Chain/sprocket wear causing excessive vibrations?

[linker]

Hi all,

I'm new to this forum and a newbie rider., but mechanically minded  I have a 2007 GS500.

I bought my bike used a few months ago and have had pretty much no problems with it except a 2 year old battery needed to be replaced (routine maintenance). I've rode about 1,500-2000 miles on it already with no problems.

Until now. My question is whether uneven chain wear can cause excessive vibrations at high rpms, or if there might be something else causing it.  Also, another question about why a single sprocket pin might be worn a lot more, as well as what causes a chain to wear out a lot more in one area than another.

Recently I'm experiencing high vibrations when I get over 60mph. Also, the chain got really slack and started slapping the center stand and bolt behind the front sprocket cover.  I tightened the chain and all was well for a few weeks, then it loosened again had high vibrations again and started slapping the bolt/stand again.  Tightened again, this time I rode about 20 miles and it was the smoothest ride I've had on the bike so far (maybe tightened the chain to the optimal tightness?). But then the ride back 20 miles was high vibrations over 60mph again and the chain was a bit more slack when I got home.

There is very noticeable difference in chain slack around the chain, some parts tight and other parts very loose, so maybe some links got super worn but others not.   So I measured the chain spread and it's just barely over the limit to have it replaced, according to the bike's repair manual. So I'm going to replace the chain. But the sprockets look pretty good, especially the front one.  The back one has 1 pin that's very worn down, and the 2 on either side are slightly more worn than the rest, but the rest all look pretty good (attaching photos in a bit).  So question two, is what causes just one pin to be worn significantly more than the rest? 

I'm thinking to replace chain and sprockets to see if that fixes everything, but the whole single sprocket pin wear is what I'm wondering about. especially since the sprockets look to be in pretty good shape (again, I'm a newbie, and only referencing by diagrams and other pictures and videos I've seen of sprocket wear). And the bike only has 13,000 on it, so probably original chain and sprockets. 

My headlight's filament is also dislodging (not burning out, but actually falling off) while riding over 60mph, which is probably due to the high vibrations at just the right resonance. throwing that in there in case someone has had similar problems or it makes a difference, but I think it's the chain causing high vibrations.

Thanks in advance!

Hard to tell from the picture, it doesn't show the highly rounded top on the pins like it looks in person. Noticeably different than the pins around it.

[mustangGT90210]

You chain is shot! And being that it kinks in the same places, that probably causes your one tooth to wear. Replace the chain and sprockets and ride on 

[adidasguy]

Chain getting tight then loose then tight then loose means time for new chain and sprockets.
Excessive noise or vibrations indicate time for new chain and sprockets.
Things like this indicate time to replace the chain and sprockets.

[linker]

oh yeah, now that I look at it as the chain wearing down the sprocket in the same place, it does look like it was worn down over time, so the chain was probably looser in that spot for some time.

@adidasguy, none of the links look like that. I did loosen the whole chain and pushed the links together back and forth to see if there was any give, and in the slackest part of the chain there was some give. 

The question was more just about if this all is the cause of the high vibrations, which sounds so far like 2 others are in agreement with my analysis.     

The front sprocket looks like it's in great shape, so I was considering not replacing it....and the rear sprocket looks to be in good shape besides the few pins.  I just don't have the cash right now and was considering just getting a new chain and that's all.  But I can see how either uneven chain or uneven sprockets can wear the other out in both directions. This is getting my brain thinking clearer about all this, motorcycles are new to me.

[weedahoe]

Yep! When in doubt, change it out!

[slipperymongoose]

First up welcome. Second yep change your chain and sprockets out. When your chain goes slack frequently like that its another sign along with all of the above.

[linker]

Thanks for the warm welcome and replies, you all helped me solitify my direction and thinking.

[slipperymongoose]

Should also say since your new to riding stay with stock sprocket sizes and when you buy a chain go with a DID chain, either oring or xring.

[linker]

Yeah I'm not looking to do any wheelies any time soon or anything, gonna go stock, I like the speed of it already.     

I was looking into brands of chains and haven't found much online for recommendations except for a few also saying DID chains.  Lots of info on sprockets and chains on what to look for when buying, but not a lot of recommendations out there, even in this forum I didn't find much.  Any good recommendations on both other than DID chains???

[adidasguy]

I don't think there are a lot of recommendations. Why? Because even a cheap chain will last 10,000 miles if properly maintained and an expensive one won't last 2,000 miles if not properly maintained.

There's Volar in lots of colors. DID, Renthal, BikeMaster, and others. Probably the only consensus is more people prefer a rivet link over clip type. Both work. Street driving probably doesn't make any difference. Racing I'm sure would want rivet links. OEM has no master link so you cut it off or use a chain breaker.

Same with sprockets. There aren't a lot of choices. Used ones from low mileage bikes from a bike breaker can be a really good buy.

Sun makes sprockets as does JTS. Only  thing is be sure you get the correct front sprocket: shoulder on the hub or no shoulder? It does make a difference.

Often you can get a good deal in a sprocket/chain combo pack.

Stay stock until you ride more. 16 front and 39 rear.

[linker]

@adidasguy   yeah that makes a lot of sense.  

I'm going with rivet links and o-ring chain for sure, and trying to find a good deal on combos, but have found some good deals on them separately already.

I was just going to find a video online on how to do the whole chain and sprocket replacement and read the repair manual too. I saw the thread in here about how to do it, but it just said you can take the chain off after removing the back wheel, but I thought I remember seeing something near the chain rail that might need to be removed as well, and have read about using chain breakers as well.  And I like how most of what I've seen so far says "remove the rear axle" without any explanation as to how to do that. lol  when I had it apart looking at the chain, the axle was still in there pretty tight even when loosened. Was just thinking a hammer would do it being careful of the threads (like hammer and block of wood). Was going to look that up before doing it though.

If there are any suggestion as to tools or tricks to getting the chain and sprockets off, and the new ones on (like connecting the last rivet link on the chain), would love to hear them. But I'll figure it out and read up, and may even take some pics or something to help anyone else out.

[jestercinti]

Cut the old chain off.  I have a DeWalt Sawzall.  Takes 35 seconds.

Sprockets?  The front has a spring clip on newer models at least, whereas the rear is held on by bolts.  Be careful with the front.  You spread the open ends of the clip, and pull apart (hard to explain), or get a spring clip tool to do the job.  Just be careful or SPRONG....then it's 35 minutes tearing the garage apart to find the clip.  Ask me how I know this.

Chains are either a clip or rivet link.  Both will need a press, although the clip link will need a much smaller and cheaper press than a rivet.  If the press is small and requires an allen head wrench, it's for a clip-on, whereas if it's larger, $60, and looks like a Clamp, it's for rivet links.

If done properly and safety wired, clip links will likely not fail.  Those that fail often are installed improperly.  Read instructions, look on YouTube, and search for how to properly install clip links.  Also search for GSJack's chain posts.  He has been using clip links without failure for 90,000+ miles.

[ohgood]

excessive vibrations = something else is wrong. check your wheel bearings, then the cush drive. if all of those are perfect, check your tires for knots or uneven bead seat. a damaged tire will let go at the worst possible time. what you're describing is not something i've experienced from a worn chain, but yours does need replacing.

wheel bearings: grab the wheel at the top and try to push/pull it from the side. any movement at all = replace wheel bearings

cush drive: grab the rear sprocket (gloves!) and repeat the push/pull on the sprocket. you should see little to no movement, and feel nothing other than the chain moving on the cog.

tires: jack one end up, spin the tire lightly. if it falls quickly to the same spot, its out of balance. (when you cut off the old chain, the rear should spin easily)

tires: spin one at a time and look for HOPS or BUMPS from the top and the side. any and all hops or bumps are bad. replace the tire.

listen, when you're slowing down, listen. any screaching that decreases with speed may be (Just) your chain, but could also be a wheel bearing failing.

i'm suspect of wheel bearings because of the condition of the chain, and suspect of the tires because it starts at 60 mph.

post up what you find. people learn from you

[twinrat]

if your chain has no tight spots or movement in the links and your sprocket is as good as the one in your photo,i would say that that wear mark on the sprocket is caused by a combination of to tight a chain and chain misalignment, misalignment is my choice.the marks for alignment were not very accurate on my bike so i put a steel bar down the side of the bike against the side of the rearwheel and squared it up to the front wheel and remarked one side of the swingarm when it was true. Mine was 2 grooves out.Only vibes i get are from the engine  and ive only adjusted my chain when i put on a new tyre <<dont forget to lube your chain regulary to >>

[linker]

ok, after replacing the chain about 2 weeks ago and going on enough rides, I can say the vibrations were due to the chain!  I haven't even replaced the sprockets yet, the wrong back sprocket shipped so I haven't even done them yet, but will once I get the rear one.   I'm sure that will make it even smoother.    Wish I coulda done them all at the same time, but oh well.

[ohgood]

Yeah I'm not looking to do any wheelies any time soon or anything, gonna go stock, I like the speed of it already.     

I was looking into brands of chains and haven't found much online for recommendations except for a few also saying DID chains.  Lots of info on sprockets and chains on what to look for when buying, but not a lot of recommendations out there, even in this forum I didn't find much.  Any good recommendations on both other than DID chains???

the oem, o-ring chain will last 20,000 miles if cared for (NOT OVER CLEANED) properly. DID makes great O and X ring chains.

go with an odd front / even rear or the opposite, and things will last longer, also.

remember, the more abrasive/involved the cleaning of your chain, the more lube you'll pull OUT of the orings.

carry on