WTB: Generator Rotor

[HPP8140]

Might need #2 Rotor

Let me know what you have.

Sigh...

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[HPP8140]

Also looking for stator #1

Thanks

[weedahoe]

I have #1.

I also have have #2 but dont know how to remove it from the crank

[adidasguy]

I have #1.

I also have have #2 but dont know how to remove it from the crank

Haynes manual tells you using a bolt and a spacer. I posted it somewhere,
. At airport so have to wait if you want me to quote it.

[vasama]

Have #1, free - you pay post - Actually, I have this one for free, thanks to Adidasguy

[weedahoe]

I have #1.

I also have have #2 but dont know how to remove it from the crank

Haynes manual tells you using a bolt and a spacer. I posted it somewhere,
. At airport so have to wait if you want me to quote it.

Shoot me the info when you can as I have two cranks I need to remove them from

Have #1, free - you pay post - Actually, I have this one for free, thanks to Adidasguy

Excellent deal right there!

[Dizzledan]

To remove the rotor from crank, you can use the rear axle with a weight on it to make a sliding hammer. Put weight and washers on, thread axle in, and should be off in 2 pops. Make sure to work on a soft surface, the rotor will succumb to gravity, and if nothing is there to catch it, magnets will be a-flyin. Ask me how I know.

[adidasguy]

I'm finishing a video on how to do that.

36mm spacer made from cutting off some strong bolt.
Then a 19m x 1.0 bolt (I recall that's the threads, the same as the swing arm bolt which is the only bolt of that threads on a GS500).
Insert spacer. Hold rotor with a thin 22mm wrench. Screw bolt in like hell, careful not to cross thread, and off comers the rotor. Take the starter gear with it. A real beach if the starter clutch parts fall out.

To put on, insure everything is 100% spotless and dry. (I roughen the shaft a little with 600 grit sand paper. It is HARD. That grid does almost nothing but enough for a better friction fit). insure bolt is clean. Threadlock on the bolt NOTHING on the shaft or inner part of the rotor. MUST BE 100% DRY AND SPOTLESS!

Tighten to 110-130nm (that's newton meters. Convert if you have foot pounds). Hold with your 22mm wrench or as I do, lock the starter gears by sticking an allen wrench or bolt in the teeth (They're hard, no damage will be done). After tightening to spec, I hit it once with the Harbor Freight impact wrench for good measure.

Video will be posted soon. Shot it Saturday when tightening Suzi's rotor that came loose.

Sorry I have no spares. I did have 2 and recently sold them to members.

[HPP8140]

I hope it's not the rotor causing my charging issues. Stator puts out ~61V manual calls for >75

I already replaced the stator 15K miles ago. Hoping it's just burnt again from heat.

I did notice some of the epoxy started to fall off the rotor magnets. Is that ok if the magnets are still intact?

Not sure if it's worth buying a new rotor for $200 on a bike with 57K. Not sure how long engine will last.

[HPP8140]

That is my dilemma

Anyways, BIG thanks to vasama for mailing me a stator for FREE

[Drastik]

FWIW, I just re-epoxied my rotor because some of the epoxy was missing.  Not difficult to do at all.  I figured it was a good insurance policy in case one of the magnets decided to come loose later on.  PM me if you want details or pics.