HELP!!!!!!! going absolutely nuts idleing problem!

[adamcl550]

okay so im new to bikes and forums, my first bike and my first post.

I have a 2007 gs500f and i'm having a few problems so here we go.

first off the bike does not like to idle it will idle at 1300 and gradually go lower and lower until the bike stalls.

second the choke the second i put it on the bike stalls right away(probably my fault when i put them back together)

things i've done checked the valve clearance and sure enough 3 were off, so i ordered new ones put them one and thought that helped but it didn't.

next i read up the forums and saw something about a little o ring fair enough i though im not the first owner lets have a look, sure enough both were missing ran down to parts source picked up a couple tiny o rings and replaced them both , also cleaned the jets.

im still having these issues.

i find my self constantly playing with the idle screw witch at this point does not help

please help!!!!   

[Soloratov]

How do the plugs look? Stock air filter & exhaust? Will it idle at all, or if you give it some throttle can you get it to stay going?

[adamcl550]

How do the plugs look? Stock air filter & exhaust? Will it idle at all, or if you give it some throttle can you get it to stay going?

i just bought it a few months ago it looks like a custom exhaust i changed the plugs aswell not sure how long they've been in there but the were fouled but after i changed them no difference

[jacob92icu]

Pictures of the exhaust and air box would help. Could have put on some different air filter and some after market exhaust that messed up the air fuel ratio and the PO didnt rejet.

[adamcl550]

Pictures of the exhaust and air box would help. Could have put on some different air filter and some after market exhaust that messed up the air fuel ratio and the PO didnt rejet.

its the standard air box and its not a yoshi pipe or v & h i know that much. all i can say is its all chrome
im at work now will post pics later

[adamcl550]

how would i know if it was rejetted?

[jacob92icu]

I suppose you would have to take the carbs apart and check it out. I have never taken the GS carbs apart, but the jets should be right under the floats which is easy access through the float bowls. But if it is running terribly I doubt the PO new that he had to rejet so he just threw the exhaust on and air filter (maybe still dont know if yours has an after market one or not.)

[adamcl550]

I suppose you would have to take the carbs apart and check it out. I have never taken the GS carbs apart, but the jets should be right under the floats which is easy access through the float bowls. But if it is running terribly I doubt the PO new that he had to rejet so he just threw the exhaust on and air filter (maybe still dont know if yours has an after market one or not.)

i bought it from the suzuki dealer believe it or not ive taken the carbs apart and cleaned the jets id have to guess that he did rejet but i dont know how to be sure, does it say something on the jets? the carbs were taken apart one screw was changed and the 2 small o rings were missing

[jacob92icu]

Hmmm I am not a carb expert, and I have never been into the GS carbs, so I'll wait for the others to chime in and tell you how to check for a rejet.

[adidasguy]

Chrome exhaust is after market. Exhaust changes can affect things but not that much and not in the way you describe.

You had missing o-rings. Quite possibly you have other air leaks.
Possible locations are:
1. Carb caps & the o-rings
2. Carb connection to the intake boots (make sure seated correctly and tight)
3. If carb intake boots were ever taken off, they should have new o-rings. They get hard. Once removed, they don't seal well. New o-rings needed.
4. Airbox to carbs: that is a tricky one. If stock air box, I reach inside the air box to be sure the air box boots are properly seated on the carbs. Sometimes 4 hands help: one pair to seat the boots and the other person to tighten the bands. Air boxes tend to cave in in the middle and make things hard to properly connect to the carbs.
5. Missing air box drain hose - that causes an air passage that bypasses the air filter
6. Missing crank case vent to the air box - if that is off, the air box has another opening that bypasses the air filter causing things to be lean.
7. Choke: This just adds more gas to make it richer. It is not really a "choke" in the sense of old cars where it restricted the air. If choke makes it die, you might be running too rich. Choke on should just increase the RPM's on a properly running engine.
8. Check float heights with a clear tube on the carb bowl drain. maybe too high? Do you see gas coming out of the carb intakes and dropping into the air box? If so, floats too high or stuck open.
9. Vacuum line from carb to petcock. If missing, you have an air leak on one carb causing things to never get sync'd properly.

[adamcl550]

Chrome exhaust is after market. Exhaust changes can affect things but not that much and not in the way you describe.

You had missing o-rings. Quite possibly you have other air leaks.
Possible locations are:
1. Carb caps & the o-rings
2. Carb connection to the intake boots (make sure seated correctly and tight)
3. If carb intake boots were ever taken off, they should have new o-rings. They get hard. Once removed, they don't seal well. New o-rings needed.
4. Airbox to carbs: that is a tricky one. If stock air box, I reach inside the air box to be sure the air box boots are properly seated on the carbs. Sometimes 4 hands help: one pair to seat the boots and the other person to tighten the bands. Air boxes tend to cave in in the middle and make things hard to properly connect to the carbs.
5. Missing air box drain hose - that causes an air passage that bypasses the air filter
6. Missing crank case vent to the air box - if that is off, the air box has another opening that bypasses the air filter causing things to be lean.
7. Choke: This just adds more gas to make it richer. It is not really a "choke" in the sense of old cars where it restricted the air. If choke makes it die, you might be running too rich. Choke on should just increase the RPM's on a properly running engine.
8. Check float heights with a clear tube on the carb bowl drain. maybe too high? Do you see gas coming out of the carb intakes and dropping into the air box? If so, floats too high or stuck open.
9. Vacuum line from carb to petcock. If missing, you have an air leak on one carb causing things to never get sync'd properly.

thank you for your response!

1. i replaced the o rings underneath the caps already
2. checked all seems good!
3.no idea personally i have never taken them off id have to check the condition of them in a couple hours when i get home
4. pretty confident that they are on fine i put them on the carb before putting them back on the bike
5.all good, double checked that
6. i believe this is the hose that goes to the top of the air box, thats all good aswell
7. i think that it might be running rich it acts a little weird for the first 1/4 mile then the only problem is the idle.
8. thanks what i was thinking, do you know what size hose i should buy?
9.all good here.

[adidasguy]

Small, clear hose that fits on the drain. I think 1/8' ID.  Maybe 3/32' ID.  One foot is enough.

You can do the WD40 spray on things when it is acting bad. If you spray somewhere and the idle changes, that's where the problem lies.

You can remove the air filter and reach inside to see if the carb slides move up and down freely. Lift them with your finger and see if they quickly fall back down. also look for gas in the air box.

[adamcl550]

prefect sounds easy enough i will try try that tonight and report back tomorrow, thanks again for all the help 

[adidasguy]

Actually there is a little resistance for the slides falling back down - a little air resistance from the carb diaphragms and the air in the caps. But they both should freely fall down at the same rate, but it is not an instantaneous snap down.

[Gorilla]

Actually there is a little resistance for the slides falling back down - a little air resistance from the carb diaphragms and the air in the caps. But they both should freely fall down at the same rate, but it is not an instantaneous snap down.

im lucky to have you be nearby and helpful in case anything happens to me!

[adamcl550]

okay ladies and gentlemen, kids of all ages i believe the problem is solved so as i was riding back home from work i noticed the smell off gas soo right away i was thinking way to rich just like adidasguy said

"7. Choke: This just adds more gas to make it richer. It is not really a "choke" in the sense of old cars where it restricted the air. If choke makes it die, you might be running too rich. Choke on should just increase the RPM's on a properly running engine."

checked the float level and it was way to high see attached. but not only was it to high there was also a jet loose so the gas was way way to high.

so when i was using the choke i was flooding it and it would just die haven't had the chance to take it for a ride because its going to be raining here most of the day in Toronto but i started it after putting everything back together and let it run for about 10min and it ran great choke worked too

to sum it all up what i did was

checked the float levels
adjusted the float levels
and reinstalled a jet, and obviously tightened the other jets too

thanks for all your help much appreciated!!!

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[demonsavatar]

I had the same symptoms when I got my first bike 2 weeks ago! After a day or so of screwing around checking this and that it ended up being some gunk in the petcock.

I disassembled my petcock, cleared it out, got a new tank of gas, and off I went