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Where to buy clutch plates?

Started by bombshelter13, November 18, 2012, 08:19:44 AM

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bombshelter13

Hey,

I just got my bike back from the shop (it was in for a valve adjustment and brake pad replacement) and the mechanic said that I'd probably need a new clutch soon. I figured that I'd buy the parts myself and just pay them the labor of replacing it, since I can probably find the parts for a cheaper price and I've heard of people having good luck with aftermarket clutch plates.

The mechanic said I'd probably need to replace both the friction plates and the steel plates.

So: where can I buy these? I've seen EBC friction plates listed on various sites, but haven't seen the steel plates. It'd be great if I could get links to the exact product needed for both the friction plates and the steel plates.

Thanks!

EDIT: I'm in Canada, so it would be great if an online store that ships to Canada could be found.\
EDIT: The bike is 2007 GS500F.

TonyKZ1

#1
Well, I just bought a Barnett clutch spring kit for my bike, ordered them from http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/ I'd imagine they also have the clutch parts for your GS500. You might check Barnett's application guide http://www.barnettclutches.com/products/clutch_plates_springs.aspx for the part numbers. And here's the link to the guide for the Suzuki GS500.
Tony
1997 Yamaha Seca II - mostly stock, Racetech upgraded forks, FZ6R rear shock, Oxford Sports Style Heated Grips, Barkbusters Blizzard Cold Weather Handguards, a Scottoiler vSystem chain oiler. My Mileage Tracker Page.

DrtRydr23

Here is a link to the parts for a 2000 GS 500E.  The springs and friction plates come as a set.  The steel plates are sold individually.  I'm not sure how many there are.  There should be a parts diagram on that website under OEM parts that will show you.  I think this will fit most years of the GS500.

http://www.bikebandit.com/clutch-parts/n1443?m=22351&f=2
1997 GS 500E, Black:  Fenderectomy, Superbike bars, progressive springs, Cobra F1R slipon, short stalk turn signals. - SOLD

2008 SV650, Blue, K&N in airbox, otherwise stock


bombshelter13


weedahoe

I have two complete clutch baskets sitting here. It's the baskets, springs, bolts and all the plates. c you are interested in them, let me know.
2007
K&N Lunchbox
20/62.5/142.5
chromed pegs
R6 shock
89 aluminum knuckle
Lowering links
Bar mirrors w/LEDs
rear LED turns
89 clip ons
Dual Yoshi TRS
Gauge/Indicator LEDs
T- Rex sliders
HID retrofit
GSXR rear sets
Zero Gravity screen
Chrome Katana rims
Bandit hugger
Custom paint
Sonic springs

DrtRydr23

Quote from: bombshelter13 on November 18, 2012, 08:38:35 AM
Actually, looks like this set would be cheaper:

Steel plates: http://www.bikebandit.com/kg-clutch-factory-clutch-steel-drive-plate?m=16095

Friction plates: http://www.bikebandit.com/ebc-ck-series-clutch-plates?m=16095

Springs: http://www.bikebandit.com/kg-clutch-factory-high-performance-clutch-spring-set?m=16095

Just looking for confirmation that these are the right parts before ordering.

If bikebandit says they are for your machine, then they will fit (at least I've never had an issue with them).  Make sure you get the right number of steel drive plates.  Also, depending on the number of miles/km on your bike, the baskets might be getting a little notched out.  No way to really tell unless you open up the casing and look.  It might be worth while to consider weedahoe's clutch sets.
1997 GS 500E, Black:  Fenderectomy, Superbike bars, progressive springs, Cobra F1R slipon, short stalk turn signals. - SOLD

2008 SV650, Blue, K&N in airbox, otherwise stock

bombshelter13

Okay, looks like I'll go with the second set of plates/springs I listed.

What gaskets do I need? Just the one listed as 'GASKET, CLUTCH C' on Bikebandit? (part no 1038449 on Bikebandit)

Suzuki Stevo

What kind of life did that '07 live to require that the clutch plates be replaced? I have beat the Batshit out of bikes for years and have never replaced any clutch components  :dunno_black:

Can you make the clutch slip?
I Ride: at a speed that allows me to ride again tomorrow AN400K7, 2016 TW200, Boulevard M50, 2018 Indian Scout, 2018 Indian Chieftain Classic

weedahoe

Agreed, not normal for w wet clutch to need to be be replaced but I guess it can happen if really abused.

Here are the two sets I have




2007
K&N Lunchbox
20/62.5/142.5
chromed pegs
R6 shock
89 aluminum knuckle
Lowering links
Bar mirrors w/LEDs
rear LED turns
89 clip ons
Dual Yoshi TRS
Gauge/Indicator LEDs
T- Rex sliders
HID retrofit
GSXR rear sets
Zero Gravity screen
Chrome Katana rims
Bandit hugger
Custom paint
Sonic springs

DrtRydr23

Quote from: Suzuki Stevo on November 18, 2012, 09:10:06 AM
What kind of life did that '07 live to require that the clutch plates be replaced? I have beat the Batshit out of bikes for years and have never replaced any clutch components  :dunno_black:

Can you make the clutch slip?

+1.  OP:  you only need the steel plates if they are worn too far.  Same with the basket.  I changed a clutch on an old dirtbike and the basket was worn to crap with major notches, but typically it takes a long time (and a lot of clutch drops) to cause something like that.  Same thing with the plates.  Unless you are repeatedly dropping the clutch at starts, or wheelies, or whatever; you probably don't need the steel plates.  There are thickness tolerances that you can measure to be sure.  I'd definitely replace the friction plates, and I usually do the springs too.  Also, the clutch cover gasket, just so you don't have to go back in and change it if the old one leaks.  The gasket you referenced looks like the correct one.
1997 GS 500E, Black:  Fenderectomy, Superbike bars, progressive springs, Cobra F1R slipon, short stalk turn signals. - SOLD

2008 SV650, Blue, K&N in airbox, otherwise stock

DrtRydr23

You know, clutch replacement isn't that hard to do.  If you have a service manual, tools, and space then you could DIY.  You're buying all the parts anyway.  Just pick up this guy: http://www.bikebandit.com/motion-pro-clutch-holding-tool to hold the basket while you unbolt/torque down your components.  It would be worth a shot if you've got the time and inclination.
1997 GS 500E, Black:  Fenderectomy, Superbike bars, progressive springs, Cobra F1R slipon, short stalk turn signals. - SOLD

2008 SV650, Blue, K&N in airbox, otherwise stock

Suzuki Stevo

I was actually referring to the friction plates, unless that mechanic actually rode the bike hard enough to make the clutch slip, he is talking out of his ass, because that is the only way to make that call  :icon_idea:
I Ride: at a speed that allows me to ride again tomorrow AN400K7, 2016 TW200, Boulevard M50, 2018 Indian Scout, 2018 Indian Chieftain Classic

DrtRydr23

Quote from: Suzuki Stevo on November 18, 2012, 09:36:26 AM
I was actually referring to the friction plates, unless that mechanic actually rode the bike hard enough to make the clutch slip, he is talking out of his ass, because that is the only way to make that call  :icon_idea:

Really?  My bad.  I've only replaced them on dirtbikes and an old pickup so far, but as the clutch adjustment starts to run out I'm assuming you'd need to replace friction plates eventually....if you own it long enough that is.
1997 GS 500E, Black:  Fenderectomy, Superbike bars, progressive springs, Cobra F1R slipon, short stalk turn signals. - SOLD

2008 SV650, Blue, K&N in airbox, otherwise stock

Suzuki Stevo

#14
Quote from: DrtRydr23 on November 18, 2012, 09:51:47 AMReally?  My bad.  I've only replaced them on dirtbikes and an old pickup so far, but as the clutch adjustment starts to run out I'm assuming you'd need to replace friction plates eventually....if you own it long enough that is.

Having wrenched for a living, anytime I hear a mechanic making statements like...

"new clutch soon"
"replace both the friction plates and the steel plates."


Does it actually slip? If so, did the mechanic offer to check the Rough Clutch Adjustment?<#1 cause of slipping clutch's that are not worn out.
The OP is looking for parts that may not be required?  :dunno_black:

EDIT: If the mechanic is going by the "Clunk" when you put it in gear? If that's the case...I wouldn't let the guy touch my lawn mower.

Does it actually slip?


I Ride: at a speed that allows me to ride again tomorrow AN400K7, 2016 TW200, Boulevard M50, 2018 Indian Scout, 2018 Indian Chieftain Classic

adidasguy

There is no way you could have put enough miles on your 2007 to require a new clutch.

It just needs proper adjustment.

bombshelter13

#16
Okay, sounds like maybe my mechanic is exaggerating the problem a bit. I think I'm just going to skip the steel plates, and order the friction plates, springs.

I've got the clutch adjusted according to the procedure described in the Haynes manual. It does seem like there might be a little bit of a slip when taking off from a start - if I try to get up to 30 mph in 1st gear, RPMs and speed are both steady to about 20 mph, then from 20 to 30 mph the RPMs do jump up quite a bit before the road speed catches up. I'm planning on taking a few long trips next spring, and figure 'better safe then sorry', I don't want the clutch failing when I'm out on the highway far from a bike shop.

Quote from: DrtRydr23 on November 18, 2012, 09:35:27 AM
You know, clutch replacement isn't that hard to do.  If you have a service manual, tools, and space then you could DIY.  You're buying all the parts anyway.

I'm thinking about doing it myself, but am undecided. I moved into a new place this year, and don't have a garage, and my tool selection is limited, so I'd need some extra stuff. Right now, I don't even have the things I'd need for an oil change, so if I'm doing that at the same time as the clutch plate replacement I'm gonna need some drain pans, something to put the used oil in and a drop cloth, which probably adds another 50$ or so. I've heard of laying the bike down on the left side to avoid doing the oil change when replacing the clutch plates, but I don't really have the upper body strength to lift the bike back up right now and it'll be due for an oil change by then anyhow.

Quote from: DrtRydr23 on November 18, 2012, 09:35:27 AMJust pick up this guy: http://www.bikebandit.com/motion-pro-clutch-holding-tool to hold the basket while you unbolt/torque down your components.  It would be worth a shot if you've got the time and inclination.

How would this tool be used? If it's useful, I'm willing to shell out the 18$ for it, but I'm not really sure what it's for. I watched a few videos on YouTube about replacing clutch plates, including one on a GS500, and didn't see this tool being used, so I'm not quite sure of it's purpose.

So, looks like me shopping list is now: friction plates, springs, clutch cover gasket, oil filter, oil, and maybe that tool.

Funderb

stevo and adidas save another poor schmuck from spending way unnecessary $$$ before the mechanic can run off into the night.


Wet clutches last a very long time, especially on these lower power/torque bikes. I firmly believe that the clutch in out bikes is WAY overbuilt, including the total SA of the mating surface. With proper adjustment and the use of PROPER oil, these clutches will last and last. The oil part is important.
Black '98 gs500 k&n Lbox, akrapovic slip-on, kat600 shock, progressive sproings, superbike handlebars, 40/147.5/3.5washers

"I'd rather ride then spend all my time fiddling trying to make it run perfectly." -Bombsquad

"Never let the destination cast a shadow over your journey towards it- live life"

Suzuki Stevo

#18
Quote from: Suzuki Stevo on November 18, 2012, 10:03:47 AMcheck the Rough Clutch Adjustment?<#1 cause of slipping clutch's that are not worn out.
The OP is looking for parts that may not be required?  :dunno_black:

See how I quoted myself?

Unless you have done the complete adjustment below...you are Pissing Into The Wind   :whisper:   (anything to do with wind and pissing is not good)

#6 is the Rough Adjustment Screw, too tight and your clutch will slip, 1/4 turn out is plenty
I Ride: at a speed that allows me to ride again tomorrow AN400K7, 2016 TW200, Boulevard M50, 2018 Indian Scout, 2018 Indian Chieftain Classic

DrtRydr23

Quote from: bombshelter13 on November 18, 2012, 11:28:56 AM

How would this tool be used? If it's useful, I'm willing to shell out the 18$ for it, but I'm not really sure what it's for. I watched a few videos on YouTube about replacing clutch plates, including one on a GS500, and didn't see this tool being used, so I'm not quite sure of it's purpose.


Actually, I don't think you need that tool unless you are actually removing the baskets, which you won't need to do if you are just changing friction plates and springs.  It's been a long time since I've done a clutch, and I had to replace baskets so had to get the tool.  You actually shouldn't need it.

Definitely check your clutch adjustment like Suzuki Stevo is saying first though before you buy any parts though.
1997 GS 500E, Black:  Fenderectomy, Superbike bars, progressive springs, Cobra F1R slipon, short stalk turn signals. - SOLD

2008 SV650, Blue, K&N in airbox, otherwise stock

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