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[s]Gear Shift Getting Stuck[/s] Replacing Oil Filter Cover Nuts and Drain Plug?

Started by ilarson007, September 20, 2012, 04:04:13 PM

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ilarson007

QuoteHi all,

So this happens to me quite frequently.  I'll start moving in first, and then I'll go to shift to 2nd (or 3rd, or 4th), and the shift lever will not move.  Like, at all.  I have to release pressure then jam on it to get it to move.  Sometimes it happens in the same acceleration 3 times in a row (like, when I try to shift into 2nd, 3rd, and 4th consecutively).  Also, sometimes it's like it gets caught in a false neutral, and I have to really hammer on it up and down multiple times before it goes back into a gear, then I can get it back to first.

Does anyone know what is wrong, or how I can fix it?  I saw some posts talking about oil;  I put in Mobil 1 Synthetic 10W-40 when I recently changed my oil.

TL;DR:  Gear level sticking, A LOT.  Can anyone help?

Thanks all.

I think the previous issue is just my steel tipped boots.  That being said, I now have an oil leak, which I believe is coming from the oil filter cover.  I'm also fairly certain I stripped 2 of the 3 nuts that hold the cover on, as well as the drain plug (I need to get myself a torque wrench).  Where can I find replacements for these?  (some info in reply #9).  The closest Suzuki Dealer is about 45 minutes away, so if I could buy some normal bolts/nuts at a hardware store that would rock.

craigs449

sounds like you are not disengaging the clutch the whole way.....or the clutch needs adjustement....how many miles?  Usually when itges difficult to shift into neutral, its a sign that the oil is worn out and needs changed.
2001 Suzuki GS 500 "Commute Killer"
2008 Husqvarna 510 SMR
2002 Honda CR 250 "Project Pain-in-the-ass"
2001 Honda XR 50

Dizzledan

It could be a badly adjusted clutch, could be that your shift forks are broken/bent. Turn the bike off and rock it back in fourth, if you can move the lever while rocking, you just need to adjust your clutch cable.

ilarson007

It's got about 8300 (maybe 8400) miles.  I'm sure I pull the clutch lever all the way back, even though it feels as if it disengages very near it's stationary position (i.e., clutch disengaged, engine connected to transmission, in gear, etc).  I also just changed the oil at about 8200 miles.  LIke I said, I used Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 10W-40. 

Do sequential transmissions have shift forks?  I'm not aware of how they work; all I know is you have to go into each gear sequentially (hence the name).

jestercinti

This may help...sometimes your clutch plates get dirty and need cleaned:

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=61833.0
Bikeless and Broke at the moment...

Dizzledan

Quote from: ilarson007 on September 21, 2012, 04:49:38 AMit feels as if it disengages very near it's stationary position

Thats a badly adjusted clutch cable. Do a search for 'adjusting clutch cable' and you'll find the thread that talks about the 3 ways to do it. Basically you want 4mm of play between fully closed lever, and beginning to grip on the clutch. It should disengage fully about 1/2-3/4 way through the lever travel.

seamax

This is also common when there is too much oil or not enough oil.

BockinBboy

Being that the oil was changed just recently, I would like to say that it must be a factor.  Depending on how bad the oil was and how long it was in there previously, an oil change can move around some dirt and sludge that can mess with you clutch plates. 

Also, as Seamax mentioned, too much oil can actually make it hard to shift.  Not to beat a dead horse on the subject, but make sure you are checking your oil level properly.  THE proper way has been debated, but a good method is to always check it on the center stand, with the engine slightly warm.  If you fill it up to the full line while on the center stand while cold, it will be too much oil, and at a minimum you will have trouble shifting into neutral.

- Bboy


Sonic Springs, R6 Shock, R6 Throttle Tube, Lowering Links, T-Rex Frame Sliders, SW-Motech Alu-Rack, SH46 Shad Topcase, Smoked Signals, Smoked LED Tailight, ZG Touring Windscreen

bombsquad83

Quote from: BockinBboy on September 21, 2012, 08:50:49 AM
Being that the oil was changed just recently, I would like to say that it must be a factor.  Depending on how bad the oil was and how long it was in there previously, an oil change can move around some dirt and sludge that can mess with you clutch plates. 

Also, as Seamax mentioned, too much oil can actually make it hard to shift.  Not to beat a dead horse on the subject, but make sure you are checking your oil level properly.  THE proper way has been debated, but a good method is to always check it on the center stand, with the engine slightly warm.  If you fill it up to the full line while on the center stand while cold, it will be too much oil, and at a minimum you will have trouble shifting into neutral.

- Bboy

And don't screw in the dipstick at all when you check.

ilarson007

Oh, the beloved centerstand.  Is there an easy was to get it on that thing?  Also,  If I perhaps need to replace the nuts that hold my oil filter cover on, can I buy any 6 x 1.00 mm thread cap nuts?  Does anyone know of the specs on the drain plug also?  I think I need a new one of those.

ilarson007

Oh, and I know my last post shifted from the original topic but... I only really notice the shifting problem when I'm wearing my steel tipped boots, so I think it has to do with that.

bombsquad83

To get it on the centerstand, lean bike up against you so it's balanced.  Then grab hold under the rear subframe where it meets the main part of the frame (just behind the frame petcock).  Use your other hand on the handlebar.  Use your right foot to push down the centerstand while you lift up and back with your arms.  It's quite easy once you get the hang of it.

BockinBboy

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWi7zgBYEsU
Video made by adidasguy showing his method of getting the bike onto the centerstand.
He grabs ahold of the area of the frame bombsquad was referring to.  A solid piece of the bike, and it won't get away from you even if it isn't centered while you raise it up.

- Bboy


Sonic Springs, R6 Shock, R6 Throttle Tube, Lowering Links, T-Rex Frame Sliders, SW-Motech Alu-Rack, SH46 Shad Topcase, Smoked Signals, Smoked LED Tailight, ZG Touring Windscreen

ilarson007

Quote from: BockinBboy on September 24, 2012, 12:34:42 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWi7zgBYEsU
Video made by adidasguy showing his method of getting the bike onto the centerstand.
He grabs ahold of the area of the frame bombsquad was referring to.  A solid piece of the bike, and it won't get away from you even if it isn't centered while you raise it up.

- Bboy

Awesome video! Thanks.

7thgear

Get your clutch checked. The same problem of gear stuck in neutral happened to me once and also I was experiencing problems with getting the bike into neutral as I stopped on signals. Got the clutch checked and gear shifting is as smooth as anything. The problem in my case was that the bearings of the clutch system needed replacement, some of them were broken and the clutch gave a hard feeling too.

Good luck  :police:
1992 GS500E Blue, 1992 GS500E Black, 2003 Honda CG125.

My web: wanderersbook.blogspot.com

ilarson007

Quote from: 7thgear on September 25, 2012, 09:42:24 AM
Get your clutch checked. The same problem of gear stuck in neutral happened to me once and also I was experiencing problems with getting the bike into neutral as I stopped on signals. Got the clutch checked and gear shifting is as smooth as anything. The problem in my case was that the bearings of the clutch system needed replacement, some of them were broken and the clutch gave a hard feeling too.

Good luck  :police:

Checked by who?  Like a dealer?

Also, bought 3 cap nuts that are 6x1.00mm thread but I wasn't a torque wrench that did in-lbs at both Home Depot and Sears.  Guess I get to look some other places tomorrow.  Yay.

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