Gs500 problems...won't start

[Snake2715]

your giving two right readings? which is left?

Also the coil test is in Kerry's post bottom of page 2 in this thread.




= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =

If those circuits look OK, carry out similar measurements on the ignition coils themselves, like so:



The "Primary" measurements should be between 3 and 6 ohms and the "Secondary" measurements should be between 18,000 (18K) and 30,000 (30K) ohms.

[cmat1120]

I fixed the typo now. From what I've researched it looks like I probably have valve issues on the right and ring issues on the left, maybe more. I think I'm going to check the coils after i fix the compression or when I'm waiting on parts or something cause they aren't much use if my compression is this bad. And I'm getting good sparks.

Does anyone know if I can get to the valves and/or the piston rings without taking the engine out of the bike?

[Snake2715]

Coils are right below the gas tank. a few minutes and you at them.

[Paulcet]

Yes, you can do valves and rings with the engine still in the frame.

[cmat1120]

Yes, you can do valves and rings with the engine still in the frame.

Cool, that's good news. Also I just realized that another likely possibility is that the cylinder's might be scratched up from the previous owner not having an air filter on the bike. If this is the case are there parts out there to bore up the gs500? Or could I replace the cylinder piece? I'm guessing I would just replace the whole thing with the fins coming off it(not sure what it's actually called). I was told the cheapest option would probably be to bore up since I'll most likely need new heads and rings anyways, but I can't find any piston heads or rings stock or bored up for the gs500. I basically just want to do whichever will be cheapest.

Also if someone could confirm that bad compression could cause my bike to not start(act the way it does) that would help too. Just with peace of mind lol.

[The Buddha]

Yes, you can do valves and rings with the engine still in the frame.

Cool, that's good news. Also I just realized that another likely possibility is that the cylinder's might be scratched up from the previous owner not having an air filter on the bike. If this is the case are there parts out there to bore up the gs500? Or could I replace the cylinder piece? I'm guessing I would just replace the whole thing with the fins coming off it(not sure what it's actually called). I was told the cheapest option would probably be to bore up since I'll most likely need new heads and rings anyways, but I can't find any piston heads or rings stock or bored up for the gs500. I basically just want to do whichever will be cheapest.

Also if someone could confirm that bad compression could cause my bike to not start(act the way it does) that would help too. Just with peace of mind lol.

No filter doesn't mean the cyl will be "scratched up"
The upper cyl wear just is higher than if there was a filter. It shows up as a lower engine life lower power compared to when it had good filtration, and higher oil useage more than anything else.
If your bike ran good, and 5 miles later wont run, its not cos your previous owner didn't run a filter.
Cool.
Buddha.

[The Buddha]

I found that three wire connector(the white one that was right in front of me lol). Measured the resistance there and I got 363 ohms for both connections.

Cool.  Sorry for the long detour, but at least you've eliminated another possibility. 

Test these hot. After the 45 second run ...
These can work fine when cold, and open up when hot.
Or is that short when hot .. .I dunno ... whatever it is, it wont run when hot.
Cool.
Buddha.

[The Buddha]

Also 45 sec maybe a valve just starting to hang open ... how is your valve adjustment ?

Cool.
Buddha.

[cmat1120]

oh ok, well I guess that's a good thing...maybe. I understand this engine will probably never run like new again, but I'll be happy if it just runs ok. I guess I just have to get in there and see what I find. I think I have one of those tools for checking valves so i'll do that, and inspect the piston rings and cylinders? Not sure what I'll be looking for, but ill try and post pics and describe everything on here. It doesn't look too hard with all the info on gstwins. Thank you for the help!

Also once I fix the compression issues I'll check that resistance again. It doesn't run even for those 45 seconds anymore so it doesn't get hot. Also one other thing I think may be bad right now is my previous problem with the vacuum system flooding gas probably caused gas to leak into the oil diluting it. That obviously doesn't help anything so an oil change and filter change are probable needed too. I guess the good thing I can take from this is I am learning a whole lot more about motorcycles than I ever thought I would haha.

[The Buddha]

oh ok, well I guess that's a good thing...maybe. I understand this engine will probably never run like new again, but I'll be happy if it just runs ok. I guess I just have to get in there and see what I find. I think I have one of those tools for checking valves so i'll do that, and inspect the piston rings and cylinders? Not sure what I'll be looking for, but ill try and post pics and describe everything on here. It doesn't look too hard with all the info on gstwins. Thank you for the help!

Stop. Trouble shoot a motor when its still in the frame and assembled. If you find it has low compression and bad leakdown, then yea rebuild it.
This problem of yours really sounds like the crank trigger. I have had it do similar things.
Cool.
Buddha.

[cmat1120]

So I was taking the engine apart and after getting to the point of taking the cams out, I realized that the instruction for checking the valves is done with the cams still in. Do I have to put them back in to check them? Also where exactly are the actual valves or what do they look like? I want to inspect them for carbon buildup and stuff. I've read some stuff about them sometimes just needing to be cleaned so I want to clean them if I can.

[Paulcet]

Do I have to put them back in to check them? Also where exactly are the actual valves or what do they look like?

Yes, you have to put the cams back in to check the valve clearance.  I know you have nothing else to do but work on your bike, but before you take it further, PLEASE go look at the videos in the Video Tutorial Thread: http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=58403.0 

[cmat1120]

Most of those videos(that were relevant) don't work, but I've been using the tutorials on gstwin, beergarage and the videos on baltimoreGS's youtube channel. Don't worry I'm not doing anything a tutorial doesn't explicitly tell me to do. I just made the mistake of following a head and cylinder removal tutorial, before the valve clearance one. My plan now is to continue the full disassembly, clean and inspect everything and then when I put it all back together I will check the valve clearance. So far everything is going nice and smooth.


One thing I could use some advice on: I need a cheap-ish torque wrench. From what i've read, the only reliable cheap torque wrench is one with the dial. I was wondering if someone knows of a specific wrench either online or at a store that I could buy. I want to minimize my cost here, but more so I want to be safe as far as not breaking any bolts or anything.

[Janx101]

cheapest torque wrench is one that a buddy will let you borrow for a little while! ...

i understand your need to budget the $$ .. generally though you pay for quality/accuracy .. buy the best you can afford at the time?!

knowing WHEN and HOW to use the thing is more critical for most situations 

[Kerry]

I need a cheap-ish torque wrench. From what i've read, the only reliable cheap torque wrench is one with the dial. I was wondering if someone knows of a specific wrench either online or at a store that I could buy. I want to minimize my cost here, but more so I want to be safe as far as not breaking any bolts or anything.

For my take on the subject, see [THIS OLD POST].  (Skip the first few paragraphs to get to the "torque wrench" bit.)

Oh, and you'll want to double-check those 9-year-old prices ... if they even sell the same models anymore. 

[cmat1120]

Thanks! I didn't even think of borrowing one. I'll probably try and do that. I almost have everything out, but I can't figure out how to get the head off. I keep getting stuck on the front studs on the left and right. I can't lift it up and over those. Is there a trick to this? lol

[cmat1120]

One thing I noticed is that all of the shims are 2.65. Is that the stock size?(if there is a stock size) It seems strange to me that a 23 year old bike would still have the stock shims. Maybe the valves are really out of whack? Also I haven't gotten the head off yet, but I was able to see the tops of the pistons and they are completely black.

[cmat1120]

Alright new issue due to my stupidity. I dropped one of those little cylinder things into the engine(hopefully the picture explains this better than my words). I have no idea how to get it out. It fell behind the timing chain guide(towards back of bike) and a magnet stick did not work. Is it even possible to get in there or something? Hopefully there's a way to fix this.

[Kerry]

Never been down there myself, but I can only assume that if you drop the oil pan you'll find the "little cylinder thing" sitting there waiting for you.

[jacob92icu]

Do not fret sir, anything dropped in there takes a straight passage to the bottom of the oil pan like Kerry said. Poop that bad boy off and your guide should be taking a bath in oil.