the K&L but I'm thinking about just going to NAPA and trying to get new O-rings.  Only one looks dirty, so I think that it is the one causing the leak into the crankcase.  Thoughts?

I also corrected the float height.

[bombsquad83]

If you can get them to work, then it's all good.  Test with the clear U-tube method when you are done adjusting.  I just could never get mine to work, so don't be surprised if it's a frustrating process.  I finally just bought OEM needle valves and they worked perfectly.

[Dizzledan]

I bought two of the rebuild kits on ebay for '89 carbs and everything worked fine for me. I cleaned the bodies where the valve seat sits and the new seat/gasket snugged down perfectly. Put a little bit of gas (or oil as mentioned above). It's okay if they're tight, you just don't want them too loose or the gas will flood the crankcase.