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Damper Rod Bolt Removal

Started by usdtmcs1, September 11, 2012, 06:23:02 PM

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usdtmcs1

Ok, I need some help here.  I started the process of changing out my fork seals tonight.  All went well until the point where I needed to remove the damper rod bolt that is accessible from the bottom of the fork tube.  I have an impact gun fitted to a hex wrench (cut off the leg end) and I can't get the bolt to break loose.  I tried leaving one fork assembled and compressing the inner tube as far as I could by myself while hitting it with the impact gun and still no luck.  I am afraid that if I try too hard with the impact gun that I may risk rounding off the corners inside the bolt head.  Any tips or suggestions from anyone who has had previous issues with this same problem?

craigs449

Are you holding the other end of the damper rod with the "special tool" made of allthread and nuts?  If not, you are doing it wrong!  Watch Baltimoregs's video on youtube for the changing of fork seals
2001 Suzuki GS 500 "Commute Killer"
2008 Husqvarna 510 SMR
2002 Honda CR 250 "Project Pain-in-the-ass"
2001 Honda XR 50

usdtmcs1

Sorry, I forgot to mention that I have a 2006 model and I don't think that tool is applicable to my model year. Correct me if I am wrong.

Paulcet

You are correct. Craigs wasn't paying attention.

You will need full compression. Like dangerous, large tools and beer. And still may not get it. Seriously, I don't think they made them serviceable.

'97 GS500E Custom by dgyver: GSXR rear shock | SV gauges | Yoshi exh. | K & N Lunchbox | Kat forks | Custom rearsets | And More!

craigs449

Quote from: usdtmcs1 on September 11, 2012, 06:23:02 PM
Ok, I need some help here.  I started the process of changing out my fork seals tonight.  All went well until the point where I needed to remove the damper rod bolt that is accessible from the bottom of the fork tube.  I have an impact gun fitted to a hex wrench (cut off the leg end) and I can't get the bolt to break loose.  I tried leaving one fork assembled and compressing the inner tube as far as I could by myself while hitting it with the impact gun and still no luck.  I am afraid that if I try too hard with the impact gun that I may risk rounding off the corners inside the bolt head.  Any tips or suggestions from anyone who has had previous issues with this same problem?


Did I miss somewhere in this typing that we were speaking of a 2006? :dunno_black:

The newer ones are such a pain in the arse, you might as well get a decent set from a partout.
2001 Suzuki GS 500 "Commute Killer"
2008 Husqvarna 510 SMR
2002 Honda CR 250 "Project Pain-in-the-ass"
2001 Honda XR 50

jmelchio

Hi there,

Did this actually succeed and if so, how was it done? I'm trying to replace a fork seal on a 2006 F model and running into the same problem. The bottom bolt won't budge at all. Tried compressed, tried keeping it in place with a shaved down broom handle but no success so far.

Thinking about bringing the leg to a mechanic/dealer but would prefer to avoid that. Any suggestions?

Thanks, Joris.
2006 Suzuki GS500F
2008 BMW F800ST




adidasguy

The true Suzuki "Special Tool" doesn't work well. That is the conical one. I modified the tool for a different fork - making one that is pointed with sharp edges. Using that on the long handle with an impact wrench (aka Harbor Freight) makes it super simple to take apart AND re-assemble the newer forks. Under a half hour to do a pair of forks.

If you drill out the bolt - remember you still have to put it back together. If you don't do it properly, the bolt will work its way out. It must be in there really tight.

Close up of modified tip next to the one you are supposed to use:


The tip on the long T handle ready for use.

Slack

Tighten the bolt with the impact gun a couple of hits, then try loosening it.  You can often break stubborn bolts this way.
Quote from: MeeLee on June 07, 2015, 07:14:25 PM
Be aware, this is not very wise advise!

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