Signal Rotor FIXED!. Starting the engine that was drained...another problem

[adidasguy]

Pictures PLEASE!

[sledge]

I roughen up the shaft for better grip as if I was giving it a hand job with 1000 grit sand paper. The inner part of the rotor --- a finger job with 1000 grit. That little bit of roughness makes them lock together.

   

Just about the worse thing you can do.

Roughing up the surface of the taper will create high spots and reduce the amount of grip. Tapers need to be lapped together to obtain maximum contact and grip.

Probably why you were complaining about one coming loose a week or so ago.

See this vid for the technique.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bezP0s0NtLc

Do it this way, get a minimum of 75-80% surface contact between the parts, check the retaining bolt hasn't stretched, torque it up to manufacturers spec and it will never come loose 

[junk301]

I cannot get it at this time. will post in the evening..how long is that pin supposed to be. does it slide into the crank? if not it looks like I was punched into crank.

[Paulcet]

How about a pic?
I'm having a hard time figuring out how this happened. Did you use an impact wrench on the magnet rotor bolt while holding the 19mm wrench on the signal rotor?

[junk301]

yes paulcet. yes I did. I asked my friend to slap me in the face a few days ago.

[junk301]

http://s1253.photobucket.com/user/junk301/media/IMG_20130530_205730.jpg.html?evt=email_share

Sorry guys my phone is cranky. Won't let.me copy paste the image link for.blogs.. as.you can see its been chewed up a bit. I've been recommended by a member to reface the end then drill a hole and fit.it.with a.new pin. Thanks for the continued support!

[adidasguy]

You'll need someone skilled ar screw extraction. Get it out and you're OK.
The fact that the index pin is munched is not that big of a deal. It indexes the timing rotor so it is in the right place. It doesn't really hold anything. You should be able to glue it back in.
IMPORTANT: The surface of the shaft is munched. It MUST be absolutely flat so the rotor sits squarely there. NOTHING STICKING UP! grind any raised parts off.
I guess the underside of the rotor that sits on the shaft is all munched up, too. Get a replacement rotor. They are cheap.
It is important that the rotor turn as true as possible. Some thread lock in the flat surface when you re-install a new one will help insure it stays in place. Also thread lock on the bolt and do not over torque it.
The rotor only spins and does not touch anything. Not necessary to be bad-ass tight. Just tight so it doesn't come off.

[junk301]

that is the best news I've gotten all week. I already have a spare rotor and screw. going to visit a few machine shops today and show them a photo. if they sound confident I will bring it to them. one more thing. about the pin, is it where its supposed to be. it almost seems to me like it moved.. probably not but is that possible?

[adidasguy]

Pin goes in a hole. Hole was elongated. It can stoll go back right and get job welded in place. Others have done that with success.

[junk301]

I don't have a spare pin. well I do but its on my other crank..I'm not sure if I can take it out. will it cause any issues if I makeshift a pin?

thanks adidasguy. I'd buy you a few beers but o don't know where you are.

[The Buddha]

Remove the ignition plate before you start doing anything, the oil pressure sender as well.
Then lay the bike on the left onto a few car tires and left drill it. I doubt it in there with much tension on it. You may be helped by heating the crank with a hot air blower, cos that thing probably has loctite. And yes you need to get that locator pin placed there and welded as well.
Cool.
Buddha.

[junk301]

An update on my snapped screw situation. I dropped the bike at a machine shop that I was recommended to and they have done the following.:

1) They removed the snapped screw
2)They couldn't get the old pin out because it was dug into too deep, so they drilled a new hole 180 degrees in relation to the old pin.
3) They created another opening/window 180 degrees of the existing one on the advancer so that the timing advancer will stay in the exact same position

Does anybody think there will be a problem with this?

Cheers!!

[sledge]

Its a good fix  ........assuming they have got those holes drilled at exactly 180deg to the originals.

[junk301]

yup. looks good. It's turning true. I haven't mentioned this before but once I used the impact wrench on the flywheel to get it on the first time, it's been hard to hand crank the engine. I'm hoping that this is only due to no oil on those gears (as i turn the crank I can hear the gears turning)? Could snapping the screw of loosened something in the engine(timing chain or what not?). I can turn it by hand but its a lot more difficult than before.

[adidasguy]

I think you need some oil in there. The engine is not meant to go many turns without oil.
(see my latest video - I hit the rotor with an impact wrench for good measure, too.)

[junk301]

ohh where can I find your videos Adidasguy? yeah I feel like its a lack of oil.

[adidasguy]

ohh where can I find your videos Adidasguy? yeah I feel like its a lack of oil.

All are at   http://www.youtube.com/lajko1

Today's new video:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GxS5yZ44AHU

[junk301]

perfect! great video. Only one issue I'm having. Since the flywheel was already torqued to spec before, i feel that I may of over torqued it with the impact wrench. Can I loosen the flywheel without using a flywheel puller? I set the torque wrench at 90 ft/lbs and its only clicking.

[Paulcet]

I would leave it.  If it was way overtorqued, loosening it now won't help.  The damage is done, if any.  I would button it up and try it.

[junk301]

Even if I can loosen it with a flywheel puller? Ok ill close her up and start her up. I don't think it was overtorqued that much.