Bi=xenon retrofit wiring question

[snowboarder202]

Hello i've been reading on this forum for a little over a year after buying my first bike a 2005 gs500f and have come up empty handed with this problem.
I purchased the sport bike retrofit kit from the retrofit source. After plugging everything in only the high beam would be on, even if the switch was on low, I followed the wires and on the relay harness there was a small connection placed in between the high and low wires.
I broke this connection and now the low beam works, but if i switch the light to high you hear the screen flip down but the light goes out. I put a small switch in between these two wires and it acted like the low/high beam switch on the handles.
I used a spare relay to try and solve this and connected 12v from the battery to 87, ground to 30, a wire tap from high to 86 and the low beam tap to 85. when i tested this the low beam works fine, flip the switch to high beam and it works, but when i go back to low the high beam stays on ( the screen doesn't go back up) unless i turn off the bike. I'm completely out of ideas on how to fix this and any help would be greatly appreciated.

[codajastal]

Photos, photos and more photos would be most helpful
Oh and welcome to the board

[weedahoe]

You didn't need everything Retrofitsource has. I know Matt @ TRS and he is a good guy but all you need is the projector, bulb and ballast. I did a retrofit on mine and both my high/low work but I am not using a harness to over complicate it nor a relay. I'm on my mobile but I will draw a diagram of how I did mine later tonight and upload it

[Janx101]

yargh!... i AM NOT A SPARKY! ... and its been ages since i was even messing with aftermarket driving lights on cars and trucks...

AND i could be right off track here... I think you have a SPST relay (Single Pole Single Throw) .. and you need a SPDT (Single Pole DUAL Throw) .. which has 87a added in

i think the Relay 'should be' wired as most light applications suggest 30 to battery, 85 to 'switch' , 86 to 'relay ground' then 87 to low beam and 87a to high beam .....

i think!!!!

this is my 'amateur but i figured it out myself years ago by testing and smoking up a lot of wires in the process' system 

but please let the electric head people confirm or deny this before you change things around 

[weedahoe]

Here is the rough drawing I did when I wired mine. Like I said, no harness or relay needed

Click the link for a larger size - https://p6qsmq.bn1.livefilestore.com/y1p7A2BxrBKtQAxeYyDZoA3Xfr2N2gM62OtOWQSPc4SRppxra6XT_R9k5d7b6hmrIoNTT8ZPnueHGem6KRYebdoKy0lejCnOqUG/IMG_20130224_202146_424.jpg?psid=1

[weedahoe]

So out of the OEM H4 headlight plug there are 3 wires, hi/lo/ground.

Take an H4 male socket from Ebay or use spade connectors and go from the low beam wire through a 50VDC diode (Radio Shack) to the 12VDC side of the ballast. The negative side of the ballast obviously goes to ground and the ballast connects to the bulb

Now as this point Im assuming you are using something like a D2S bulb and not a mechanical bixenon bulb

Take two wires from the high beam side and one goes to the mechanical shutter on the bixenon projector. There are two wires on this mechanical shutter. One is (+) and the other is (-). The purpose of the shutter is to allow more light out (AKA high beam) when it is energized. The other wire goes through another 50VDC diode and goes after the other diode on the low beam as in the picture.

Hope all this makes sense

[Janx101]

i would go with Weeds plan.. he has done it!! ..

but can anyone confirm deny my STSP STDP theory? even if its not suitable or required for this project?.... otherwise i'll be all up at 1am wondering?! 

[weedahoe]

You could use a relay to accomplish the same thing. You would still need diodes to prevent voltage back feed. The only thing it would do differently with a relay is allow voltage to be fed to the ballast directly from the battery versus the OEM headlight plug. However, adding a relay has that pro I just mentioned and the con would be youre adding an extra piece that is something went wrong later on in the wiring or relay, it is more to isolate and trouble shoot.

[snowboarder202]

Finally an update on this. I order a 10 pack of diodes of ebay for a couple bucks, soldiered one of them in the relay harness that came with the projector since it was already wired and up and boom Hi and low work like they were suppose to. All in all it was just a bad diode in the relay harness. I'll update with picture shortly

[snowboarder202]

As promised