Solution to GS500 cold-bloodedness?

[Foxtrot Tango]

"Warm up, damn you!"

In fairness, I'm being a little crazy. I do ride to work, even when it's 40 degrees F (4 deg C for the rest of you) out. My bike appears to be quite cold-blooded, it will start if you choke it properly, but it dies out fairly easily, such as when coming to a stop for a sign or a red light. It starts back up with no issues, but this is annoying -- and embarrassing when it happens in front of traffic.

How do you deal with this issue? Do I need to spend more quality time warming it up? Or is this just a sample of the wonders of carburetors?

[adidasguy]

How long do you go before taking off the choke?

I start up. Bikes immediately go to 4k RPM. I give them 15 seconds or so and reduce the coke down to 2k RPM and take off. After a minute or so I can remove the choke.

Maybe you have tight valves? How clean are your plugs?

[Foxtrot Tango]

I choke her about halfway .... that sounds wrong. Let's start over.

I start with the motorcycle choked to about half to 3/4 choke for 30 sec - 1 minute. She only does about 1200-1600 RPM though, which is what she does unchoked and warm. Full choke actually gets me less RPM. I don't ride with the bike choked.

No idea on valve tightness and plug cleanliness, but the plugs were changed recently so I think they should be okay.

[codajastal]

She only does about 1200-1600 RPM though, which is what she does unchoked and warm. Full choke actually gets me less RPM. I don't ride with the bike choked.

One of my GS's does this exact same thing. I would be interested to know why as well,
I can tell you it is not the valves or anything to do with the motor as I swapped the carbs out and it does not do it with new (old) carbs. The bike I put the carbs into now has the issue.

[adidasguy]

I'd say someone an expert on carbs needs to diagnose your issue. All my bikes - full choke. They start and all go to 4k RPM. Then I reduce choke as they warm up over the next minute or less (depends on how cold it is).

I haven't rebuilt every carb. Suzi is still stock. Phenix is stock, but probably dirty. Junior was rebuilt. Quin is probably really crappy (it will get cleaned or swapped with a cleaned set). I only mention  that so you know I have done nothing special to get my bikes running when cold. All but Quin have Brisk plugs.

Maybe give background of what you've done to the carbs and air filter - if anything.

[Zethioth]

One of my GS's does this exact same thing. I would be interested to know why as well

+1

It seems quite a few GS do this. I think it indicates a minor problem. If you give it a little throttle after a minute does it jump up to the 4k range? 

[codajastal]

One of my GS's does this exact same thing. I would be interested to know why as well

+1

It seems quite a few GS do this. I think it indicates a minor problem. If you give it a little throttle after a minute does it jump up to the 4k range?

no

[ohgood]

partially clogged choke circuit.

it should start and go straight to 4000 rpm's, then you lower it to 2000 or so for a minute. within 4 minutes it should be ready to ride, without bog. if not, jetting and/or choke is wrong.

don't leave it idling for 20 minutes either, there is no magical EFI computer to keep things from over revving or over heating.

[J banning]

+1.
Exactly what he said.

[bombsquad83]

partially clogged choke circuit.

it should start and go straight to 4000 rpm's, then you lower it to 2000 or so for a minute. within 4 minutes it should be ready to ride, without bog. if not, jetting and/or choke is wrong.

don't leave it idling for 20 minutes either, there is no magical EFI computer to keep things from over revving or over heating.

I was thinking it's probably this.

I had similar problems with one cylinder dying out on choke.  I found that it was due to the small fuel jet that is integrated into the float itself was clogged.  It's not really surprising that this jet would get clogged considering it lays right at the bottom of the float bowl where any sediment would settle.

[jestercinti]

In addition to what everyone else says...

I ride in very cold weather...down to 18*F.  Here's what I find...

Below 35*F, my 2009 GS is very cranky.  It's air cooled and tempermental.  I'm +1 on the pilot from stock.  If not already, you can do this and it will warm up better.

I set the choke on fully, and start riding.  1/2 mile down the road, I adjust to 1/2 choke, and after 1 mile, take the choke completely off.  There is some hesitation every time I adjust the choke, but it quickly goes away.

You can also unscrew your idle mixture screws a bit for winter (out = richer...in-leaner).  That might help.  And if you have not adjusted your valves in 4,000 miles...that's your problem right there.

[gsJack]

I just described in another thread how my 97 GS would rev up to 3-4K after started on full choke like many have described and how my 02 never has done that riding year around in temps down below freezing.

Of course I must close the choke circuits some in a minute or so when the 97 type revs or the 02 bogs down after starting on full choke but many must not do that final crucial fine tuning of the choke air/fuel ratio that replaces the computer starter circuits on the modern EFI miracles they build now, only takes a few seconds longer to get going smoothly on a GS on a cold day.

After closing the garage and climbing back on the GS I repeatedly blip the throttle sharply while adjusting the choke slowly down to a point as low as I can and still crack the throttle open sharply without bog.  It really takes less than a minute and after having done it for so long it's done now without thinking about it which is a blessing for a man of my age.

I've always been able to ride off on the 02 able to open the throttle as much as I wanted to as soon as I'm out the drive and on the street and it never dies at the stop light down the block or the stop signs at the next two blocks.  It's time to close the choke completely after the stop light if I remember.    

Both my GS's have had completely stock untouched carbs all the way for the many years and miles I've used them, never even saw the need to sync the carbs since I never tore them apart.

PS:  Ohio riders do not fear the cold!

[steezin_and_wheezin]

+1 on exhaust valves.

Did a good adjustment on my old gs before selling it to my friend. After loosening up the ex valves it started/warmed up like a completely different bike

[jestercinti]

GSJack speaks the truth.  OH Riders are tough.

[Bluesmudge]

+1 on the pilot jets and setting exhaust valves too the looser end of spec or beyond .08 - .13ish has pretty much cured the cold blooded aspect of my GS.

Proper exhaust valve clearance made the biggest difference for me. Before that my GS would die as I coasted up to any stop sign or red light. Took 15 minutes of riding to warm up. With proper valve clearances: by the time I put my helmet and gloves on, close the garage door and make it out of my alley the choke can come off (about 1 minute).

[sytsmadad]

Mine did the same for about a month and then the choke seized. The problem was that the cable had rusted inside the outer shell making it stick or not engage all the way. I ended up replacing the choke cable. problem solved. Let me know if you need any tips on replacing the cable. It is pretty easy, it is just a tight space. I did mine with the tank on. Tank off is way easier.