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bleeding brake issues

Started by LMT GS500, October 04, 2013, 03:52:35 PM

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LMT GS500

Sorry guys need help again.
had my brakes off to clean them and replaced all the seals. also flushed out the brake lines to get rid off any gunk. went to refit everything back to the bike but when it came to bleeding them it seems like im getting nowhere! and its the same with front and rear. filled up the reservoirs and opened up the bleed screws on the calipers but when i press the brakes nothing. fluid in the reservoirs stay at the same level.
any ideas why its no going through the system? shouldnt be clogged because i cleaned everything plus the master cylinders.

Old Mechanic

Close the bleeder and pump the brake a few times, then open the bleeder and see if you get any flow. If nothing after several tries, you may have brake hoses that have collapsed internally.

regards
Mech

knowles

did you use new banjo bolt washer (crush washers)?
1989 GS 500EK

slipperymongoose

Quote from: Old Mechanic on October 04, 2013, 05:44:16 PM
Close the bleeder and pump the brake a few times, then open the bleeder and see if you get any flow. If nothing after several tries, you may have brake hoses that have collapsed internally.

regards
Mech

Yeah you need to tighten the nipples up and pump the brakes, unless your using a one man bleeder kit.
Some say that he submitted a $20000 expense claim for some gravel

And that if he'd write a letter of condolance he would at least spell your name right.

RichDesmond

Sometimes it's really difficult to get the fluid flowing. A Mity-Vac is a huge help with that. I still prefer doing the final bleeding the standard way, but the Mity-Vac is worth it's weight in gold for the initial part.
Rich Desmond
www.sonicsprings.com

007brendan

loosen bleed screw, squeeze brake and hold, tighten bleed screw, release brake, repeat.
"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

fetor56

Use clear hose on the bleed nipple so u can see what's happening & have the hose end in old brake fluid,in glass jar.As u pump the brake(nipple open) u should see the fluid moving through the clear hose.It's tricky with the GS at first but u get the hang of it.
Also helps to push the fluid through the line with a syringe & have the bleed nipple on the banjo bolt but that's another story.

LMT GS500

yeh, im using a clear hose; basically following the manual step by step. tried everyones suggestions with no success. my next step i guess would be to take everything off and try topping them with fluid and work my way towards the calipers. I really hope its not a collapsed hose :( i'm reusing the banjo washers. would that really make much of a difference? its hard to come by parts where i am.

007brendan

On my rear brake, the bleed passage was blocked with crud.  I noticed it when I took it off to clean and paint it.  I used a pin to reach in there and scrape it out.
"Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement."

slipperymongoose

Quote from: LMT GS500 on October 05, 2013, 06:38:21 AM
yeh, im using a clear hose; basically following the manual step by step. tried everyones suggestions with no success. my next step i guess would be to take everything off and try topping them with fluid and work my way towards the calipers. I really hope its not a collapsed hose :( i'm reusing the banjo washers. would that really make much of a difference? its hard to come by parts where i am.

Im guessing a lot of air is now in the lines so be patient. Close the nipples, squeeze the brakes a dozen or so times then squeeze them on again and hold as you open the nipple. It'll take a while and when it does start to come out remember to keep your fluid topped up.
Some say that he submitted a $20000 expense claim for some gravel

And that if he'd write a letter of condolance he would at least spell your name right.

sledge

Do it with the engine running, the vibes agitate the fluid and help to prevent air bubbles becoming lodged.

slipperymongoose

A rare moment if agreeance with the above poster.
Some say that he submitted a $20000 expense claim for some gravel

And that if he'd write a letter of condolance he would at least spell your name right.

fetor56

Quote from: LMT GS500 on October 05, 2013, 06:38:21 AM
yeh, im using a clear hose; basically following the manual step by step. tried everyones suggestions with no success. my next step i guess would be to take everything off and try topping them with fluid and work my way towards the calipers. I really hope its not a collapsed hose :( i'm reusing the banjo washers. would that really make much of a difference? its hard to come by parts where i am.
I see no real problem reusing banjo washers if your stuck....it's not recommended,but i'v done it on other bikes.

DrtRydr23

Try a reverse bleed.  You will need some other supplies to get it done, but it should work unless there is a massive leak in the system.  See below:

1997 GS 500E, Black:  Fenderectomy, Superbike bars, progressive springs, Cobra F1R slipon, short stalk turn signals. - SOLD

2008 SV650, Blue, K&N in airbox, otherwise stock

andymach23

Hi,

I put a new brake line on my bike and tried everything to bleed it, including a reverse bleed using a syringe kit. I had fluid flowing OK but the lever kept going back to the bar.

What worked in the end was cracking the banjo bolt open slightly at the master cylinder and pulling the lever and tightening, before releasing the lever. Did this a few times and got pressure back. There was trapped air at the master cylinder.

For good measure I also cracked the banjo bolt at the caliper and did the same, then finally bled normally using the bleed nipple.

Cheers.




RichDesmond

Quote from: LMT GS500 on October 05, 2013, 06:38:21 AM
yeh, im using a clear hose; basically following the manual step by step. tried everyones suggestions with no success...

Except mine. :)  Seriously, the Mity-Vac will make short work of it. They're not that expensive, really worth it IMO.
Rich Desmond
www.sonicsprings.com

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