Update battery voltmeter

wolfs02shadow · August 01, 2013, 04:04:35 PM

Ok. I had my new battery tested its good and charged. I got a voltmeter gauge and hooked it up to the battery. The bike started right up went straight to the gas station that's only a street over. Like a second away. The meter read 12 volts at ideal and 14 volts while riding. Stop got gas and the bike did not want to turn over. Slowly turn like the battery was dead. Let off the switch the meter shows battery at 12 volts. That's only riding at a split second. So I roll it off and ride for another 30 min and the meter shows the bike holding good at 14 volts while riding and 12 at idle when stopped At lights. Pull up at home turn the bike off and the meter showing the battery at 12 but want turn over. So I say starter.

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Janx101 · August 01, 2013, 04:42:19 PM

errrr... iirc .. (been a few weeks) ... my 06F shows 12.8 - 13.2 at idle and builds to 13.8 - 14.2 at 4k (throttle held only while stopped) ..

with the new battery .. what brand? .. is it lead/acid or AGM or ?? ... have you done any longer rides since install? ... sometimes the new ones have charge but need a good hour or so ride/ charge up with proper charger before they get fully charged and 'settled in' ??

.. have you tested the charging circuit only to make sure its ok? ..

wolfs02shadow · August 01, 2013, 05:44:27 PM

The first battery I got was a sealed gel battery. My charger would show that it held a charge but I took it to be tested at auto zone and it showed bad. So I took it back to the dealer and traded for a acid filled. $20 cheaper. Put it in and it's doing the same thing. Put it on the charger and my charger showed good and charged. Took it to auto zone to be tested and it showed good. My meter shows the bike putting out 13 at 2000 rpm and 14 around 4000 rpm. Adidas suggest that I put a volt gauge on the bike to see what it does when it gets hot and it held at 14. I charged the battery again before I put the gauge on and rode to the store.

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Janx101 · August 01, 2013, 05:50:38 PM

fair enough then ...

not sure where along the path you are with thread info ...

connections? ... all the wires and connectors bolted down clean and snug on both the battery and starter? .. crud coated or loose connections do make a difference!!!

Paulcet · August 01, 2013, 07:25:15 PM

What voltage shows on the meter when you are trying to start? It should drop to 10v or even less. If it remains around 12, the starter is not getting all the power it needs. I think Toogoofy had a similar problem... Think it was a loose bolt on the starter.

wolfs02shadow · August 01, 2013, 07:41:54 PM

When I put a full charge battery in its starts right up. The meter drops to about 10 volts. But let the bike run a few min turn it off then try to start again it will drop to as Low as 3 volts thurm the switch off the battery goes back to 12

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Paulcet · August 01, 2013, 07:44:05 PM

Then I suppose if the battery is really good, the starter has an intermittent short, or something is locking the rotor.

Janx101 · August 01, 2013, 08:53:06 PM

hrm .... vague memory from last month?... think it was Addy sayin.... right hand handlebar wire/switch cluster .. can get hit/bumped and shorts out intermittently? ... check the guts of the RHS switch cluster and associated wiring .. just in case its bad connection there?!?

Paulcet · August 01, 2013, 09:01:27 PM

Don't go barking up that tree. There be Drop Bears up there!

Any shorts in the RHS would cause other issues or blown fuse.

Janx101 · August 01, 2013, 09:17:47 PM

even if just the starter button? ... was just thinking where all the wiring associated with starter goes to? .... if it was a short in the starter wouldnt it also then blow the fuse? .... just askin

wolfs02shadow · August 02, 2013, 02:25:58 AM

What's getting me is that when you first crack it its fine. Run a minutes then you get the voltage drop. If there's a short or the starter relay wouldn't it click out. It's turning over slowly and ill stop. Trying it again with each time of trying to crank it more and more drop in volts. Then back to 12. Let it sit till the next day. Crank fine and all over again. Thanks all

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Paulcet · August 02, 2013, 05:20:00 AM

Not sure what you mean by "wouldn't it click out". But if you mean "wouldn't the relay disengage when the voltage drops?" then yes, your are describing the "drop out" or "holding" voltage of the relay. I would have guessed it would be 5 volts, but maybe it is 3.

Any way, it's Ohm's Law and its corellaries: you have short or locked rotor when hot. When cold, the condition is not there. (Assuming the battery is not failing when hot.)

Oh, and the starter is not fused.

BockinBboy · August 02, 2013, 06:31:55 AM

Just thought I'd put it out there, but... my experience says 12V is not enough to start the bike... minimum mine has ever started was at 12.6V, and that BARELY turned over and the bike was still a little warm...

- Bboy

wolfs02shadow · August 02, 2013, 12:04:30 PM

Sorry if I didn't clarify but the gauge I put on the bike has only the numbers 8 volts 10 12 14 etc. but when I put my meter to the battery it does show like 12.68. Or 12.86 can't be sure of the top of my head. When you say stuck rotor do you mean the rotor that turns around the stator.

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Update battery voltmeter