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A/F Mixture Screw Adjustment

Started by mass-hole, October 23, 2012, 06:59:54 AM

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mass-hole

I believe i need to adjust these and attempted to the other day, but do to clearance issues and my fat hands I couldn't get in there to turn them without burning myself. Is there a specific tool that people recommend using to turn these without burning hands, the only thing i have is a flat blade drill bit for my screw driver.

In addition to that, how do you make sure that each carb is appropriately adjusted without the other carb affecting it. Run the motor on one cylinder at a time and tune each one accordingly or am i over-thinking this?
Current Mods: .85 kg front springs/15wt shock oil, R6 Rear Shock, 45T Rear Sprocket

weedahoe

The correct and accurate way to adjust and test each carb would be to add O2 bungs in each side of the exh with the crossover closed off and install a wideband 02 sensor and read the actually Air-to-Fuel ratio

I use an Innovate LC-1 for this.

Like you though, I found the adjusting of the air screws to be difficult. I wasnt please at the cost but I did buy a set of Factory Pro extended air screws. Now I can easily adjust them with no problems.I did seat them and mark them with a marker so I can count the revolutions or see the adjustments

Pics of those are here - http://sdrv.ms/Sr20jp

2007
K&N Lunchbox
20/62.5/142.5
chromed pegs
R6 shock
89 aluminum knuckle
Lowering links
Bar mirrors w/LEDs
rear LED turns
89 clip ons
Dual Yoshi TRS
Gauge/Indicator LEDs
T- Rex sliders
HID retrofit
GSXR rear sets
Zero Gravity screen
Chrome Katana rims
Bandit hugger
Custom paint
Sonic springs

802 305

I had the same problem, and I have skinny hands... I took off the starter cover for a little more clearance, then used a 1/4 ratchet with a flat head in it... put a thick rag on the engine and went for it. I didn't do it while running, though. Just adjusted, tested, adjusted, tested.
from the 802 all the way to the 305!
and 907 in the summer!

noiseguy

I took one of those tiny, cheap key-fob sized screwdrivers and filed a flat that would fit the idle screw with the carb in place.
1990 GS500E: .80 kg/mm springs, '02 Katana 600 rear shock, HEL front line, '02 CBR1000R rectifier, Buddha re-jet, ignition cover, fork brace: SOLD

DrtRydr23

I wear gloves when I adjust the A/F screw and use a flat blade bit from an old "adjustable" screwdriver tool.  I've heard a lot of different things when it comes to adjusting the mixture.  I haven't done it in a while, but if I remember you balance the carbs first with a vacuum balancer with the engine running normally and warmed up.  After it is balanced, turn one air screw in until the engine starts to miss, then back it out 1/2 a turn so that it idles smoothly.  Do the same on the other carb.

I don't remember where I learned this, and I'm not sure if it is the most appropriate way to do it, but it has worked for me so far.
1997 GS 500E, Black:  Fenderectomy, Superbike bars, progressive springs, Cobra F1R slipon, short stalk turn signals. - SOLD

2008 SV650, Blue, K&N in airbox, otherwise stock

Suzuki Stevo

Quote from: weedahoe on October 23, 2012, 07:40:20 AM
The correct and accurate way to adjust and test each carb would be to add O2 bungs in each side of the exh with the crossover closed off and install a wideband 02 sensor and read the actually Air-to-Fuel ratio

I use an Innovate LC-1 for this.

I wonder how I made it so many years by just counting turns out?  :dunno_black:
I Ride: at a speed that allows me to ride again tomorrow AN400K7, 2016 TW200, Boulevard M50, 2018 Indian Scout, 2018 Indian Chieftain Classic

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