Riding Position

[Frost]

why are rear sets so expensive???

[dgyver]

CNC aluminum is one of those precious metals  

[chimivee]

it's quite a lot...

Try to find the SM bars used - check out the SV forums.  I think I paid  $100 for mine... still not cheap.  I believe the type 1 is lower than type 2 - I know a few of us hear have the type 2's, not sure about fitment of the type 1.  Or try the Srinath bar for way less money!

Aftermarket rearsets are kind of pricey... which is why I opted for some crashed cbr600 rearsets for 25 bones.

[pantablo]

Hey who you calling lower quality......

YOUR BARS.
I've seen the large versions of the pics and I think they are worth the price but not more. Their welding and finishing leaves much to be desired. Lower build quality in my opinion (granted, based on what I saw in a picture, I can only imagine how much worse it could actually be in person). Hell, If I can make out bad welds in the pictures, how much better could they be in person.

Dont get me wrong. I think its great that you're making these up for the group. Just call a spade a spade.

[pantablo]

Try to find the SM bars used - check out the SV forums.  I think I paid  $100 for mine... still not cheap.  

Mine will likely be available soon. maybe within a couple months. Type 2 (not type 1) bars for $80.

Aftermarket rearsets are kind of pricey... which is why I opted for some crashed cbr600 rearsets for 25 bones.

I have same rearsets as Chimivee but never installed them. They're a bit of work to get right as Chimivee will attest (you should do a write up to accompany my pictures, james).  These will also be for sale around same time...$50 (thats what I paid for them).

Various other parts will be available as well (fairing, hugger, gsxr shock, maybe progressive springs)-keep an eye out for them in for sale section or get your requests in early...planning for the Speed Four!

[The Buddha]

Hey who you calling lower quality......

YOUR BARS.
I've seen the large versions of the pics and I think they are worth the price but not more. Their welding and finishing leaves much to be desired. Lower build quality in my opinion (granted, based on what I saw in a picture, I can only imagine how much worse it could actually be in person). Hell, If I can make out bad welds in the pictures, how much better could they be in person.

Dont get me wrong. I think its great that you're making these up for the group. Just call a spade a spade.

The prototype in the picture is actually much worse looking than the actual ones. It also hae some exposed tubing at the welds... made on purpose so I can check the depth and strength of the weld, and they have not been ground and smoothed out too carefully. They also aren't painted over... agreed, the paint itself is'nt the best ... but the finish is much better on the ones I sell. Welds are cleaner, actually they are ground out smooth, the tubing is set and fitted without exposed holes, and overall made to look prettier. Yes stainless steel is goig to be still prettier but for mild steel its not bad. Its for function, comfort, and a solid feel... more than to look nice really... come on how many GS owners keep their bikes pretty... well pretty is fine but $140 new or $80 used pretty... I dont think so, I bought a beautiful gas tank from Greg G here for less than $80, a whole body set from KevinC for less than $80, and can buy 4 Katana shocks off ebay for $80. $80 is a decent chunk of change in GS parts. Heck So is $40, if I can figure how to make it for less I would have. But a plain drag bar, with rather paper thin wall costs $20 so $40 doesn't sound too bad. Also These are made on a GS. Not an SV. No fit problems what so ever. No brake banjo hitting the dash, no Katana grips not leaving room for the hardware nothing. Well enough ranting... Merry christmas...
Cool.
Srinath.

[pantablo]

The prototype in the picture is actually much worse looking than the actual ones. .

you should use more current pics to "sell" the product then. glad to hear they're better than prototypes.

And I agree wholeheartedly about the GS crowd not really being the types to drop huge wads of cash on stuff...most would never consider paying $700 for an exhast system but any other bike that would be standard fare...

mery christmas.

[rideLIKEjehu]

come springtime, i'll probably be in the market for new bars. some good quality pics of srinath's bars (unmounted, mounted, compared to stockers, etc...) would definitely be a big selling point in my book. right now, all i have to go by is some old shots of unpainted prototypes. i think there was a thread that had a few pics of the bars mounted, but i couldn't really make out a difference 'tween his and the stockers.

srinath, you need a marketing crew!  

[chimivee]

Mine will likely be available soon. maybe within a couple months. Type 1 bars for $80.

Pablo, I think yours are type 2's (higher than type 1) - same as mine.

[pantablo]

D'oh, that's what I meant. They're type 2's

[Frost]

which one is better?...
type 1 or 2?

[chimivee]

which one is better?...
type 1 or 2?

I don't think one is better over the other... just different.  It sounds like you're trying to get as aggressive a position as possible(?), so maybe you should give the type 1's a try (1" lower).  The type 2's on my bike put the bottom of my wrists right about level w/ the top of the forks... I think.

[pantablo]

type 1 is a little lower but not much-IMO not worth the extra $30.

[Frost]

that's what i thought too...not worth the extra 30 bucks

if i get the Type 2...will the bars touch the tank? or anything touching anything???

[pantablo]

nothing touches the tank-plenty of clearance. See my site for photos of tank clearance.

One thing that does touch is the forward point of the handlebars will rest against the tach and speedo housing. You can tilt them a bit up to avoid that but will still barely touch there. Has not been an issue though.

[Blueknyt]

An alternative to new rearsets are relocator plates. Easy to make and very cheap. 1/4" thick aluminum flat bar 2" wide cut to fit the frame. Drill 4 holes and tap 2 of them (or use a nut on the back) to mount the stock rearsets. Takes less than a hour to make a set and thats with basic tools. Cost is about $5 for the aluminum flat bar at most hardware stores. I use a palm sander with 220 grit sandpaper to give them a brushed aluminum look.

Do you cut and graft the shifter too? im considering relocator plates too, brake side isnt an issue i dont want to make the throw on the shifter any longer either.