EGR or WHAT EVER

[Hiboy53]

I'm in the process of replacing a leaking head gasket on my 2008.
While I've got the engine apart I'd like to do a few changes:

1. Remove the "EGR" valve ( if that what it is) and hoses....
    Has anyone done this before 
    Will this cause any problems with engine performance..

2. I'd like to replace the factory air-box and filter with a K&N lunch box.

3. Re-jet the carbs.

4. Do the timing advance.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

"Still Crazy"



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[adidasguy]

Yes. That is the PAIR system.

1. Remove it
2. Plug the fitting off of the T from the right side of the carbs with a small nipple
3. There is an extra hole in the air box. Plug that hole just above the drain with a big nipple.
4. Buy a pair of PAIR block off plates. You need those to plug the goes in the cylinder head after you remove the PAIR attachments just below the exhaust headers.


Timing advance only works on 89-2002 models. Ignition control box is simple on those. 2004+ has a smart box that adjusts timing based on throttle position and what gear you're in and engine RPM.

[radodrill]

1) That PAIR system simply pumps fresh air into the exhaust to fool the emissions sniffers; removing it and capping the ports on the engine and vacuum line will not degrade performance.

2) putting in a lunchbox = win, but needs a rejet

3) rejet = win as the bike is lean from the factory

4) the newer bikes with the PAIR also have an ecu, so the timing advance is a no-go

Are you keeping the stock exhaust or going aftermarket?  With a stock exhaust and K&N drop-in I was running 20/60/142.5 on the jets and it ran extremely well; maybe a shade under ideal mixture.  I just put on a Vance & Hines can with a set of swedged out stock headers and she sounds amazing; stepped the jets up to 20/62.5/145 as there was a lot of hesitation with the previous jetting, now she seems to run good but I still have to put her through her paces to see if I need to go a bit bigger on the main.

[Hiboy53]

Thanks to everyone for the replies... They are a big help.

I'll be getting rid of the PAIR system for sure, doing the lunch box and jet change.

Thanks for the heads up on the timing.  I noticed the difference between the older 1990 and the 2008 when I took the cover off to check the camshaft timing.  I found the throttle position sensor on the carbs and the ECU after I wrote the post.

Are the carb jets, needles & washers the same throughout all years..??  Is Suzuki a good/the best source for them ..??

As far as the exhaust goes... I'm leaning towards replacing the whole system and clean-up the rear end:
-  Get rid of the passenger pegs and brackets.
-  Re-route the exhaust to suit.
-  Solo style seat.
-  Bobbed fender and shorter tail lights.

The rear end clean-up will be the second phase of the project.

For now I'm busy changing the front end:
-  Early "clip-on" bars.
-  Progressive springs in the fork tubes.
-  Clear signal lights.
-  Clear diamond reflector head light.
-  Louder horn.

And doing the head gasket...  What a pain in the "butt".  Got a great deal on this bike last spring and thought it was going to be reliable steady transportation to and from work... Three ruined pairs of pants later and I parked it.  Ran the 1990 for a while then finished the season on my 750 Katana.


"Still Crazy"

[radodrill]

For the 01+ models Suzuki went with a 3-jet carb; earlier models only had 2.  These are Mikuni carbs, so just buy the right series Mikuni jets; many dealers will actually have a large assortment in stock.  The GS500 rejetting wiki page states the correct series of jets

The passenger peg mounts are actually welded to the frame and the right peg mount has mount for the exhaust hanger bracket.  I'd stay away from that unless you're doing a frame up build and can paint/powdercoat the frame after making the appropriate modifications.

Have you decided what you're going to do for the horn?  I just put on a dual trumpet air horn system.

[Weedy64]

Bringing it back to the top.

Why is advancing the timing on a newer model bike a no-go?  The principles are the same (slotting the backing plate) and when I slide the plate in opposition to the rotating toothed wheel the idle goes higher, in my book that means the static timing is being advanced.

In actual bike operation does the TPS (throttle position sensor) on the carbs retard the timing?

Ive stripped all emissions stuff and blocked the pair openings with plates to avoid exhaust popping.  Its not really a question of if it works, the bike runs great (VH, Lunchbox, Jets, Ignition Advance) just wondered if it was retarding in use.  I havent thrown a timing light on it.