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Hey new to the forums

Started by Nightswitch, February 28, 2013, 07:30:56 PM

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Nightswitch

How's it going guys ? Just bought one of these wicked little rides for a great price. I got a 95 GS500 with a couple problems here and there. The bike would start a full choke . So carb issue ? The chain has a little rust on it so i don't know if I should take it off and soak it in some 90 weight. Any answers would be appreciated.

I've been lurking around for a little, and this seems like a great community. Just a little about myself I live in the Tampa Bay Fl, area 25 years old, and this is gonna be my first bike, signed up for BRC this Monday.

So a couple of quick questions. On my head lights and along the frame i have some slight rusting anyone know of a good product that will clean it up. Also, is there a way to turn off the head on a 95 GS500e it's driving me nuts. Thanks guys i hope to be more active here and in the riding community in general.


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oldmech

carbs may need a good cleaning. more importantly where is your front fender and fork brace? you may want those. worry about functionality first and rust and looks second. anyways welcome!!

Nightswitch

Hmmmm. Welp it didn't come with one didn't realize that and the fork brace didn't come with that either i guess those are a couple things I'm gonna have to look for now.

adidasguy

Turn off the head? You mean the headlight that is always on when the bike is on as per federal DOT regulations? I think not.

Chain: Clean it. kerosene and chain oil. But if in doubt, you can get a replacement chain & sprockets for $100 or less. If you have an OEM chain, it doesn't come off without breaking it or removing the swing arm. It doesn't have a master link. Might as well go for a new one. Safety first!

Check your brake pads. If worn, you can get really good used calipers with nearly new pads for $15-$20 from Pinwall cycle parts on ebay. Your calipers are probably as rusty as the rest of the bike. Easier and much cheaper to replace them than rebuild them and put on new pads. All are compatible through today for GS500's so buy 2009 or as new as you can get and with as low mileage as possible. Pinwall shows pictures of the pads to enable you to see how worn they are.

codajastal

Quote from: adidasguy on February 28, 2013, 08:11:43 PM
Turn off the head? You mean the headlight that is always on when the bike is on as per federal DOT regulations? I think not..
Its the LAW here too BUT I can turn mine off with the switch whenever I want :flipoff:
I am not interested in anything you have to say
Don't bother talking to me, I will not answer you

jacob92icu

Whenever I need to remove rust I use this stuff:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SEM-Products-39304-Sealer-Rust-Seal-Flat-Black-1-qt-Each-/390551724736?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item5aeeb262c0&vxp=mtr

Works really well. All you do is wire brush rust then you apply the acid and wait over night. In the morning you just rinse it off with water and paint over it when dry (it leaves a protective layer).

As for the fork brace and fender, you might want to invest in a brace for now, but you dont really need the fender. If your going to get a new one though I would suggest buying an airtech fender, they're sleek looking.

Welcome to the forum! :thumb:
I am into buying bikes that people have given up on and fixing them up!

RIP Patrick Lajko, I miss you man.

adidasguy

This stuff is not a paint aka "Rust Encapsulator" that seals in the rust.
This is a dissolver which actually makes rust float away. I used it on a chrome carrier for my TS-185. It has some rust creeping through in the welded joints. This removed it completely leaving clean, bare metal. Ready to polish and wax or apply clear coats. also good if you want to paint.
This product is adidasguy approved


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Nightswitch

Wow guys thanks for all the quick replies! I'll look into both the chemicals that were suggested. The rotor does not have any rust on it. I'm not sure if the PO pulled and polished them, or if they might be new. Also, i haven't gotten a chance to take a good look at the brake assemble.

I did go through the carbs following one of the videos on the wiki page, and i must say it was dirty. Tons of varnish, one of the pilot jets were completely block, 3 of the 4 little air holes on the air filter side were clogged what a mess. But, everything is cleaned out now so hopefully she will start up with out a hassle.

Another question on the Tank on the main fuel supply I see the main hose line going to the carb, but the PO has a second line coming off another barb with something shoved into it to plug it. Any ides? Also, the other barb on the fuel tank not on the main what is that ? I'll add a picture later if I'm not being clear enough. One more thing this part on my carb is broken what does it do. I'm assuming that it attaches to the air filter seeing as the air filter has a barb, and there is no hose connecting the two at the moment.

Again all answer and suggestions are appreciated

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gsJack

Quote from: codajastal on February 28, 2013, 10:43:31 PM
Quote from: adidasguy on February 28, 2013, 08:11:43 PM
Turn off the head? You mean the headlight that is always on when the bike is on as per federal DOT regulations? I think not..
Its the LAW here too BUT I can turn mine off with the switch whenever I want :flipoff:

Federal reg is not fed law, it depends on state law.  Here in Ohio it's not required by law so when my very old CM400A had a damaged alternator (goats in gstwins lingo) I put a switch on the handlbar for the low beam so I could run it in daylight with headlight off with dimmer switch down so I'd be getting some charge.  Could flick dimmer up to high beam if I felt the instant need for some light to get the attention of an oncoming threat.  Could turn on low if needed after dark with handlebar switch.
407,400 miles in 30 years for 13,580 miles/year average.  Started riding 7/21/84 and hung up helmet 8/31/14.

Nightswitch

Alright got the bike all put back together after I cleaned the carbs and she started with no choke (yay). But, know she starts and idles around 4K so i shut her off and adjusted the idle screw started her back up and idled around 1300-1500 after about 10 sec jump to 4500 rpm. Any ideas ?

Badot

#10
Quote from: Nightswitch on March 01, 2013, 09:47:29 AM
Alright got the bike all put back together after I cleaned the carbs and she started with no choke (yay). But, know she starts and idles around 4K so i shut her off and adjusted the idle screw started her back up and idled around 1300-1500 after about 10 sec jump to 4500 rpm. Any ideas ?

I'd check cable routing first (throttle and choke), especially if you can change the revs by turning the handlebars. That choke line gets me all the time, I usually end up with it wrapped around the breather hose.

If the bike is cold (as in not run for a few hours) it should not run well at all when starting without a choke (slow, weak idle at best)



I believe there are usually 3 barbs on the bottom of the gas tank, on fuel line, reserve line, and a third that drains the water from around the edge of the gas cap when it rains (hose runs through the gas tank and out the bottom). CA models should have another for a vent to hook up to the EVAP system


That broken T on the carburetor is the atmosphere vent. A broken one shouldn't affect rideability as some people don't even bother hooking up a tube to it. Improper positioning can cause a stumble at speed though.

BockinBboy

I'll +1 on Badot's comments.

Starting first time with 'no choke' and then later climbing to 4k... again similar thing after adjusting idle screw... this makes me think choke cable might be stuck.

Did you try turning the throttle once she was leveled out and warmed?... If the revs hung, that would point to an air leak for the cause of the surge in rpms.

- Bboy


Sonic Springs, R6 Shock, R6 Throttle Tube, Lowering Links, T-Rex Frame Sliders, SW-Motech Alu-Rack, SH46 Shad Topcase, Smoked Signals, Smoked LED Tailight, ZG Touring Windscreen

Nightswitch

Alright i went back through the cables and everything seems to be in order. I've reset the choke and, started the bike with the thorttle cable detached just to make sure and it still sits at 4-5k rpm. I remember when i was working on the carb that i set the air/fuel mixture screw to 3 1/2 turns out per what the video said. Would this make a difference.

Also, the hose that goes from the Air box to the Engine block i don't have one. Could this be causeing a vaccum issue I'm gonna run out and get some hose to put on there anyways but i was just wondering.

Thanks guys.

Badot

Quote from: Nightswitch on March 02, 2013, 08:57:32 AM
Alright i went back through the cables and everything seems to be in order. I've reset the choke and, started the bike with the thorttle cable detached just to make sure and it still sits at 4-5k rpm. I remember when i was working on the carb that i set the air/fuel mixture screw to 3 1/2 turns out per what the video said. Would this make a difference.

Also, the hose that goes from the Air box to the Engine block i don't have one. Could this be causeing a vaccum issue I'm gonna run out and get some hose to put on there anyways but i was just wondering.

Thanks guys.

The hose from the top of the cylinder head to the airbox just flows the gas fumes that gets by the piston rings back through the engine. Running your bike without it shouldn't make a difference, although most would suggest having some form of crude filter on there so nothing could potentially go back into the engine.

So long as you have your idle mixture screw within the proper range the RPM shouldn't change much. No way it should be that high just because of that.

I assume you have but I should probably ask, have you tried backing your idle screw off even farther?

From there, check to make sure the choke plungers are both fully seated and that the throttle butterflies are both all the way closed.

Nightswitch

Well i got some hose for it anyways. The idle mixture screw is backed all the way off, and it's still starting with high rpm's. I guess i will have to take the carbs back and go through it again.

bremsstrahlung.positron

congrats bro :) how much u got it for? Actually i'm a newbie from pakistan n want to have an idea if i was mugged over my 2000 model gs or not ;) good bikes here r
like a needle in a hay stack.

Nightswitch

Thank's i got this one for 700 on Craigslist .

bremsstrahlung.positron

cool. ride strong and ride safe and avoid the  :police: ;)

Paudie M

welcome. i wouldn't worry about the rust for now as thats just cosmetic. sort out the brakes. tires and essentials first. your high revs lead me to say the carbs need an overhaul. the carbs need all parts required as per the manual. thats the way it should be. replace the parts. clean out the carbs. set the float heights. change the oil and oil filter if needed. replace the spark plugs and set the gap correctly. the get yourself a manometer. check out baltimore gs's youtube page for instructions on how to sync the carbs. if everything is checked and set the bike should un fine. from cold the bike will need choke to start
Murphy's law what can go wrong will go wrong.....

You have that in small towns.......

The lowest form of wit is sarcasm...

A dog licks his ba@#s because he can......

Higgins13

I like the white rims, I want them lol
2005 GS500F
Jardine RT-One Exhaust
K&N RU-2970 "Lunchbox" Air Filter
46T Rear Sprocket
Dynojet Kit - Stage One
NGK Iridium Spark Plugs
Flush Mount Turn Signals
Fender Eliminator
Underglow Kit
Blue LED Gauge
Blue LED Parking Light
Blue HID Kit
Carbon Fiber Tank Protector
1/4" White Rim Stripes

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