Mah Sickel it do need things!

[Janx101]

to start with .. 2006 gs500F with 15k on the clock (bought it at 9k-ish), dropped and slid on the left into a shallow ditch at about 40-50 kph by original owner.. left side case scratched.. left fairing impact cracked.. top fairing twist cracked .. right fairing twist cracked , 2nd owner was a skinny dude (good bloke though) that just commuted into Syd and back (40km round trip) 3 days in the week (average) , PLUS used way too much polish (i'm still finding it around the place in nooks and crannies!) and while he did keep the bike maintained .. his actual workmanship was ........ mediocre.... so many finger-tight only little bolts on the bodywork!

okie dokie .. a number of questions to clarify whats in my head after reading/searching around the board for a week or so..

1. couple weeks back i managed to 'pull' the lead out of the back of the right coil ... gsJacks comments over the years seem to indicate that some dialectric grease and a hard clockwise twist should seat the sucker back in there... but apart from that .. should i put some silicone in the back edge of hole into coil too,  to try 'glue' the lead in there a little? or something else .. or just grease and twist?

i'm gonna be doing the front forks in couple months with either .95 or 1.0 sonics ... and replacing the seals again (with oem this time) cos after i got a mechanic mate (who normally works at a tyre shop doing front end repairs on cars) to do it last time... the left still or has re/leaks .. also i am getting one of those bling stainless fork brace from reload soon to help the front end a little too .. so .. (and yeah i know fork seals can be just shaZam!)

2. With the forks .. could my extra weight (310lb/140kg with full gear) be adding to the fork leak problem? .. i mean .. the front springs are wishy washy as we all know .. but with the extra me .. would that possibly cause any mid structure flex of the fork and so stress the seal contact along the length of the fork piston? would wear on the bushings contribute to the seal leak (flex issues) .. and finally for this item do we think the fork brace will improve this situation possibly? or what function does the brace perform? (I gotta have it tho! so shiny!)

the mate did say the piston had some minor rustspot/pitting but he eased them off/away with really fine wet/dry gritpaper .. he also has done a LOT of 'backyard' forks (both standard and USD) for a the local riders and as far as i can find out this is the 1st bad-ish one .. the seals we used last time were the pyramid parts brand (any probs elsewhere with these?) .. plus some normal weight fork oil which i dont remember the brand but it was good stuff not cheapo.

3. the rear tank mount (where the right side square nut fell off) .. worth trying to weld the nut back on? light-ish gauge metal... or just ebay one? .. or just hold it with fingers and tighten it back up with the bolt?

will also be doing the R6 rear shock soonish but I think i have enough info for that.

think thats all for now .. my memory is prompting me that there is another thing.. without actually giving me the item! .. 

cheers peoples! 

[Janx101]

hrm ... no thoughts or advice at all? ... wow my 'people skills' must be workin to full potential again 

[Big Rich]

The fork brace is a good thing. Without one installed, put the front wheel between your knees and grab the handle bars - you can actually "twist" the front end by hand (at least on other / smaller bikes). The pressure exerted while riding is much greater.

While I can't suggest what size spring or weight of the oil, your weight could be the reason for the fork seal issues. At least, I know that when forks bottom out they can blow seals. But have a real good look at the surfaces of the upper tubes - even the tiniest scratch can cut up fork seals as well.

[Janx101]

Thanks BigRich, yeah i figured my weight would definately be contributing.. so its a good thing i do the sonics and brace for sure! .. dont wanna kill my bike suspension just cos my ... errrrr... 'portly but stunning physique'  ... is overloading the travel and bust the seals!...

the upper tube had real light tiny 'scabs' of "halfway to rust" marks on it ... now even with a magnify glass you cant really see where they were ...

thinking back i'm pretty sure i did bottom the front out fairly hard on a driveway at one point ... but why just the left one? .. the left/right tube guts are identical or different? .. most of the time?

[Big Rich]

Now that I can't explain. Maybe it had a slightly defective seal on the left? I dunno. But I'm sure a properly tuned suspension will help you out. Have a chat with the folks from Sonic (or Progressive) to make certain that the springs are going to work for you.

[Janx101]

starting to collect the bits to do the forks etc ...

however... i'm a #^$&$ clever bastard!! .. how clever am i?!?! .. this (&%#^ clever ... the plug lead to coil issue i mentioned above was my fault when i was in a rush trying to 'fix' a previous 'dodgy fix' of a headlight flicker problem.

so yesterday arvo i had some free time (1st time in weeks too!) .. i had a few various plug wiring connectors from a local electronic shop .. and i had my multimeter ... then i took off the right side fairing (easy really) .. teased the 'dodgy fix' and questionable existing plug out below the frame so i could replace it all ... spent 45 mins clipping and connecting and inserting all the little metal ends into the plastic housing .... still no solid headlight ... more off than on now ... so with a sigh i THEN pulled out the multimeter and started tracing where the power was .. and wasn't .... all the way up to the headlight connector! .. which had power!!! ..

but the bulb wasnt on ... oh and look.. if i switch it to high it works perfectly!  ... if i now pull out the bulb and look i can see that the low beam has been stuffed for a little while and only reason it was working sometimes was vibrations causing the remaining filament to briefly connect and work!! ...



so by breaking my own rule (which has been 'one of my rules' ) of not checking the obvious 1st .. i 'broke' the lead/coil connection, split a fuel line, had a loose (fell out) tank mount nut .. cos i was so sure i knew what is was... and subsequently (also due to time and work pressure) had the bike off the road for almost 2 months? ...  .... thats how ^#$#&^$ clever i am!!

yes sure you may argue that now at least i have a nice totally unmelted plug connection, a clean connection for the fuel hose, a new bulb for the light, some dielectric grease ($12 !!! for a 9.4g mini tube!!!!!!!) that i used to improve the re-jammed and twisted in lead to the coil .... and a running bike ..

but thats not my annoyance with it .. when ya break ya own procedure for checking/fixing a problem it always goes fun bags up!! .. i know this and i still did it!! 

oh and just to cap it all off i forgot where i put the rego label and spent 15 *&#%@&( minutes looking for it... i dont remember why i put it under the alarm clock beside the bed with other stuff over it...  .. found it though.

/ vent mode off

it WAS really satisfying to get out for an hours ride in the twilight though .. i didnt feel so frazzled about my own foolishness afterwards! 

[adidasguy]

So, where do you stand now on the problems?

I remember reading about the tank bracket? Just bolt it back. No welding. Or get a replacement bracket. They're cheap.

Forks: I spent a day rebuilding a few sets. It is fun - once you get the hang of it. Better springs and a fork brace are important. The air in the forks acts like a progressive spring as it compresses. Lots of fast compressing maybe could shorten the life of the seals. Too much oil would result in excessive high air pressure when they compress rapidly due to not enough air space.

The right tools and an impact wrench are very helpful in rebuilding forks.

So where do things stand now?

Too bad you're so far away. All you guys down there should donate towards an airline ticket and I'll fill a suitcase with spare parts!

[Janx101]

well.. the bike is rideable and working ... which is 100% better than yesterday morning 

once my funds move around electronically i am getting one of reloads fork brace plates , got about half the $ for a set of sonic .95 squirreled away, was nearly gonna go for the 1.0 but it may make it too harsh for future riders, gotta get some OEM fork seals.. as the pyramid ones 'looked different' to start with .. they fit ok but ... i dunno ..  ...

the mate that put the seals in last time DOES know what he is doing.. mechanically .. but i/we are at a loss as to why only the left tube was leaking b4 and only that one now? .. the right side is not leaking but it IS visibly 'wetter' on the chrome piston than the old seal effect. .. i keep thinking maybe bent fork from Orig owner crash .. but it never leaked till after i started riding .. so  .. my extra weight and somewhat aggressive riding causing a 'twist/flex/bend' in the mid shaft ?

gonna focus on fix the front end leak/heavier springs/fork brace as priority 1 ... then snag a katana rear shock online after that ..

amongst my riding buddies we have 'a complete set of good tools' so its just a matter of shuffling them around as needed.

the tank mount "square nut" did tighten back up securely with no slippage so thats a temporary bonus.

overall the issues are fixable and minor.. and i can ride for now .. so its all good. 

hmm my 'missing item' from 1st post ... when i turn the key on .. the park light and tail light come on .. but the headlight still wont light up until after i have RELEASED the starter button when its been sitting till its cold and occasionally when its warm (but its not flickering now cos of new bulb) .. from memory when i got the bike the headlight would turn on with the key before the starter .. go out when i cranked it and come back on when either release starter and or engine running ...

so ... what is the bit that 'kills' the light as you crank the bike? .. i will have a look in my manual at the wiring diag but not sure it specifies what 'widget' does the job... it cant just be voltage drop effect or the light would just dim ...

is it a electronic switch that re-routes electrons?, a mechanical cut out switch? .. part of the ECU box thingy under left side of seat? all to save excessive drain on the battery/maximise crank power during startup obviously ....

just wondering on it... whether electric/mechanical/both .. can it get worn/stuck/sticky etc? .. so it acts like a failing thermostat kinda thing... working but twitchy...... further investigation will be done. 

[adidasguy]

In 2006 they started routing the headlight through the starter button. When you press the starter, it disconnects the headlight. Release the starter and the headlight comes back on. That's all there is.

Forks go in and out of the triple with no effort (after you pry the clamps open a little).

If, after slipping in one fork, the other does not go straight into the top triple, three:

1. Triples are not aligned. Loosen the top triple bolt and let them freely float into position
2. Bent fork tube
3. Bent lower triple. One member had that happen - the 2nd fork tube missed the top triple by 1/4" because the accident bent the lower triple. I sent a replacement triple and things fit perfect.

[Big Rich]

Janx, I know it's possible to wire in a simple automotive relay to the headlight. But the light would come on with the key switch, shut off as you hold the Start button, then turn the light back on once you release the button. Maybe a PO installed one?

[Janx101]

hmm thanks lads... but from when i had the thing all in bits looking for the orig light/plug issue last year there are/were no add-ins ... and the PO (i'm #3) wasn't that kinda tech person.

think i'll just try get a chance to check earths and volts when it happens before i hit the starter .. .... and check the guts of the starter too...

addy .. is the start switch on the bars the DIRECT cut-out point? simple knife switch effect .. or is it relayed/directed to another part of the harness? down at the starter motor maybe? ... just trying to narrow the field of operations a little .

[adidasguy]

Direct cut out.

Switch in 2001-2005:


Start switch in 2006+:


For reference: the 3 different connectors on the right handle bar controls 2001+.
LEFT = 2006+ (K6 through K9)
Middle and Right: Not sure. Haynes manual shows only 5 wires for K1, k2, k4 and k5. I recall there were differences in K1-2 and K4-5
Before buying a right control switch - be sure you get the right connector!

[Janx101]

mmm 'kay .. ta for the images... yeah i 'know' the changes in plugs ... sigh ..

i'll open the right one up and check it over with the meter ... maybe even use some of my 'nasa budget' dielectric grease tube! 

[adidasguy]

Changes in plugs were there for reference for others as I have mentioned it a lot - never posted a picture of it.
I often include extra information just to complete the topic so when someone reads it they get the complete picture.

Otherwise enjoy an ice cold 

....and when the current Family Guy I've seen, I go take pictures and post technical stuff.

[BockinBboy]

I often include extra information just to complete the topic so when someone reads it they get the complete picture.

This cuts down down search time a lot! Digging for bits on information referenced only once in a single thread 6 years old on the same topic of 20 more different threads but just like it... this way is most helpful, and I know I have benefited from it.

- Bboy

[Janx101]

Yeah all cool and good .. My sigh about different plugs was more that I'm pretty sure the plug I just changed in ... From the electronic store ... Will need half doing again if my right side switch gear is playin up .. Big sigh for changing my own plug before the end of the dramas  ... Appreciate that the info is there for all