Source for Special Tools, Workaround for Removing Rotor?

[twistit]

Looks like I'll be diving deep into my '97's motor and was wondering if there is a source other than Suzuki for the special tools to pull the rotor and clutch.  Anyone have a set they can lend me?  Anyone have a throw away drive and driven clutch plate so I can make a clutch basket lock?  Is there a workaround substitute for the slide hammer to remove the rotor?

[adidasguy]

Clymar has a way to remove the rotor with a rear shock bolt and a spacer. I did it and it works. Got that manual? If not , later can probably copy down the instructions. You also need a 22mm thin wrench.

as for clutch, you can remove the top plate and all the clutch plates without removing the whole thing. If all you want to do is clean it, then undo the 6 bolts and take the parts off.

Your profile does not have your location so it is hard for someone to know if they can help you without knowing where you are.

[twistit]

It would be a big help if you could jot down the Clymer instructions.

I'm splitting the cases and need to get the clutch disassembled.  I was hoping someone would have some old clutch plates I could make a holder tool with.

Clymar has a way to remove the rotor with a rear shock bolt and a spacer. I did it and it works. Got that manual? If not , later can probably copy down the instructions. You also need a 22mm thin wrench.

as for clutch, you can remove the top plate and all the clutch plates without removing the whole thing. If all you want to do is clean it, then undo the 6 bolts and take the parts off.

Your profile does not have your location so it is hard for someone to know if they can help you without knowing where you are.

[vasama]

I just split my case. For the rotor I used a 5" long M14 x 1.5 mm thread bolt. I bought it from a place called Mr. Metric, here in San Jose, California. Cost me 9 bucks. I also got a piece of brass to which I drilled a large enough hole for the bolt to go through (but stop at the head, of course). The brass was about an inch and a half thick, but the piece itself was pretty long, and heavy. A couple of strokes did it. Be very careful when this thing disengages, and have someone to catch it, or else it'll fall, and it is heavy, and you might damage one (or more) magnets (as I did...)

I had no problem removing the clutch. I simply placed a washer between the gear of the clutch and the primary gear. This was enough to prevent the clutch assembly from rotating. As for the large nut inside, after the clutch cover has been removed, I used a manual impact driver, bought from Harbor Freight for about 7 bucks (plus 4 dollars for the appropriate size socket -I think it was 27 mm)

Also, as a tip to you, after I removed the clutch it was time to remove the primary gear. I bought the 34 mm (I think) socket, and you'll remove it easier if you replace the clutch housing (no need to bolt it, just to engage the gear with the primary) and do the washer (or penny) trick again, to lock the gears and be able to loosen the primary gear nut, which is really, really tight - plan on using some sort of leverage for that.

Good luck

Mauricio