Slipping clutch?

FreshGroundPepper · August 13, 2013, 09:31:29 AM

I see! Well it seems that would be the first thing I must do then! (I have checked/tried ideas from adidasguy and others and everything seems okay).

What kind of prices am I looking at here? I've looked online and while I can do some minor repairs, this seems way out of my league.
And is this something that will have to happen immediately or can it wait until the end of the season (another month or two)?

JAS6377 · August 13, 2013, 09:36:34 PM

Well, if your valves are tight to the point where it's that noticeable, I wouldn't ride it too much for fear of burning a valve. If you're relatively mechanically inclined, checking the clearances isn't that hard. You just pop the top off and use a feeler gauge (got mine for around $10 at the local auto parts store). Suzuki specs are .03-.08mm all around. GsJack and a few other twinners go up to .13mm on the exhaust valves because of their tendency to tighten up.

This will help get you started: http://gstwin.com/adjust_valves.htm

gsJack · August 13, 2013, 10:07:19 PM

If the engine has cold compression there are no valves too tight and no big hurry to check them before season is over. A quick compression check only takes a few minutes on a naked, a bit longer on a GSF. A thumb over the hole and crank check would satisfy me in this case. Not suggesting regular valve checks should not be made, if a GS exhaust valve is run at the minimum Suzuki clearance spec too long valve life will be shortened. Running the exhaust valves at the wider .08-.13 mm spec can actually eliminate their tightening up.

In the meantime the OP can work on his positive shift techniques and his choke usage techniques and maybe even an idle adjustment to keep it running without choking it much too long.

FreshGroundPepper · August 13, 2013, 10:27:11 PM

Quote from: JAS6377 on August 13, 2013, 09:36:34 PM
Well, if your valves are tight to the point where it's that noticeable, I wouldn't ride it too much for fear of burning a valve. If you're relatively mechanically inclined, checking the clearances isn't that hard. You just pop the top off and use a feeler gauge (got mine for around $10 at the local auto parts store). Suzuki specs are .03-.08mm all around. GsJack and a few other twinners go up to .13mm on the exhaust valves because of their tendency to tighten up.

This will help get you started: http://gstwin.com/adjust_valves.htm

Awesome. I have actually spent a good deal of today watching videos (including both THIS and THIS thanks to this site). I suppose I was more concerned with actually finding the correct size shims and having to buy a set just for the 0-4 I need.
I can certainly go find the gauge set tomorrow and get into the bike.

Quote from: gsJack on August 13, 2013, 10:07:19 PM
In the meantime the OP can work on his positive shift techniques and his choke usage techniques and maybe even an idle adjustment to keep it running without choking it much too long.

Pending at least a decent result from my check I will do this ^^^ until I can find decent shims.

2 things about the idle: if it's around 1200 now, what can I set it up to without it being dangerous/obnoxious/gas hoggy? And I am to run it for a while to warm it up before I change it right?

mjj4 · August 14, 2013, 05:31:06 AM

Quote from: Twisted on August 13, 2013, 04:23:36 AM
Quote from: mjj4 on August 13, 2013, 03:23:03 AM
I never recommend leaving your bike idling on choke at 3k! I start my bike up on choke and set it to 1500rpm then ride for a couple of minutes then turn it off.

The GS500 manual actually states full choke at around 3000rpm for 30 secs.

Starting a cold engine and leaving it idling at 1500rpm is more sympathetic than starting it and leaving it at 3000rpm from cold. Engine wear is increased dramatically when cold and simple things like warming up the engine properly and gently can prevent a lot of wear.

gsJack · August 14, 2013, 07:09:45 AM

I bought individual shims from a local Suzuki dealer starting about 14 years ago and they were $5 each but were up to $13 each last time I bought one or two a few years ago. Some here have found dealers that would just exchange them free. If you can't find them many here have bought them online from:

http://www.newmotorcycleparts.com/motor_parts/valve_shims.html

I can't imagine setting up the idle speed a bit having any noticeable affect on gas mileage. I've got 60 mpg overall average on my 97 and 02 GSs for 14 years and 175k GS500 miles. I've always readjusted my idle speed every spring and fall, idle speed falls off as weather gets cold in the fall and speeds up as weather warms in the spring and I just reach under the carbs while sitting on the bike at a stop and adjust it when needed.

FreshGroundPepper · August 14, 2013, 07:53:08 PM

Well thanks a lot seattle weather. I didn't have the cylinder head cover off or anything.

The current state of my bike:

guess ill have to come back tomorrow

BockinBboy · August 14, 2013, 08:03:45 PM

Oh my... Another seattleite. You need to venture over to the GS500 bike cave in west Seattle... Owned and operated by gstwins member adidasguy himself.

- Bboy

FreshGroundPepper · August 14, 2013, 09:40:46 PM

There's quite a few Seattle GS owners huh? Shame I don't see them on the road much, if at all.

So odd question: How does one put the tank down? I was about to set it down but it sit on one end while the other was directly on the petcock. I set one end up on the curb but it still didn't work so I ended up putting it on it's side...

Also, I'm quickly realizing I'm going to need help with the math with the whole shim ordeal. Not that I don't trust my arithmetic education, but this is something I could easily mix up and be unhappy about.

JAS6377 · August 14, 2013, 10:24:48 PM

Well, what are your current clearances and shim sizes, and what are your desired clearances?

I'm about to tackle another valve check this weekend, so you're not alone lol.

And as far as putting the tank down, I generally set down towels and foam, and roll up another towel to lean it forward off of the petcock.

FreshGroundPepper · August 14, 2013, 10:56:42 PM

Well as the the weather stopped me, I was just to the point of measuring but not actually there yet. I'll finish up and know tomorrow after work.

As far as desired. I suppose since they say .03-.08 and I'm making an adjustment now, I'd like the intakes to be around .08. And since my exhaust might be the cause of this whole issue anyway AND it seems they tend to run hot, I'd say I'd like them around .1-.13 like some of the members here have.

JAS6377 · August 15, 2013, 07:37:20 AM

Sounds like a plan to me. Whenever you get those numbers, post them up and we'll help you figure out what size shims you need.

FreshGroundPepper · August 15, 2013, 06:12:50 PM

something is uhhhhhh.... wrong.

The two intake valves could fit the lowest shim (.03) but not he next (.05) so I guess that's still in spec, but needs a change. The right exhaust could fit .03 but not .05 so same....

The left exhaust couldn't fit the lowest... it also looked like this:

(same one but with flash just in case)

I couldn't get the shims out to see what size they were as I have to go have dinner with a friend but I'll either do that when I get back or tomorrow...

adidasguy · August 15, 2013, 08:22:28 PM

What does it look like under that journal cap? I wonder if there is oil blockage to that end and it is wearing things out from lack of oil and running hot?

FreshGroundPepper · August 15, 2013, 09:45:24 PM

Is that wearing? Would even changing the shim help or is it something else? I can get a WAY smaller shim and it will be okay I hope. The rest, I just have to pop the shims out and give them a new one and it's good... but that one...

FreshGroundPepper · September 02, 2015, 04:13:04 PM

I realize this is 2 years old but I'm following up on old posts to tie up loose ends. There's nothing I hate more than researching a problem online only to find the OP of some thread has the exact problem but never followed back on what fixed it. Anyway...

In my original post I mentioned 2 problems: one was the slipping clutch: Yes this problem went away as I became better at riding and changing gears. I was just inexperience as I posted this not but a few months after I got my (first!) bike.

The second problem was much more serious but a relatively common "break" with fix: it was just tight exhaust valves. I did the valve shim change and everything worked.

Evidently (this will be obvious to the experienced riders), I had to have the choke on to keep the bike revved up because the exhaust valves were bogging down the engine. At normal idle it couldn't let out the exhaust out fast enough. That coincides with my issue in another fact that if you're bike is sufficiently warm but you still have the choke on and you pull the clutch in, it will die. Not being experienced enough, I wasn't sure what was going on. Turns out just a valve shim tuneup was all that was needed.

News:

Slipping clutch?