Racing front suspension set up (help needed)

Started by spcassell2125, January 19, 2013, 07:52:01 AM

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spcassell2125

OK so I am about to put in my 1.0 front springs for the front forks I am a 245 pound guy and with racing stuff lets say I am 260 for s**ts and gigs.

After draining my forks taking out the old oil ect ect. When putting in my new spings how much oil should I put into the forks? Any suggestions on best kind of oil? Also when cutting the pvc pipe how much pre load should I give myself aka how many in inches or however you want to put it should I cut the pipe to before putting everything back in?

Thanks for the help guys!

Also with the r6 shock do you have to move the front end up or down at all compared to stock or should it be good to go for next track day?

:thumb:
2009 gs500f

HID
fenderectomy
bar ends
two brothers exhaust
Lunchbox
Stage 2 jetting
R6 rear shock
shorty levers (black)
Flat black
1.0 sonic front springs

burning1

Your fork oil level is set based on the height of the top of the fork oil below the top edge of the forks with the springs and spacers removed.

On the GS500 with after-market springs, ~100mm is absolutely the highest you can go before you hydro-lock the forks and blow out your fork seals. I'd recommend starting at a level of 120mm or so. Basically, remove the springs and spacers,  add 350ml or so to each fork leg, and then add or remove until the fork oil is 120mm from the top of the fork tube. Add a little more oil after riding if you find you need extra bottoming resistance.

After you've built the forks, tie a zip-tie around the fork leg just above the oil seal, and use it to measure how close the forks get to bottoming out.

The R6 shock is very close to stock length, so you probably won't need to adjust the front. I dropped my front end 10mm or so from stock, to improve turn-in. Dropping either end will reduce cornering clearance, which is at a premium on the GS, so don't go too far with this adjustment.

adidasguy

Good to know if you're measuring oil level with the fork compressed or extended.
All info I've seen is to measure with form tube compressed and as you mentioned, without springs or spacers inserted.

burning1

Thanks, I forgot to mention that. Yes, always measure with the forks fully compressed.

spcassell2125

Quote from: burning1 on January 21, 2013, 04:35:02 PM
Thanks, I forgot to mention that. Yes, always measure with the forks fully compressed.


what size should my pre-load be? Like what size should i cut the pvc pipe to put in the fork?
2009 gs500f

HID
fenderectomy
bar ends
two brothers exhaust
Lunchbox
Stage 2 jetting
R6 rear shock
shorty levers (black)
Flat black
1.0 sonic front springs

BockinBboy

If I remember right, from installing my Sonics... I cut the spacers to be level with the top of the fork tube, so that the preload was the amount that the fork cap pushed them into the tube.

- Bboy


Sonic Springs, R6 Shock, R6 Throttle Tube, Lowering Links, T-Rex Frame Sliders, SW-Motech Alu-Rack, SH46 Shad Topcase, Smoked Signals, Smoked LED Tailight, ZG Touring Windscreen

burning1

That's more or less correct.

I usually cut the pre-load spacers so that the length of the emulators (if you have them) springs, washers, and spacers are the same on the new forks as they were on the old forks. What you really need is a starting point. After that, measure your static sag and add or remove preload as necessary to get it correct.

BockinBboy

Thanks for mentioning that.  The springs I bought came with washers to add or take out as needed to adjust the preload in increments for an individual's static sag... I think I lucked out on not needed to adjust with the washers.

- Bboy


Sonic Springs, R6 Shock, R6 Throttle Tube, Lowering Links, T-Rex Frame Sliders, SW-Motech Alu-Rack, SH46 Shad Topcase, Smoked Signals, Smoked LED Tailight, ZG Touring Windscreen

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